An advance curve is not tailored to a CC of engine unless were talking factory stock, once you have modded your engine it may need a different advance curve to stock to perform best, so for example a modded 850 might like a stock 1275 advance curve.
you need an adjustable distributor and rolling road time to dial it in perfectly.
With a more powerful spark you may not need as much advance as it lights the fuel charge easier
That seems logical and is what I thought would be the case, so the question is how far out are these aftermarket distributors? Even looking at a complete stock engine, I can't see one dizzy being perfect for an 850, 998, 1098 and 1275. So what ARE they set up for I wonder?
I come from a VW background and know vw on the aircooleds used over 50 different distributors all with different curves/limits and vac ranges, every change of engine spec go a new factory best curve.
I would think they will have picked a generic sport/road curve.
If there anything like the same Chinese crap distributors you can get for the vw's they wont even have the same curves from one to the next.
If you have a good timing light with rpm dial etc you can plot you own (centrifugal advance plug vac off) with it.
I hope mini people arent going to have the same bunch of nightmares vw people are having, I have seen some of these aftermarket distributors have 10 degrees advance so have 20, some 30 some non!!! Bunch of *******!!
I'll be honest and say that I don't think the Lucas distributors are hugely accurate, just look at the technology that's inside them. Yes, you can just about create a curve using centrifugal weights, you'll have to balance up the pivot position versus the spring rate versus rpm...oh, and versus temperature too, 'because the spring rate will change slightly hot to cold. The tiniest variation in spring rate and pivot position will cause things to end up not as intended, even more so as our distributors are running half engine rpm.
Do I think you stand half a chance with a chinese aftermarket distributor? Absolutely not - better keep you old Lucas unit and stick the electronic on it (and no, £15 for electronic ignition is not going to be any good).
I think if you really care what happens between no advance and maximum, then you'd better spend proper money on a programmable system with a trigger wheel that doesn't rely on one chain transfer and one gear transfer to time the spark to piston position.
Personally I want something that produces power somewhere close to spec without requiring unnecessary complications and resetting every five minutes - ideally without CB's.