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Methods For Body Restoration.


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#1 Stu.

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 02:17 PM

I've had a good look around here and the web generally to try and find a sound method for build up treatment on panel rust repairs, under body, inside of new panels etc. It seems quite apparent that it comes down to individual preference and cost / time etc.

 

I wonder if you guys with experience and results could let me know whether the following would be suitable for the areas I've titled. I am not too bothered about finishing as I will be sending Ruby off to the paint shop once she is ready, but am very keen to ensure I provide a good level of protection in the paint prep and be sure that what I do would be acceptable for the paint shop when I hand her over.

 

I understand that the paint shop will prep her anyway, and I might drop in to have a word to make sure I don't apply anything that would cause them trouble, so here goes - 

 

Treatment of localized rust and panel repairs.

 

1. Flap disc to expose bare metal and extent of rust to area.

2. Wire wheel to remove surface rust and in pitted areas.

3. Ball pin hammer out any raised areas and create minor indent to accept filler.

4. Apply rust converter.

5. Apply etch primer.

5. Apply seam sealer.

7. Apply 90% Zinc primer.

8. Apply filler and rub down.

9. Apply etch primer.

10. Apply stopper and fine sand.

11. Apply build up primer to cover protect until paint shop.

 

Treatment of new panels reverse / hidden sides.

 

All work to be done before fitting panel and no application to weld flanges etc unless Etchweld.

 

1. Remove manufacturers primer.

2. Apply etch primer.

3. Apply 90% Zinc primer.

4. Apply under-seal top coat.

 

Treatment of new panels face side following fitment and welding.

 

1. Remove manufacturers primer.

2. Apply etch primer.

3. Apply 90% Zinc primer.

4. Apply filler where required and rub down.

5. Apply seam sealer.

6. Apply etch primer.

7. Apply stopper and fine sand.

8. Apply build up primer to cover protect until paint shop.

 

Treatment of under body, arches, sills etc.

 

1. Fully de-grease and remove road grime.

2. Flap disc to expose bare metal and extent of rust to area.

3. Wire wheel to remove surface rust and in pitted areas.

4. Apply rust converter.

5. Apply seam sealer.

6. Apply etch primer.

7. Apply 90% Zinc primer.

8. Apply under-seal top coat.

 

Treatment of sub-frame and cast components.

 

1. Fully de-grease and remove road grime.

2. Flap disc to expose bare metal and extent of rust to area.

3. Wire wheel to remove surface rust and in pitted areas.

4. Apply rust converter.

5. Apply etch primer.

6. Apply 90% Zinc primer.

7. Apply Smoothrite or similar product 2 coats.

 

Treatment of non-accessible cavities.

 

1. Blow through with compressed air.

2. Apply waxoyl or similar product.

 

 

 

Products I would like to use.

 

Rust converter.

Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. 

 

Etch Primer.

Bilt Hamber Etchweld.

 

Seam Sealer.

Rustbuster SIKAFLEX

 

Zinc Primer.

Bilt Hamber Electrox 90%

 

Filler

U-POL Fantastic.

 

Stopper.

Don't know yet.

 

Hi Build Primer.

Bilt Hamber Highbild

 

Underseal Top Coat.

Bilt Hamber Dynax UB.

 

Cavity Treatment.

Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50.

 

 

No I don't have shares in Bilt Hamber, but have read good reports, plus there are benefits in using the same manufacturer with compatibility and such. I guess its not the cheapest but my umble like experience has shown me time and again that there's a reason why stuff is cheap.

 

I would really appreciate some comments on whether you think this strategy for body prep is suitable, of if I'm way of the mark.

 

Thank you in advance.

 

Stu.


Edited by Stu., 09 August 2013 - 02:20 PM.


#2 sonikk4

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 02:31 PM

The only thing i will say about surface rust is if it has pitted the metal then you need to seriously consider chopping it out and replacing with fresh metal.

 

Nothing worse than seeing rust bubble through again a year down the line. Nothing cures rust apart from replacement with fresh metal.

 

The rest of your list is comprehensive however i would suggest you discuss what surface work you do other than the replacement of panels / rust etc with the paintshop. They may want to do all of the surface prep themselves.

 

If you are leaving the car outside in primer then any moisture will go through the primer, if its stored in a dry garage then you maybe ok but if we get any humid weather then you may suffer from moisture.

