Complete Rebuild Of A 1982 City Shell
#31
Posted 14 June 2013 - 09:31 PM
Sorry to be another bad news bloke
#32
Posted 14 June 2013 - 09:39 PM
Its just not really worth doing, the 2 seams hold the car together and need to be right, if they distort or move(or have already) then you'll have a twisted car.
I'd gather this to be quite likely now the inner and outer sills and front passenger floor have also been removed.
#33
Posted 14 June 2013 - 11:13 PM
As much as I respect your opinions, it is too late now to turn back. I've spent well over £250 on this project so far and although it might not seem that much money to you, it is for me.
I am going to do lots of practice welding before I even touch the seams. The next thing I am going to do is brace the shell to prevent any twisting or distorting of it. Although so far, it doesn't seem to have moved at all. The seams line up nicely and when we temporarily mounted subframes, the wheels looked nice and straight. As I haven't actually removed the sills yet, just the oversill, that wouldn't have made any difference.
I'm going to get it tested before I put it on the road, just to make sure the seams are strong and that it isn't twisted.
Yes, it does need quite a lot of work but so will any shell that isn't brand new. I can't see why it should cost any more than £1000 to get the body work perfect, even if it means buying an accident damaged or badly corroded shell and cutting the seams out to use in my almost solid shell.
With the help of my dad, who is an experienced welder, having restored about 6 various Morris Minors, I don't think it should be too hard to get a decent, solid shell.
Although my welding looks absolutely terrible now, you have to remember, I have only been using a welder for two days. So I am hoping, with the help of some extra tools (auto dimming mask, welding clamps etc.) my welding will improve.
Anyway, where's the fun in buying a car that just needs a couple of floorpans? I'm never going to learn if I just go for the easy stuff.
Again, I really do appreciate the comments and I hope I don't just come across as ignorant when everyone's telling me to scrap the shell but I'd quite like to keep another Mini on the road.
#34
Posted 14 June 2013 - 11:23 PM
Its entirely up to you, I'm not gonna bang on about it .
I don't want you to to put a lot of time and money into something may not end up square and straight. Its also the dad in me as well, I wouldn't want my son driving around in that.
The work done by the previous owner doesn't look good and the shell could easily be twisted.
I'm no quitter either, this is what I've just bought..
#35
Posted 14 June 2013 - 11:41 PM
It will cost a lot more than a grand to sort the shell and get it it painted Harry, it adds up
#36
Posted 14 June 2013 - 11:56 PM
I meant it not going to cost me more than a grand to get a nice solid shell, in primer ready to paint.
#37
Posted 15 June 2013 - 07:13 AM
#38
Posted 15 June 2013 - 08:21 AM
Wings - £80
Front panels - £45
A panels - £14 (may not need these)
Sill - £13
Sill - £8
Boot lid - £25
(Already bought above)
Inner wings - £200 pair
Inner sills - £20 pair
Bonnet - £60?
Pair doors - £250?
Subs - £150 pair?
Sheet metal - £?
That all comes to £865. Add about £60 for 6 bottles of gas and its going to cost me 900 quid to sort the body work. It might come to a little more.
#39
Posted 15 June 2013 - 08:31 AM
What gas are you using now? If it's the small bottles you'll need more than 6 bottle, it will be cheaper in the long run to buy a big bottle of gas that can be refilled. If you are using co2 then you may find it easyer to use argon co2 mix.
It's up to you what you do with the shell but I would be thinking about another one personally.
This one requires some work, but it comes with door's and bonnet?
http://www.theminifo...i-cooper-shell/
#40
Posted 15 June 2013 - 08:52 AM
The floor looks like its also had some repairs to the drivers side inner sill as it looks patchy?
I tend to just brace the shell up and cut the lot out.
For me the big issue with your car is the deseaming, there's no real way to determine if its twisted the shell. There certainly very little strength in the shell.
Like I said its up to you but your shell isn't one i'd consider putting money into. I'd be concerned that after doing all that work it would never steer straight or be entirely safe.
£2.5k is a lot of money to risk throwing down the toilet. At the moment you can walk away from this and not lose too much time or money,
Do you have the rest of the car?
If not then you'll need a donor car as buying all the parts individually will cost a fortune. If you buy a 2nd complete car then you can make one good one up out of the two.
I'm not saying all of this because I doubt your ability to do the work, I 'm saying because to me it makes no sense spending decent money on a ruined shell. There's plenty of better ones about.
#41
Posted 15 June 2013 - 10:41 AM
The floor looks like its also had some repairs to the drivers side inner sill as it looks patchy?
I was going to replace both inner and outer sills on both sides.
To try and determine whether the shell has twisted, I will measure different places. For example n/s rear seam to o/s front seam etc. If these measurements are different then that should tell me that the shell is twisted and it's time to start looking for another one.
I'm not worried about strength as I am going to put extra braces in to relieve some of the stress from the seams. I will also build up a seam on the inside and out. I will inspect the shell more carefully and make a decision as to whether I'm going to fully deseam it or make new exterior seams.
If I was to put it on subframes and measure the wheelbase each side and diagonally that would also tell me whether the subframe mounts have been affected.
I don't have the rest of the car but buying a second complete car would definitely be an option.
If it's possible, I would like to save this shell, it's also the cost of moving shells I have to include. It costs me £50 every time I want to move a shell to hire a trailer.
If all the measurements seem okay, I will use this shell and the work done to it won't be bodged, I will do it properly. If the measurements aren't good, I will cut it up to get all the decent panels out (floors, bulkhead, o/s quarter panel etc.) and buy something else.
Thank you for all the help and advice, I really do appreciate it.
#42
Posted 15 June 2013 - 11:12 AM
I don't think you'll be able to tell using a tape measure?
Sometimes its better to cut and run rather than ploughing on. You'll end up with a better car and one you can be proud of.
All I can is say that I've done a lot of cars and this is one that I would walk away from.
I'll keep an eye on your progress and good luck.
#43
Posted 15 June 2013 - 11:56 AM
Okay, I've had a long, hard think about it and I'm starting to agree with you guys. I have enquired about the below shell and am awaiting a reply.
I'm thinking that out of these two shells, I might be able to make a nice solid car.
The panels I have bought should be able to help me remove the rust and any sections that are rotten on the green shell, I can probably salvage from the red one.
I'm not getting my hopes up yet though, I might not even be able to get this shell.
This one requires some work, but it comes with door's and bonnet?
Thank you for persisting and making me see sense.
#44
Posted 15 June 2013 - 02:47 PM
#45
Posted 15 June 2013 - 02:52 PM
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