245 replies to this topic

[RoryN]

Duds yeah its standard apart from the custom exhaust/manifold and pipercross filter. My 116mph terminal was in 6th and it runs mid 12's. Would pull more but being a hillclimb special its pointless.
I usually run a 14-50 when hillclimbing, change the front spricket just to play on the 1/4mile haha

[thespikeyone]

 

My race r1 mini at 500kg with me in it can pull 116mph no problem at the limiter over the 1/4mile.
Mines isnt a promotive kit. I run a 15t - 50t setup on 13 wheels.

Rory

 

 

thespikeyone

Be interesting to hear how you get on with some taller gearing. There are some good free GPS apps you can download to verify speed. I bought a speedo healer and then calibrated my R1 clocks so now they read GPS speed

 

 

Yeah I have a speedo healer gps speedo app  need to have a play about with things although the weather is getting worse and I think I will be parking it up for the winter soon.  

[kubinski]

Im bussy with my wiringloom of my pro motive kit, do you know where you did put your reverse switch? (backup light)

Did you put a cable switch?

 

i can't figure it out

[thespikeyone]

Im bussy with my wiringloom of my pro motive kit, do you know where you did put your reverse switch? (backup light)

Did you put a cable switch?

 

i can't figure it out

 

I have actually fitted a 12v linear actuator which works from a switch on the centre console.

 

I suppose you could mount a micro switch which would be activated by the lever coming out of the reverse box???

[kubinski]

Can you make a picture of your lineair actiator?
And what type it its? So i can order one. And what stroke you got.
I like your idea

[thespikeyone]

so today i decided to do a bit of bracketeering and to fit a high level brake light.

 

take one van step tread that was laying around the garage and bend it and attach the little bracket things that come with the cheap ebay rope light.

 

 

paint it with a wee bit of vw black magic

 

 

fit the cheapo rope light and screw bracket to roof.  

 

 

happy days, total cost £6.50 

[thespikeyone]

Can you make a picture of your lineair actiator?
And what type it its? So i can order one. And what stroke you got.
I like your idea

 

 

 

I am still trying to get a reliable system together as things seem to break and bend when the internal gears in the box don't mesh (this is a regular occurrence)

 

I used a GLA200 actuator from Gimson Robotics, this moves quicker than the standard type, I went for 50mm stroke but I had to dismantle it and move the internal limit switches to stop it over travelling (although it still does a bit).  I had real trouble connecting the actuator to the lever, tried bolt and clevis fork but it kept snapping bolts when gears didn't mesh. I then tried a spring but that ended up bending when gears didn't mesh, so now I am trying a rubber mount and will see how long that lasts.

 

Good luck, if you can get a more reliable system please let me know.

[kubinski]

 

Can you make a picture of your lineair actiator?
And what type it its? So i can order one. And what stroke you got.
I like your idea

 

 

 

I am still trying to get a reliable system together as things seem to break and bend when the internal gears in the box don't mesh (this is a regular occurrence)

 

I used a GLA200 actuator from Gimson Robotics, this moves quicker than the standard type, I went for 50mm stroke but I had to dismantle it and move the internal limit switches to stop it over travelling (although it still does a bit).  I had real trouble connecting the actuator to the lever, tried bolt and clevis fork but it kept snapping bolts when gears didn't mesh. I then tried a spring but that ended up bending when gears didn't mesh, so now I am trying a rubber mount and will see how long that lasts.

 

Good luck, if you can get a more reliable system please let me know.

 

Thanks for the good pictures and information.

 

I will do my best, and when i got a reliable system i will let you know.

[DeadSquare]

So now I have a bare shell time to start rust busting

 

998030_10151592793650748_1855202612_n.jpg

 

 

539588_10151592793515748_304901147_n.jpg

 

994857_10151592793380748_841393860_n.jpg

 

inner wings on both side are goosed.

