13 replies to this topic

[JackF]

I'm after a little of tmf's technical know-how today. I hope you will all bare with some rambling!

I have what I can only explain as clutch slip - when travelling in 3rd or 4th gear and then accelerating, the revs increase rapidly but the car does not gain speed or move like the wheels are being driven. Backing off the throttle the revs decrease. Start again and it will more often that not, not do it again. Until i come back to the start.

I have noticed this get a little worse over the last few weeks, but I think it only happens when the car is warm. I may be a young driver, but this is not me still applying clutch peddle pressure while accelerating.

With the car stationary and handbrake on, 1st gear engaged, as I slowly release the clutch peddle the car tries to stall. Which to me, a novice, would indicate that clutch is working correctly ie, no slip.

My dad has suggested the oil seal has given up by the clutch. But I would see oil dripping from the drain hole I think? And would cause the problem in all gears?

Could this be a worn clutch/plate? Lack of fluid? I'm not the most clued up on clutches and gearboxes, but willing to listen and learn. Any pointers in the right direction?

Thanks again, Jack.

[carbon]

The symptoms you describe all point towards clutch slip.

 

Could be worn, or oil getting onto it from the crank oil seal. Either way you will need to replace the clutch plate, and would be worth fitting a new crank seal at the same time if there is any sign of oil getting onto the clutch plate.

[JackF]

The symptoms you describe all point towards clutch slip.
 
Could be worn, or oil getting onto it from the crank oil seal. Either way you will need to replace the clutch plate, and would be worth fitting a new crank seal at the same time if there is any sign of oil getting onto the clutch plate.

I'm glad someone else thinks the same as me, maybe it's time to pull the engine up and have a look...

[GraemeC]

Age of car? What engine? Standard or modified?

If pre-verto it could be the diaphragm getting weak

Edited by GraemeC, 12 August 2013 - 06:52 PM.

[carbon]

Good point Graeme, and definitely one to look out for when the clutch is out.

 

I was getting clutch slip on my 1275 a few years back, then found that a previous owner had used the green diaphragm spring from a 998...

[GraemeC]

Just replaced an orange diaphragm in my 1380 GT for exactly the same symptoms. I'd already fitted a clutch plate and thought the spring would be fine. Annoyingly I was wrong!

[Cooperman]

It sounds like a clutch change is in order together with a new 'red' seal (primary gear seal).
Buy a decent quality one from someone like Mini Spares and come back on here for any advice you might need on changing it.
You will need a flywheel puller as well.

[A-Cell]

Is it adjusted properly? Try that first. If it is Pre Verto there are 2 adjustments.

[JackF]

Thanks to all who replied. It's an 84' City E, however a lot has changed and I'm not sure about the engine, other than it's a 998.

This leaves me in a dilemma as I am currently bench building a new engine, which has just been balanced, but theres still a long way to go.

Looks like I'm buying my sencond clutch kit and oil seal in as many months.

My dad should be back off his holiday soon, I will report back and if anything has changed.

 

stupid question - other than killing a dying clutch, would I be doing any further damage if I was to continue driving like this for a few weeks?

[KernowCooper]

If its slipping then what happens is you get heat build up, and the surface of the flywheel develops small heat cracks and makes more work, but if you drive it carefully and don't give it lots of power in the higher gears and drop down through the box then if its not slipping them you wont get the heat build up.

[JackF]

Right, so this coming monday I start an apprenticeship, meaning my car needs to be ready.

 

I am planning to attack this problem starting tomorrow.

 

A-cell says that there are adjustments available on the preverto clutch, which is what I have. Could anyone explain these too me, how and where?

 

If this makes no difference - clutch change. Replace clutch and pressure plate along with the primary oil seal i guess. This will be my first clutch replacement, and I will be doing it with the engine in the car. Other than a flywheel puller (that I should have) is there anything else I need and do you knowledgeable folk have any tips?

[GraemeC]

2ft+ breaker bar and 1.5" AF socket
Preferably proper tool for seating rear crank seal, although can be done with tape on the primary gear splines if you're careful.

[KernowCooper]

Clutch adjustment is 0.50mm on the top adjuster arm to nut clearance and fully press pedal down (someone else to press) and you slacken off the overthrow nuts wind inner in until it touches the casing, come off pedal and wind inner nut in one flat and lockup.

 

But thats not going to be your problem.

Edited by KernowCooper, 05 September 2013 - 12:28 AM.

[JackF]

After the long struggle removing all the wok bolts and pulling the flywheel, oil on the clutch was present. Replaced oil seal with minispares part, along with a complete new clutch kit.