14 replies to this topic

[darkcat]

I have FINALLY received all the bits i need to start rebuilding my engine, I want to get started asap.

OK so when i bought the cam, i bought a tub of Kent cams cam lube, but its rather thin, like thick engine oil, so by the time ive finished the build, got the engine in and started, surely it will have mostly come off, so not giving me good cam run-in protection?!

I have ordered some Torco assembly lube instead ( http://www.demon-twe...CFavHtAodTlwAYw ) to coat the cam lobes and followers as i this is a gel, should be with me tomorrow.

However i dont have anything specific for the big ends and main bearings - I dont want to use plain engine oil as its not recommended, but do you think the kent cam lube would be a good choice for this? its full of zinc-y goodness

[Sheikh Pip]

Quote "I dont want to use plain engine oil as its not recommended"

 

 

Well it was good enough for the original manufacturer to use in millions of engines! And in several engines I've built over the years, and never had a problem. 

[Cooperman]

In over 50 years of building all sorts of engines I've seen many different assembly lube/oil used. Some have used EP80 or 90, others a 20w50 engine oil and, latterly, a branded assembly lube.
All seemed to have worked OK. Remember, all the ass'y lube does is protect the surfaces whilst the engine is spun over with the plugs out to get the oil pressure up before first start-up. So it's around 150 rpm cranking speed for maybe 20 seconds.
I have even seen oil pumps primed with wheel bearing grease to help with initial priming (not recommended though).

[Dan]

  I use build lube oil for the bearings, followers, valve gear and chain.  Build lube grease for packing the oil pump and the cam lobes.  Plain, running-in grade engine oil for the ring packs.

Edited by Dan, 05 June 2013 - 06:56 PM.

[Jordie]

i use the torco stuff and engine oil. works fine.

[ANON]

graphogen

[darkcat]

Quote "I dont want to use plain engine oil as its not recommended"

 

 

Well it was good enough for the original manufacturer to use in millions of engines! And in several engines I've built over the years, and never had a problem. 

Only 'because its cheap and easy - its not recommended for quality engine builds at all. 
Plus im running a high lift race cam so initial wear during break-in is my main concern.

[Dan]

  It's because OE engines are dry run within minutes of being built so it's fine for them to use normal engine oil.  Not that it is normal oil though.  They are built and hooked up to large jigs that run oil into them from a huge tank that gets recycled round and filtered.  It is pumped into the engines at pressure before they get dry run on the jig, so most of the components go together with no more protection than the oil they were cleaned up with when they left the machining.  The oil is pumped in which floats all the bearings then the engine is spun over.  It isn't fired up and hasn't been sitting dripping for days or weeks since assembly.  It gets very gently run on the machine with no firing strokes hammering away at it.  Then when it is disconnected this oil all drains out and the unit goes for final assembly and is filled with its proper oil, it's sitting there having already made its initial run-in cycle without being fired and is ready to go for testing.

Edited by Dan, 05 June 2013 - 08:10 PM.

[valve bounce]

stp oil treatment is what i use, nice and thick and sticks really well and only about £5 a pot which will easily do 1 engine and box

[rubinio]

stp oil treatment is what i use, nice and thick and sticks really well and only about £5 a pot which will easily do 1 engine and box

 

same, stp is sticky enough to stay on the components whilst sat before running, it also stays in the pump so assists with priming the system

 

I've also used graphogen on some mating surfaces as well.

 

I always feed oil through the system prior to first startup as well.

[jaydee]

Moly grease is another cheap alternative.

I use torco engine lube aswell, very sticky stuff

[darkcat]

Seems everyone's got slightly different methods - i went with the kent cam lube on the mains and big ends, torco on the cam, and 10w40 engine oil on the rings/bores in the end. 

The cam is what im most concerned about being double-spring'ed and high lift etc. 

now onwards with the rest of the build!

[mini93]

I used Kent cams engine lube for my last build.

While its thick Id still be concerned about it leaking down over time if the engine was sat stored for a while before initial use.

 

Iv just obtained some RedLine build lube, much thicker than the Kent cams stuff so should sit on components well if your not using the engine right away

[Tahiti Joe]

Graphogen for me, good stuff.

[tiger99]

As well as applying whatever you believe to be the best lubricant, you should fill the oil filter, take the rocker cover off and put a little bit of oil on the rocker shaft, rockers, pushrods and valves (refit the cover of course), put a drop of oil down the bores, and then also spin the engine over on the starter, with plugs out and fuel system disabled, until you see oil pressure on the gauge. Your bearings are all then wet, so you can quickly fit the plugs, connect the fuel, and start it up. The crankshaft bearings will be fine, but you should only use whatever is recommended by your camshaft supplier on any new cam.

 

Any decent engine oil will actually retain a film on the bearings for a long time, but I prefer to pressurise it without the engine being under load first anyway.