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Swivel Hub Removal


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#31 jaydee

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 09:13 PM

Looks like you're still on the original bearings, anyhow the noise can be caused by them gone dry, i'd expect you'll find out some very fine goldish dust when turning the rollers.

You always have to replace the conical washer.

Although i've fitted a bunch of bearings by directly fitting them with the conical washer, and never had a problem, i'd reccomend you to get hold of a big flat washer (the one mentioned in the hynes).

Your best way to deal with new bearings is to tighten up the hub with a flat whaser to allow correct seating of the hub and bearings on the outer CV. Hold the drive flange and spin it round a bit so the bearings can turn during the process of tightening. Let it torqued by the flat washer while you're having your tea, then undo the nut, remove the flat washer, fit the conical washer and torque up again.



#32 johnnyblaze

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 10:54 PM

Looks like you're still on the original bearings, anyhow the noise can be caused by them gone dry, i'd expect you'll find out some very fine goldish dust when turning the rollers.

You always have to replace the conical washer.

Although i've fitted a bunch of bearings by directly fitting them with the conical washer, and never had a problem, i'd reccomend you to get hold of a big flat washer (the one mentioned in the hynes).

Your best way to deal with new bearings is to tighten up the hub with a flat whaser to allow correct seating of the hub and bearings on the outer CV. Hold the drive flange and spin it round a bit so the bearings can turn during the process of tightening. Let it torqued by the flat washer while you're having your tea, then undo the nut, remove the flat washer, fit the conical washer and torque up again.

 

yes that works a treat a BIG washer dont cost much and is great to put in the tool cabinet, i have heaps of tools and then i have the mini tools in a cab by them selves , also a light smearing of a anti seize works wanders on anything , makes life that much easier when your pulling things apart, and its a mini youl be pulling it apart



#33 Spitz

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 12:37 AM

The big washer is used over top of the conical....then removed....or big washer without conical then removed?



#34 johnnyblaze

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 05:15 AM

WITHOUT



#35 tiger99

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 07:46 AM

I have had a look at your pictures, and think that the problem may have been caused by, first of all, the bearing spinning on the shaft because at some stage it was loose, which has caused some galling (maybe a previous owner then overtightened it to try to fix the problem?), and secondly, water got between the bearing and shaft, causing corrosion, which increased the shaft diameter at the outer end, making it very tight indeed to pull off, while it was probably still fairly loose in its normal position.

 

The bearings themselves have overheated, as has the CV shaft, but not badly enough to have been the initial problem.

 

I would recommend lots of grease (Castrol LM or equivalent, or the best wheel bearing grease available locally) on the shaft and splines during reassembly, as well as the bearings, where you will have put it, to help keep water out. It will not cause problems, as the drive torque is transmitted by friction between the face of the hub flange and the bearing stack (which is why the tightening torque for the nut needs to be so high), and by the cone washer, so the splines are normally unloaded and will not chatter or fret just because they are lubricated.






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