15 replies to this topic

[GTIAlex06]

Slightly confussed over the difference in the ones on the market.

Anyone explain the different options and what is best fast road use?

Rose jointed or ...?

[cal844]

standard with standard bushes! rose jointed and adjustable are for track or rally use only.

[Artful Dodger]

Not rose jointed. That will be horrendously harsh and vibratey (is that a word?)

Personally, get fully adjustable bottom arms to get optimum tracking. But these are mucho de muny

The best bet would be 1.5' fixed standard type bottom arms with updated bushes. This will be best and relatively cheap

[petey81]

http://www.minispare...h/classic/lower arm.aspx|Back to search

 

get these

[Alex_B]

I have gone for the forged adjustables from minispares because lets face it I really dont like money it seems! 

fitting them tomorrow as it happens, but you wont want rosejointed ones, those are for the racetracks as they are very "vibratey" ;) also wont last long in all weathers, 

I also went for uprated fast road offset bushes too, in for a penny in for a pound  

[GTIAlex06]

Cheers that pretty much confirmed what I thought.

Are the fast road bushes preferable?

Also during fitting, is there anything else that I might need to replace? haven't had chance to look at how they fit yet.

[petey81]

yeah replace the tie bar nut/ bolt (lower arm end) as they can be a pig to remove later on. check ball joints other bushes and used a grease gun on those nipples!!

[Alex_B]

from what I can gather the fast road bushes are worth it, and they literally bolt through the weird wiggly lower arm pin ( technical term ;) ) and then into the lower ball joint on the hub, I have also gone for adjustable heavy duty tie rods due to the lower arms being longer than standard (if you are running neg camber that is ) then correcting the castor with the tie rod is important, and if you want mega camber you can get new track rod ends with longer pins but I havent gone for those due to only planning to run a degree of neg camber :) 

[GTIAlex06]

yeah I've done all the other changes including the different track rod ends.
so I won't need to remove the wiggly lower arm pin?

[Alex_B]

basically theres a nut on the lower pin, undo that, push the pin towards the front of the car, that releases the lower arm and the pin will also come out, but thats no issue, then install lower bushes into arm, start to install the lower arm pin insert through the arm , and push into place then install the lower balljoint pin, 

thats what i am gunna do anyway, seems the most logical and its not a tricky job :) 

[petey81]

basically theres a nut on the lower pin, undo that, push the pin towards the front of the car, that releases the lower arm and the pin will also come out, but thats no issue, then install lower bushes into arm, start to install the lower arm pin insert through the arm , and push into place then install the lower balljoint pin, 

thats what i am gunna do anyway, seems the most logical and its not a tricky job :) 

you forgot the tie bar nut/bolt which can be a pain, also ball joint splitter or hammer to break taper on lower ball joint nut. 

Edited by petey81, 13 May 2013 - 10:08 PM.

[Alex_B]

ahh thats true and the tiebar bolt isnt that hard just jack the suspension up a bit till the bolt clears the CV joint, and defo for a ball joint splitter,  I am buying one tomorrow as I couldnt split the joint without one 

[petey81]

There have been some horror stories on here lol. I had to cut one apart few years ago as seized in!!. And a pain to get a drill under. Machinemart for splitter only £10.

[Alex_B]

Ahh I replaced my tie rods 2 weeks ago so bolts are all fresh, the old ones were a bit of a pain but my cars very low mileage so want much of an issue, but yeah provided you have all the tools handy its a nice enough job :) 

[Dan]

  Remember that you don't fully torque the bottom arms until the car is sitting back on the ground with the suspension in a more normal position.