Phoenix Estate Vvc K-Series Diy Subframe Conversion
#46
Posted 24 August 2013 - 09:07 PM
I was planning to mount the engine with the drive shafts parallel through the subframe driveshaft holes (if that makes sense?) and it is nearly there.
But we'll see...
#47
Posted 24 August 2013 - 09:14 PM
#48
Posted 24 August 2013 - 09:55 PM
#49
Posted 25 August 2013 - 08:33 PM
I've offered it up a couple if times and addressed what has cropped up so far. I wont know exactly how the sump affects things until I've notched the bar where the gearbox hits. It didn't look like it was gonna be an issue.
I was planning to mount the engine with the drive shafts parallel through the subframe driveshaft holes (if that makes sense?) and it is nearly there.
But we'll see...
Are you using the pg1 box? If so the driveshaft pot joint on the n/s won't fit through the frame hole. I had to do the same and go round the sump as the ground clearance from the bottom arms would have been far too close
#50
Posted 26 August 2013 - 06:05 PM
#51
Posted 26 August 2013 - 06:07 PM
... Keep the suggestions coming tho folks, it all helps.
#52
Posted 06 September 2013 - 08:43 AM
I made these replacements up making sure they don't interfere with the tiebar or suspension bottom arm. I just need to tack them in, cut off the old straight ones and offer it all up again. Fingers crossed.
Once that's sorted I can think about the drive shaft holes. I could weld in a support (where chisel is) and add some triangulation (where the pliers are) to support the suspension arm pin. I've seen other frames where they've just cut the forward strut of the suspension tower off, to clear the drive shafts, but it just looks to flimsy for my liking.
#53
Posted 09 September 2013 - 08:08 PM
Offered it up, but its only partially successful. Gearbox has plenty of clearance.
...but sump still doesn't clear and there may not be enough space to move the arm over without it interfering with the tie bar.
#54
Posted 09 September 2013 - 08:11 PM
#55
Posted 09 September 2013 - 08:17 PM
Not enough clearance belt side, but luckily there looks like enough space on my 'extension' piece to move it over by the required amount.
Gearbox side mount will need to be a carrier type setup, welded end on under the removeable arm.
I may triangulate it with another removeable leg onto the bottom subframe arm.
Edited by Alburglar, 09 September 2013 - 08:19 PM.
#56
Posted 25 October 2013 - 11:22 PM
Hopefully this is the final attempt at the bottom arm and it will clear the sump now.
I built up over the tie bar mounting hole
I will box it all in and make it pretty, once I know it works.
and at the other end I added some gussets to meet the bottom of the suspension tower.
I just need to move the bar over at the cam belt end and then I can offer the engine/box up again.
Edited by Alburglar, 25 October 2013 - 11:26 PM.
#57
Posted 12 November 2013 - 09:00 PM
#58
Posted 12 November 2013 - 09:06 PM
The sump was still touching the bottom arm slightly, but the engine was sitting level with driveshaft holes lining up with the outputs on the gearbox, so I thought sod it. And did the mounts.
I can probabably get away with a very shallow notch in the bottom arm to clear the nob on the sump that touches the frame.
Edited by Alburglar, 12 November 2013 - 09:10 PM.
#59
Posted 19 November 2013 - 12:02 AM
Needs tidying, but notch in near side is done to clear sump (hopefully!)
#60
Posted 21 December 2013 - 08:17 PM
I finished off the removeable arm for gearbox mount. I added another bit to stop any forward/backward motion.
Then I cut out parts of the subframe towers to get the driveshafts in and out. It looks horribly weak though, so I'll be adding some steel here. These will bolt into tabs I will weld onto frame.
Edited by Alburglar, 21 December 2013 - 08:18 PM.
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