 

 

Got home and this was waiting

 

1000852_10151592793230748_563199862_n.jpg

 

So now I have a bare shell time to start rust busting

 

998030_10151592793650748_1855202612_n.jpg

 

 

539588_10151592793515748_304901147_n.jpg

 

994857_10151592793380748_841393860_n.jpg

 

inner wings on both side are goosed.

 

 

Got home and this was waiting

 

1000852_10151592793230748_563199862_n.jpg

 

 

I do hope you didn't fit those springs.

[thespikeyone]

I did fit them. About a week after I had it on the road they were out and a set of red spots on. Lesson learned.

[thespikeyone]

Ok so now im looking for some advice.  Overall the car is pretty good to drive, when at mid rev range through corners its pretty mega and holds the road well. but......  under hard acceleration/ high revs the torque steer is a right handful, it goes to the right hard and needs 10-20 degrees steering input to keep it straight which then drifts left when you dip the throttle to change gear.  Also when I go over the crest of a hill at speed and the weight comes off the wheels it very quickly and aggressively pulls to the right i mean like proper twitchy bum pulling to the right!!!!

 

current settings are as follows:

 

7 x 13 ultralite extremes, yes I know everyone hates 13's but im pretty sure thats not the issue

 

Front: 

caster = 4 degrees

camber = -1.5

toe = 15' TO

 

Rear:

camber = -1

toe = 15' TI

 

any help is greatly appreciated

[duds100]

Sorry to say this but I am pretty sure 13s are your issue.

 

It's most probably down to the offset of the wheels. By installing 13x7's those you have increased the wheel offset over standard, which increases the scrub radius. The scrub radius is the distance on the ground between the centre of the tire contact patch and the point at which the steering axis inclination (SAI) intersects the ground. SAI being between the upper & lower ball joint. So the bigger offset of your wheels, the more you increase the distance between this contact patch centre line, and where the SAI line meets the ground.

 

The point at which the steering axis line contacts the ground is the fulcrum pivot point on which the tire turns. The location of this point within the contact patch has a big effect on steering effort, response, and stability. When you have excessive positive scrub the steering effort increases and road feedback increases. The steering is also more susceptible to road impacts. You might have found that after fitting 13s the steering wheels tuggs more at your hands & is heavier to steer compared to when you drove with smaller wheels on before.

 

On a super smooth race track, with 13s fitted, the added steering effort and communication from the front wheels can be a good thing but on UK roads, as you are finding, it is more of a struggle to find good traction and predictable handling.

 

If you want to keep 13s try and go for the highest offset wheel you can find to make the track narrower & reduce the scrub radius. It should help

[thespikeyone]

so I took the mini to a small show at carlisle last weekend and on the way home I started hearing some weird noises coming from the drive train and getting some vibration through the steering wheel.  when I got home I had a look and found the chain tensioner had came loose and wedged its self between the guard and the chain.  sorted that and put the 18t front sprocket back on, I also got my new steering rack through so fitted that and re-set the tracking, took it out for a spin and The torque steer seems to have calmed down significantly, but i'm still getting lots of noise and vibration from the drive train , seems to be a knocking noise when I lift off the power.

 

Had a look underneath and the only thing I could find was a decent amount of play in the NS output shaft,  see vid below

 

https://youtu.be/QM8kNKzeh3I

 

my question, is this amount of play an indication of immanent failure???

[evolone38]

Have you tried putting a new chain on it? You should have spare chains ready made.. you will be amazed how much a chain can rattle your brain. I have logged 3k miles on my swap so far, lots of chain maintaining and after the chain incident you had,... you should rechain it for good measure.

[duds100]

Definitely check chain tension. Sometimes a knocking noise can be the idler pulley skipping teeth if the chain is too slack.

 

Play in the output shaft is concerning, mine & my friends both don't move like that. Best to send a link of the vid to Darren at Pro-motive for his diagnosis. 

 

Good news on the torque steer improvement. I will thinking about it over the wknd, might be worth checking your top / bottom ball joints for correct shimming and that they correctly torqued up ( I think it's 75 lb ft).