58 replies to this topic

[Fossy313]

Hi guys, fitted new wheel bearings to the rear left today, its the tapered ones not the ball type, took everything out races and all, cleaned up and hammered the new racers in, put the new bearings in, all greased up with the supplied greased, washer in the correct way (slight little groove that goes into bearings)

HOWEVER.

When I go to tighten the nut up to 61nm as it says int he book the hub won't spin freely, I mean it takes two hands to spin it), took to apart the racers are matched up, when I take a bit of slack off the 61nm , little more than half a turn it moves freely with no play.

I have looked at the net, a few people have had it but can't find a diagnostic yet, what have I don't wrong?

Cheers in advance

Craig

[lrostoke]

was there a spacer sleeve for inbetween the 2 bearings

[petey81]

strange I always went to 81nm on the rear hub nut 61 should be in lb ft.

have you checked there isn't too much grease behind the hub to back plate causing you to struggle tightening down.

Edited by petey81, 06 June 2013 - 06:26 PM.

[Fossy313]

Sorry 81nm is right that's me being stupid, nope no enough grease but not to much, and there is no spacer in these mate its the tapered roller ones with the inbuilt spacer from minisport (genuine), I really am confused, I have no idea, I have another hub which as a last resort will put some new ones in that and give that a go as I have one spare set but its really stumped me, if I was to do it up to 81 it wouldn't move for sure, I'm worried about driving it with it even though its spinning fine and the split pin would hold it, I don't know why it's not allow me to torque it up?

Edited by Fossy313, 06 June 2013 - 06:39 PM.

[petey81]

Post some pics if you can. Should be able to help a bit more mate.

[Fossy313]

Will do tomorrow mate if I can

[Fossy313]

Hi guys, here's the photo, I had another hub and used new wheel bearings but its still the same, maybe the bearings have to bed in but here's the photo



The only thing. Can think is that its the gap where the new races have gone in, but that's as far down as I can get them, I used the old racer to get it down, then a 32mil socket to get it down as far as I can go



Top wheel bearing and oil seal



Greece and rear bearing and washer








The wheel turns ok when it's ok but that's due to the extra weight, I really am stumped and don't really want to drive to far in case im doing some damage. I have front suspension to fit yet but don't want to move on until this is sorted

Edited by Fossy313, 07 June 2013 - 08:54 AM.

[Ethel]

I'd put my money on that gap being an indicator that the race isn't seated properly. Take it out and have a scrape round the angle of the seat with a sharp pointy thing. If the corresponding edge of the race is sharp you could take a file or some production paper to it - just to champfer the edge.

[lrostoke]

On that 2nd photo that looks like a large gap below the bearing.

If it is a gap then bearing needs to go in more.

It would certainly explain the tightness.

 

The inner race will be binding before the inbuilt spacers have met.

[Fossy313]

Iro, you taking about the bit where the race touches the centre?, cheers guys, few things to look at.... How is it u guys get the races seated properly?

[lrostoke]

Maybe just lucky , I just clean out apply a bit of grease to outer surface and tap them in...same method really using a big socket and going round

 

12 oclock 6 oclock 3 oclock 9 oclock

 

normally get a definite change in sound when its seated all the way.

[Ethel]

As in my first reply. Bearing races are a tight fit, so they'll scrape up any gunge from the seat as they go in. This would also apply to the old bearing which will have compacted that gunge in the corner, if your new bearing has a fraction less champfer it won't seat over the gunge. Also, what did you drift the old race out with? If you hit the edge of built in spacer with something harder you may have bruised it slightly.

[Fossy313]

Used a large nail and sawed it off to make it flat so I wouldn scratch it..... So what do you reakon take them out again have another clean and try and put them in again? What Greece should I used now as I won't have anymore left in the packet?

Edited by Fossy313, 07 June 2013 - 11:35 AM.

[lrostoke]

how about this.

 

http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165705

 

Before you knock them out may just be worth one final bash with a big hammer see if you get any movement.

[Fossy313]

Okay, I'll get the bearings back out and give it another bash later to see if there is any movement