4 replies to this topic

[miniman86]

Morning all, just trying to fix the oil leaks on the hornet, and don't know how to go about removing the converter so I can split the engine & box, anyone know?

Alex

[M J W J]

You will need a proper clutch puller to get it off. The haynes manual gives instructions on how to make one but when I tried it I just kept stripping threads.

 

A propper clutch puller will have very fine threads so will put a great deal of force into pulling it off.

 

You want something like this

 

http://www.minispare...Tools.aspx|Back to shop

 

I know this is for a clutch but as far as I remember they fit a torque converter as well. If I am wrong there are universal ones very similar.

 

Just a word of advice. I think there is an oil pump nut that needs to be undone. You need to prevent the engine from turning over to undo it. Do it before you remove the torque converter as having the torque converter in place makes it much easier stopping the engine from turning over.

[Dan]

  It comes off the same way the flywheel would but there are some important differences.  First, I don't think any of the flywheel pullers are suitable.  The bolt circle for pulling is much smaller on the converter.  MRA Minis were making torque converter pullers but they don't deal with the public any longer, Mini Spares might stock them.  Second, the puller locates into 3 of the 6 screw threads at the centre of the converter around the main bolt.  Remove 3 in the proper pattern for the puller, but DO NOT remove all 6 bolts together at ANY time.  When refitting it you will need to renew the locktabs here if there are any present (I think later ones don't have any so if not then use Loctite but if there are tabs, use new tabs).  Again DO NOT remove all 6 bolts at once, replace one locktab at a time.  If you remove all 6 bolts together, the converter IS SCRAP.  Other than that it's pretty straightforward, just remember to remove the key washer and have the slot horizontal as with a manual.  Remember there are around 4 pints of engine oil inside it.  I'm not sure about using it to lock the engine for releasing any oil pump nuts, the oil pump is behind it for one thing.  I don't know that there are any oil pump parts that rotate with the engine (other than the pump rotor), and the converter can't be used to hold anything that rotates with the gearbox because it will just spin.  You need an output gear holding tool once the torque converter is out of the way to successfully lock the gearbox.  I'm not sure if the spine is the same but if it is you could fabricate one out of a clutch centre.  But if you are just splitting the two then you may not need to lock it up.

Edited by Dan, 29 July 2013 - 08:24 AM.

[miniman86]

That's great dan, as I said I'm only removing it to split the block and box to sort out oil leaks, the working of the box is okay. I'll call Minispares and see if they have a removal tool, mine is an early auto so will probably have the lock tabs.

Alex

[M J W J]

I think when I did one we used a multipurpose puller but I did have to make up three studs that were longer enough to engage with the torque converter and clear the end of the crank.

 

I just spoke to my dad who helped me to do this ages ago (it was over 6 years ago when we did this). Its the converter input gear retaining nut that needs to be undone first not an oil pump nut. Its below where the oil pump is (I knew it said something about oil pump in my service manual). You have to put a screwdriver in an access hole at the top to lock the gearbox in place. If this fails according to my dad you can use a manual clutch to hold it in place (I was away at work when he finally got it apart). You do need to temporarily lock it in place.

 

When we got mine all apart we found that the gearbox was chewed to bits inside. It had even damaged the input and idler gear hence why we struggled to lock it in place. In the end I just converted the car to manual.