26 replies to this topic

[RossKnight]

The only movement it gets

 

[valve bounce]

there is an easier way to free it off, remove the clevis pin and the clutch arm then put a spanner on the lock nut and turn the whole lot round and round whilst spraying it in wd40. then refit and put the slave back on and work it whilst still spraying in wd40

[mike.]

That bit of movement you've got is just the arm moving it its slot. Its not actually moving the plunger by the looks of things. 

 

Its obviously well seized and using a huge pole or an engine crane is just going to damage the arm itself by bending or snapping the ball on the end of it. 

 

As above, next step is to remove the clevis pin that the arm pivots on (chances are this won't come out easy either) and then you can try turning the plunger itself with a spanner. 

 

 

You really should get some plug gas too, WD40 is pretty hopeless for penetrating into corrosion, its not what its made for. 

 

You can make your own penetrating lube by mixing acetone (nail polish remover) with ATF (automatic transmission fluid) at 50/50 ratio and soak that on the clevis pin and plunger.

[BVY]

It's a pain in the arse, but you can get the cover off with the engine in. I've had to do it about 3 times in the last month.

You just have to undo the engine mount on that side, use a jack to support the engine. Undo the both engine steady bars. You've already taken off the slave. Undo all the bolts holding one the 'wok'. The bottom couple of bolt are a barstuard to get out.

i think that's it. You will probably have to give it a whack with a RUBBER mallet to get the wok off. 

As said before, be careful taking it off because the clutch is under pressure!

 

Then you can clean everything up and saok it all in what ever you've been using to try to free it off.

[mike.]

Oh and also - If its comes to it. The cover can be removed in the car. Its not too hard, there just 3 or 4 bolts that are hard to access. I got an old spanner and cut it and bent it to shape to fit.

[KernowCooper]

Any news if you managed to free the shaft off?

[RossKnight]

It's in a barn, not at my house, didn't get a chance to go there today, but I guess it's gave the wd a bit more time to soak in

 

Hopefully pop up tomorrow, fingers crossed

[KernowCooper]

If thats not done the trick plus gas and remove the clevis and rotate the shaft as said above

[Jamieboy]

I had this exact issue recently. To resolve it I loosened the large throwout nut, sprayed Plusgas behind the nut and down the side of the clutch arm. After I'd given it lots of soaking time, I put a long bar on the arm from above and gave it a few knocks downwards with a mallet. Firmly, but not brutally. The downward shock on the arm eventually released it.

My post on the issue:

http://www.theminifo...h/#entry2832572

Edited by Jamieboy, 28 June 2013 - 07:36 PM.

[RossKnight]

Still at it... Haven't been able to go up there for ages, just went there now, and I can't get the stupid clevis pin off, it looks like someone has snapped the split pin or something, as I can't feel the end any where... any ideas? This is all I managed to get photowise

 

Found it near impossible, is there any reason they put the split pin on the back side of it where I can't even see it to get it off? Probably a logical explanation, but it seems stupid!

 

[BVY]

The clevis pin should go in from the bottom so the split pin is on top. I couldn't even undo with it on top.

 

Anyway, forget that! You need to take the whole clutch cover off totally!!! It'll save you so much hassle! Then while it's off you can free up the mechanism! While it's off you might as well change the clutch release bearing and engine mount...

 

It's going to be the easiest way and then you know you won't damage anything else in there.

[tiger99]

I suspect that the lever has gone too far, and the ball end has bent or somehow jammed the plunger, possibly also damaging the wok. The position it is in now seems to be well beyond the normal range of movement. It may be ok after a good clean, or you may need a new lever. I suspect that it happened because the overtravel stop was not set correctly, and possibly the thrust bearing has failed.