1498 replies to this topic

[Ben_O]

looks good ben. i had the same issue with the boot floor not lining up but mine is due to using a pattern repair panel and not the whole floor panel lol. glad the boot lip lined up everything will be in, in no time what so ever

Cheers.

 

I was going to do more today but i struggled so much to get the subframe in on my own that i couldn't get the momentum to take it back off again.

 

Ill try and get a couple of hours on it tomorrow afternoon and get the floor out and prepped 

[James_eaton_thewholething]

Rear subframes are a real pain part of the reason I'm going to coilovers. Plus mine is so badly rusted through that would need to get a second hand one. At least you know now it lines up

[mini_matt_106]

Ps. What gas are you using/would recommend?

Thankyou for the kind words mate.
 
I am using hobbyweld argon/c02 mix. As far as i can remember, it is a £50 refundable deposit for the bottle and then about £36 for a refil. You also need to get a regulator and conversion hose which costs up to £50 depending on what you get.
i can show you the regulator and hose i have if it helps.
 
Cheers
 
Ben

That would be great if you could, I think I remember seeing it on your trolly build pictures (great idea by the way, totally building one!) are they the bottles you can get on eBay?

[mini_matt_106]

Also, I watched a mini resto vid on YouTube last night and it looked shocking compared to the standard you work to! Filler everywhere!

[Ben_O]

Also, I watched a mini resto vid on YouTube last night and it looked shocking compared to the standard you work to! Filler everywhere!

I was watching another mini25 on ebay for sale and they had it as a classified ad but it was unfinished and they disclosed that it would be available once completed.

The pictures they put on eBay of the work in progress were a bit like that..

[Ben_O]

 

 

Ps. What gas are you using/would recommend?

Thankyou for the kind words mate.
 
I am using hobbyweld argon/c02 mix. As far as i can remember, it is a £50 refundable deposit for the bottle and then about £36 for a refil. You also need to get a regulator and conversion hose which costs up to £50 depending on what you get.
i can show you the regulator and hose i have if it helps.
 
Cheers
 
Ben

That would be great if you could, I think I remember seeing it on your trolly build pictures (great idea by the way, totally building one!) are they the bottles you can get on eBay?

 

This is the regulator

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item487c467c13

 

And this is the conversion pipe

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item23530da906

 

I get my gas from these guys http://www.hobbyweld.../find-an-agent/ Just put in your postcode and it will tell you the nearest stockist. Mine is a local builders merchant

[mini_matt_106]

Thanks, looks like pretty cheap stuff but if it does the job then I'll go for it! The nearest stockist to me is 15miles away, I know I can get similar stuff locally but it's expensive. Cheaper than having to get a pay monthly bottle of argoshield though!

Keep at it! Are you trying to get the panel work sorted before having to transport it? Then just tidying up welds after the move?

[Ben_O]

Thanks, looks like pretty cheap stuff but if it does the job then I'll go for it! The nearest stockist to me is 15miles away, I know I can get similar stuff locally but it's expensive. Cheaper than having to get a pay monthly bottle of argoshield though!

Keep at it! Are you trying to get the panel work sorted before having to transport it? Then just tidying up welds after the move?

It all works perfectly so can't grumble really.

 

For gas, try Adams gas. same sort of deal and they might have a nearer stockist?

 

I want to get the boot floor in, the n/s rear arch tub replaced and then hopefully the inner sill and quarter panel on the n/s.

 

Just over 2 weeks to go....

 

I'm right in the middle of prepping the boot floor now

[Ben_O]

It's been a very long afternoon but i am finally moving closer to a major milestone in the build.

 

Before i could progress,i needed to take the Subframe back out and the boot floor too.

 

 

 

Then i remembered i hadn't ordered any drill bits. so i took a walk round to Hurst's to see what they had. i only really needed a 6mm bit but at almost a fiver for one drill bit, i decided to go for this instead

 

 

 

nice draper ones, a bargain thought I. Then I noticed that the sticker on the tin was a bit peeled so i tore it back a bit and found this

 

 

cheeky buggers. i was in two minds whether or not to take it back but i thought i would give them a try. They are really good so will be staying.

 

Anyway, The first thing was to remove the battery earth clamp set nut from the old floor.

 

 

The new floor doesn't come with one so I carefully removed it, cleaned it up and zinc sprayed it

 

 

 

 

Whilst that dried, I made up a template for the fuel line hole in the floor to convert to the earlier single line type

 

 

And welded it it

 

 

 

I just need to drill the hole for the single fuel line now but at that point i was waiting for measurements from Neil before i could drill. (Thanks Neil for those)

 

In the mean time, i welded in the earth clamp captive nut holder thing

 

 

 

 

Next, I made up a few of these.

 

 

which go here

 

 

a splash of Zinc

 

 

Whilst that dried, i decided to drill the bumper holes in the new bumper lip i made. Before i dropped the floor out, i marked the position with a marker pen so all i needed to do was drill up from underneath with a small drill bit

 

 

Then a slightly bigger one

 

 

then the step cutter to the correct size

 

 

I did all three.

 

Then i drilled a load of 6mm holes every 20mm

 

 

probably a bit over kill but never mind.

 

Then i received the measurements for the fuel line hole so measured and drilled that

 

 

 

and that's the floor ready

 

 

Next i drilled the holes for plug welding on the lower rear bulkhead

 

 

Marked out

 

 

and drilled

 

 

Then it was time to put the boot floor back in

 

 

and in

 

 

 

 

secured with bolts through the bumper holes

 

 

 

After a bit of tweaking,it was fitting well but i noticed that i need to trim the bumper lip i made for the rear panel a bit one side

 

So marked it out

 

 

 

And ill trim it tomorrow.

it is important to have the 3 layers (bootfloor, back panel, rear valance) stepped so that you can get paint and sealer in. If they were all flush with one another, it would be difficult to seal the edges and water would creep in there in no time at all and rust it all out again.

 

Tomorrow, ill need to re-fit the subframe to check alignment again and then weld it all in.

 

A question for you though, How many wiring tabs should there be along the back edge of the boot floor? I have installed 5 and their location was determined by square dimples pressed into the back edge of the floor but there was only 5. it seems to me that there should perhaps be another on the left of this picture?? (blue square)

 

 

would someone be able to check please?

 

Cheers

 

Ben

[Carlos W]

I can't believe how much of the rear of the mini you have recycled.

 

I'm truly amazed

[Ben_O]

I can't believe how much of the rear of the mini you have recycled.

 

I'm truly amazed

Waste not, want not 

 

Whatever that means?? 

 

Cheers!

[RossKnight]

I can go out and check now at my boot tabs if you want?

[Ben_O]

I can go out and check now at my boot tabs if you want?

If it's ok mate?

 

that would be lovely

 

Cheers

[megamini_jb]

Wow! Fantastic work Ben. You make it all look so clean and easy. You're too good

[Ben_O]

Wow! Fantastic work Ben. You make it all look so clean and easy. You're too good

I wouldn't go that far mate!

 

it is all straightforward stuff really, just time consuming and the clock is ticking..

 

Cheers

 

Ben