14 replies to this topic

[dgear1984]

Hello

 

I have a 1275 cooper s engine i need to rebuild.

 

The block needs to have the cam bearings reaming, I have fitted new. Bore is good at +40 but might be worth a rehone.

 

The crank has been crack checked and needs a big end grind and also thinking about a lighten and wedge. probably worth balancing it at the same time

 

the head is a mk2 940 1805 and needs a skim and new valve seats unleaded and possible valve guides done. Also thinking about getting it ported.

 

The rods have been crack checked and i think it would be good to get them lightened.

 

I am happy to build the engine myself just need the machining work done, so my question is who would you recommend and what would you imagine the costs to be like. I am looking for someone who i can trust to do a good job first time seeing as proper s bits are getting rarer.

 

Would prefer something around the surrey/london area but could travel if the recommendation is strong enough.

 

Thanks Dave

 

 

[Noah]

Bill Richards Racing. In Kent. 

[Cooperman]

Rob Walker Engineering in Witney, near Oxford, is really very good. Highly recommended.

[govig]

Rob Walker.

[mini13]

Rob Walker is a good and a really nice chap too, and his prices are also pretty good.

[carbon]

Is the crank an original EN40 one? These are nitrided, I don't think wedging these will be easy to do as the metal is tough and the outside even more so. You lose the benefit of the nitrided skin if you take off more than about 10 thou, and I would suggest that you only regrind the bigends if essential...

 

With the rods - again are these the originals? Balancing end-to-end would be worth doing but lightening is a lot of work as you are starting with a pretty heavy rod in the first place. If you really want light rods you might be better off getting some of the billet rods which are pretty widely available.

 

A lot of the above depends on what sort of use you are planning to give it when complete.

[dgear1984]

If it's a genuine S engine and you haven't got the rest of the car to go with it. I'd be flogging it and buying a normal A+ 1275 to modify..........

After 5 years of rebuilding and buying bits I do have the rest of the car to go with it, ok it's not an original but as near as it can be to one.

I can try rob walker as I work in grove so it's only just up the road.

Thanks Dave

[dgear1984]

At the moment I have a 998 on a 1128 box. I intend to fit my s block onto the 1128 box.

What drop gears will I need to change, all of them or just the one on the crank? What is the difference between the a and a plus gears, just so I don't get the wrong ones

Thanks

[mk1leg]

is it ment to have a 22g333 box............

[dgear1984]

I know

That's another job for after the bank balance has recovered from building the s engine

[dgear1984]

Its also meant to have a 163 head but won't

[jaydee]

You really sure you want to rebuild it, modify and keep it? Such engine is hans teeth and i would keep it standard, and use another lump there are a lot of SPI engines around and they're great engines, get one for cheap and modify it.

Rob walker is the man for S engines, he worked with cooper himself and he was the man behind oselli..

[janner]

Paul Inch Engineering in Plymouth has just built one and gets over 120 bhp from it - highly reccomended. 

[carbon]

1128 box is ideal even if not quite original for a Mk1.

 

Stick with the standard 1275 (pre A+) crank gear, and this should work fine with your idler.

 

With 10 inch wheels and fast road tune 1275 I am using 3.1 diff using 1128 on the 'S' close ratio (3.33, 2.09, 1.353, 1:1), and this gives good overall results. If you have the standard ratio gearset in your 1128 then 2.95 gives identical overall gearing in the first three gears, and slightly taller in top.

[dgear1984]

I used Rob Walker and was very happy with the service and rebuild advice he gave me