2 replies to this topic

[Harryweekes]

i have just noticed after running my car for about three month that i have no clutch return spring between the arm and cylinder, i found this photo which shows the spring in place on another car, would not having this spring be the reason my mini can sometimes struggle going into gear, and also for some reason my local garage seemed to think i needed a longer clutch pin is this possible i didn't know you could by different length clutch pins? need some help getting my clutch sorted any help much appreciated, the clutch is new apparently and i don't have any slip at all but it just sometimes crunches a little going into first and sometimes wont go into first when stationary need to give the throttle a blip or start to roll before it slips into first???

 

Also just to add i have bled the clutch, ive never had problems like this with a verto clutch as the set up is slightly different so im confused lol

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[tiger99]

There have been issues here on the forum with people needing to extend the push rod to get the clutch to work. I think the consensus of opinion is that it is usually due to a worn pivot or ball end on the arm, maybe a release bearing that is thinner than original spec, and in some cases a clutch cover that has distorted. I guess that the way it distorts is if the overtravel stop nuts are not properly set and someone presses the pedal hard.

 

You really do need a spring, but it is not that critical, almost any tension spring will do. Its function is to keep the thrust bearing back off the clutch when your foot is not on the pedal, to prevenyt excess wear and possibly noise. A slightly softer or stiffer spring will still do that, too hstiff and the clutch will become a bit heavy. Without it, the clutch travel may be erratic, as the thrist bearing may be in contact, or not, each time you use the pedal. And, there are hydraulic implications, if the piston is not pushed back you will get excess travel next time.

 

The Verto works the other way, a light spring inside the slave cylinder extends it to keep the thrust bearing in light contact all the time, and the self-adjustment is obtained hydraulically, because when the pedal is up and the reservoir port uncovered, the pressure will equalise to near zero (just the head of fluid in the pipe) in that condition.

[Harryweekes]

Ahh thank you for this makes sense now I will by a spring now :)