13 replies to this topic

[Piper x]

Jeez! Had to replace the engine mounting bracket (under the radiator) on my 1275 GT.

Getting the old bracket out was straight forward enough - remove radiator, cowling and fan, support the weight of the engine on a block of wood, extract the two long bolts that hold the bracket onto the engine, and finally remove the two bolts that hold the bracket onto the chassis. Bracket litterly drops out!

 

Trying to get the new one back on is a feckin nightmare! I have managed to secure the new bracket onto the engine with the two long bolts, but I simply cant get the bracket lined up to the chassis? I can get it to about half a bolt hole, but not enough to get the bolt through. So bloody close!!

Ive been at it for two hours now - there must be an easy way?

 

Im thinking that maybe I should have attached the bracket to the chassis first, then jiggled about to get the long bolts in?

 

Ive attached a wee pic that hopefully helps visualise!

 

Any advice anyone?

Attached Files

•  mounting.jpg   67.4K   64 downloads

[js183379]

I can't help with the issue but I enjoy your Heisenberg profile pic.

[lrostoke]

Flat blade screwdriver through the hole if you have it that close..

[freaker]

as said above flathead screwdriver does the trick.

 

one of the essentials of the toolbox next to the hamer :)

[Algordo1100]

sub frame first loose, then engine, tighten all up.

 

?

Edited by Algordo1100, 16 May 2013 - 06:52 PM.

[The Principal]

probably the most annoying job on a mini

 

things to help -

 

• dont have the opposite engine mount under the clutch cover done up tight

• dont use the mounts with the captive nut

• use a round punch to line up one of the holes whilst you push the bolt from above through the engine mount with the nut underneath, should the combo become loose only the nut falls off

• Have the samaritans on standby

• Make sure no one can hear the swearing

• Buy plenty of beer to soften the frustration

• A large secrewdriver can assist in pushing the engine mount downwards

[Guess-Works.com]

Use a spike, not a screwdriver....

 

also, if you have a tie down strap handy and need to pull the engine down, put a loop over the radiator bracket and then from underneath pull down with a piece of 2x2 , or scaff pole or similar length of material against the subframe... Useful tip when putting in new engine mounts.

[1984mini25]

also drilling out the subframe bolt holes slightly and using large penny washers on the bolts.

 

Probably doesn't make much difference, but something I've always done is smear the back of the engine mount with grease to help it slide into place easier.

[A-Cell]

You are nearly there. As said use a spike to align the holes.
I use a thin smear of grease on the mount face to subframe to aid the sliding. I start with a spike, then finally use a 5/16 parallel pin punch to ensure holes fully aligned, then get my wife who has smaller fingers to put the bolts through (from the engine side). Especially on the clutch side!

[robminibcy]

 

also drilling out the subframe bolt holes slightly and using large penny washers on the bolts.

 

Probably doesn't make much difference, but something I've always done is smear the back of the engine mount with grease to help it slide into place easier.

 

I personally would recommend not drilling the subframe. there really is no need as a screwdriver and a bit of elbow grease is more than capable of getting the mounts in. Larger holes are vulnerable to rust and also for giving the bolt a bit of room to move about as every when done up very tight a severe bump whilst accelerating puts a lot of force through the engine mounts.

[A-Cell]

Nope, don't enlarge the holes.

[tiger99]

Remove one long bolt, and allow the bracket to pivot towards the engine. Jack the engine up or down until the mount is roughly in place on the subframe. It will not be parallel, but that will not matter yet. Line up the holes with a tapered pin, or punch, or screwdriver, and put the bolts in and fit nuts very loosely. They will go in, at a funny angle, because there is some clearance in the holes on both mount and subframe.

 

Then, gradually nip up the bolts to pull the mount into position as you adjust the height of the jack to get the long bolt hole to line up. Fit the long bolt, job done.

 

I assume that you have removed the grille, otherwise the long bolts are awkward.

[1984mini25]

 

 

also drilling out the subframe bolt holes slightly and using large penny washers on the bolts.

 

Probably doesn't make much difference, but something I've always done is smear the back of the engine mount with grease to help it slide into place easier.

 

I personally would recommend not drilling the subframe. there really is no need as a screwdriver and a bit of elbow grease is more than capable of getting the mounts in. Larger holes are vulnerable to rust and also for giving the bolt a bit of room to move about as every when done up very tight a severe bump whilst accelerating puts a lot of force through the engine mounts.

 

I was suggesting it more if the bolts were tight through the holes in the subframe (more so if you use metric m8 bolts) not as a solution to get the holes to line up.

[Earwax]

Some elongate the holes on the engine bracket  (rather than subframe) gives a little more play to get the spike into aligning mode.

 

also i have found , slight differences in where you jack the engine (with suitable block of wood etc) can make a difference   - both in height and in relative position  (similar to tiger 99)