 

If you have to fill any areas then you will need to remove all paint local to the area to be filled.

 

Don't use etch primer on filler, just on bare metal.



#3 Stu.

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 02:49 PM

All noted Neil thank you. Regarding the primer, is there any application which will provide a moisture barrier before going to paint apart from rattle cans. As is usual, the body resto will take me about a year, so the first areas I do would be 1 year old when I take her to the shop. Is the answer simply to cover the primer with rattle cans to seal ?

 

Ruby's in my garage so out of the rain but obviously open to moisture and condensation.

 

Thanks.



#4 Daz1968

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 04:52 PM

Surface rust is not a problem as long as that's all it is, a 3m pad will remove it. Problems arise when surface rust is actually from the other side of the panel and then it must be cut out to be effective. A common first coat is an epoxy primer after removing all rust and treating as required. You can fill on top of this and it seals out moisture.

#5 Minidarren83

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 06:12 PM

All noted Neil thank you. Regarding the primer, is there any application which will provide a moisture barrier before going to paint apart from rattle cans. As is usual, the body resto will take me about a year, so the first areas I do would be 1 year old when I take her to the shop. Is the answer simply to cover the primer with rattle cans to seal ?
 
Ruby's in my garage so out of the rain but obviously open to moisture and condensation.
 
Thanks.

The best primers to seal for weather protection are epoxy mastic have a look on www.rust.co.uk they have body primers and underbody and make a waterproof seal that can be left for as long as the restoration takes they can also be over painted with almost any paint type and body filler can be applied over the top of it after a light sand

Darren

#6 Stu.

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 06:38 PM

Thanks Chaps. Very much appreciate all your guidance.

I'm keen to use a zinc primer, so from bare metal, can I use an etch primer, then a zinc primer then expoxy mastic primer to seal for temporary finish, or should I not be using a zinc primer on the outside of the panels ?

Ive heard zinc primers are very good for water repellent barriers as part of a prep build up and is used heavilly in marine repair, so thought it would be good for my mini ?

#7 sonikk4

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 06:52 PM

Just looking at this product

http://www.clearcopr...rich_primer.pdf

and it would appear to be ok for what you need to do. However i would consider consulting a decent bodyshop to see what their take on it and products like it are.

This is an American product but there are others on the uk market.



#8 Stu.

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 09:52 PM

Thank you for the advice

#9 Jmccrary

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Posted 10 August 2013 - 12:20 AM

The only thing i will say about surface rust is if it has pitted the metal then you need to seriously consider chopping it out and replacing with fresh metal.

 

Nothing worse than seeing rust bubble through again a year down the line. Nothing cures rust apart from replacement with fresh metal.

 

The rest of your list is comprehensive however i would suggest you discuss what surface work you do other than the replacement of panels / rust etc with the paintshop. They may want to do all of the surface prep themselves.

 

If you are leaving the car outside in primer then any moisture will go through the primer, if its stored in a dry garage then you maybe ok but if we get any humid weather then you may suffer from moisture.

 

If you have to fill any areas then you will need to remove all paint local to the area to be filled.

 

Don't use etch primer on filler, just on bare metal.

Sonik...as you have seen the pix of my car...the old owner(s) took the filler and patch over method.  I am now half a car missing of panels to take the rust out and still finding more...

 

For anyone wanting to do body work on rust...please do the right thing and remove the metal and put fresh back in...yes it will take longer, but cost about the same and last a lot longer!



#10 Stu.

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Posted 10 August 2013 - 07:01 AM

Thanks. I certainly will and thanks for the helpful advice.

#11 Stu.

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Posted 10 August 2013 - 07:37 AM

So Ill replace all areas of rust with new panels and wont full over any existing rust / pitted areas. Ill fit new partial panels or metal fabrication instead, but is it ok to use filler over new metal. I assume some would be required to blend joins in butt joints and smooth lines through ? or should seam welding be good enough to blend by power filing and not need filler ?

#12 sonikk4

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Posted 10 August 2013 - 07:49 AM

Filling over new metal is fine. The odds on you getting a welded joint to sit perfectly ground down and flush without the need for filling is very very remote.

 

Just dont fill over paint.



#13 Stu.

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Posted 10 August 2013 - 11:40 AM

Good, and thank you. I know where Im going now.




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