11 replies to this topic

[Woody2332]

Want to change my heater control valve to an electric one, as every thing else has changed to savage switches ect, will look odd I think with a pull switch, has any one done this? I've bought one already but might have got the wrong on as this has one entrance and two exits, or vice versa, what's the best way to wire it up, worked out that the are 3 terminal middle one being neg and the other two for opening each individual valve, hope people understand what i'm asking

[Captain Mainwaring]

You'll need to put some power on it and see if it's spring return centre or power open, power shut and if it has limit switches.

You could cook the thing if you leave the power on it continuously. 

Any chance of a photo or two?

[Craig89]

Just out of interest is it just like an inline solenoid valve? As above you need to determine weather power opens both valves then it is power to close again or spring return with power for each exit

[Woody2332]

Hi, it looks similar to this one. http://item.mobilewe...nid=90179511930


I've put power to each terminal, and you can hear some thing open/ close for a second or two, and then nothing so I'm guessing if power is left on there continuously its going to burn on, I've rewired most of my car for a savage switches so best to get non patching for this? And what's the best heater to buy as I don't want the pull cord type? Want it to be electric also

[Woody2332]

Probably best I have water running though it and try and see what happens when I open and close the valves, how did the old one work? You pulled it completely to shut the valve off to have cold air? By pulling the cord full out? And then pushing it flush to the dash was hot and middle warm? Or have I got it wrong?

[Dan]

  Which way around it works depends on the age of the car and which of the two valves is fitted but yes, it's a progressive control and can be blended up and down.  I mean theoretically it is, it doesn't work very well to reduce the heat to a lower level.  It may as well be fully on or fully off.  The type you have sounds like a bypass valve, in that when it's switched off it still allows water to flow through the system apart from the heater.  Look at the Vintage Air website if you want a valve you can use to control flow, they have one that uses a stepper motor instead of solenoids.

[Woody2332]

Ok thankyou, what the heater heater to use?

[Captain Mainwaring]

Google "Mercedes Duo Valve"

I think the valve that you have is a PWM controlled valve, but I think it should be OK with a constant supply for simple on/off control, unless you feel like building a square wave generator or trying to find an old Merc one.

You'll want to block one side off...or....just buy a merc mono-valve....

 

Edited by Captain Mainwaring, 22 June 2013 - 10:48 AM.

[Dan]

  So it pulses to regulate the flow volume ?  Seems needlessly complex to me.  If it's just two valves in one housing rather than a bypass valve as I though then I'd be tempted not to bother with it.

 

  The best heater from a Mini is the Twinpoint one.

[Captain Mainwaring]

Yep, it's the only way you can position a coil without going to extreme lengths - the PWM stops "sticktion".

 

For what it's worth, it's how the SPi drives the temp gauge - the MEMS takes an analogue signal and converts it to PWM and passes it to the gauge.

 

It's two valves in one housing - so the heater is always at full flow, just depends on the call for heat whether the full flow is recirc or off the block.

 

Most modulating boiler gas valves use PWM for gas valve control.

[Woody2332]

New fiesta?

[Woody2332]

Ok sweet will give that ago