
Help Needed Please. Tools For 8.4 To 7.5 Conversion.
#1
Posted 28 May 2013 - 11:47 AM
Thanks for the help
#2
Posted 28 May 2013 - 12:03 PM
copper grease on the back of the pads unless you want squeaky brakes
set of spanners
breaker bar for the hub nut + a massive socket i think its an 32mm but someone correct me.
appliers to remove split pin from hub and pads in calliper.
bleed brakes - i used ezibleed, cheap and no mess instructions are very easy
thats about it really
#3
Posted 28 May 2013 - 12:06 PM
The hub nut should be either 1 5/16" or possibly 33 mm or 34 mm.
#4
Posted 28 May 2013 - 12:07 PM
it's 1 & 5/16" or 34mm. Ideally you will take both as the car could have either size nut fitted.
Torque wrench.
Bleed nipples can be a variety of sizes, just take a selection of small imperial spanners.
If you still have rubber brake hoses then a hose clamp will save you some trouble. Or are you fitting new hoses? That would be the best bet.
#5
Posted 28 May 2013 - 12:20 PM
You'll need a proper big torque wrench, can't remember exactly the torque required for the hub nut but know its more than most 1/2" drive wrenches go to. Somebody may have one you could borrow if you're lucky.
#6
Posted 28 May 2013 - 08:56 PM
Thanks for the help guys, Got everything all I need now is a big torque wrench! Anyone got one in the Rutland area I can borrow?
#7
Posted 28 May 2013 - 09:40 PM
I
You'll need a proper big torque wrench, can't remember exactly the torque required for the hub nut but know its more than most 1/2" drive wrenches go to. Somebody may have one you could borrow if you're lucky.
You need a torque wrench for the caliper bolts ( 40lbs), never needed a torque wrench for the hub nut. Remember to pre load the Hub nut instead.
#8
Posted 29 May 2013 - 09:16 AM
I
You'll need a proper big torque wrench, can't remember exactly the torque required for the hub nut but know its more than most 1/2" drive wrenches go to. Somebody may have one you could borrow if you're lucky.
You need a torque wrench for the caliper bolts ( 40lbs), never needed a torque wrench for the hub nut. Remember to pre load the Hub nut instead.
what does pre loading the hub nut mean?
#9
Posted 30 May 2013 - 09:23 AM
Conical roller bearings have to be preloaded and well seated onto the CV joint.
This is very easy to do, but if you have never done wheel bearings before, at this point a torque wrench could help:
The easiest way to pre-load wheel bearings, is to get a big flat washer (like this one http://www.minispare...ols/TOOL21.aspx ) and use this instead of the conical washer. Torque the hub nut, and keep spinning the cv in the hub by the drive flange during the process (tighten about 1/4 and spin the drive flange, tighten 1/8 and spin the drive flange and so on..).If you have little to none experience with the mini bearings, a torque wrench could help you to tighten the hub to the correct torque setting. Once youve done a couple of bearing you already know whether it is tight or not..
Once torqued dont fit the pin!
Have a cup of tea and leave the hub torqued for a quarter or half hour, spinning it round every now and then.
Undo the hub nut and replace the big flat washer with the proper conical washer (use a brand new one!).
Torque it up and fit the pin. (At this point is totally useless a torque wrench beacause you should have to set the hub at about 200n then tighten up to next hole which will result in torqueing up even to 360..)
Job done.
Edited by jaydee, 30 May 2013 - 09:29 AM.
#10
Posted 03 June 2013 - 07:14 PM
Hi,
I dont mean to hijack this but the last 2 posts are well confusing. Why do you need to pre-load bearings? and Dilligaf - what did you mean by 'alternatively fit the bearings properly in the first place...........'- how?
I've done bearings on an old Renault 5 I had and it was very straight forward. I had imagined it would be the same on the mini - was I being naive?
Rod
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