
#1
Posted 21 April 2013 - 06:57 AM
I was originally going to just fit braided hoses all over to avoid having to bend and flair the pipes ect but then I seen the price and figured I could just get the kit needed for roughly the same price.
So a couple a questions pipe bending tool, any one got one of the cheap-o ones off ebay,from what I can see you just need to wrap the pipe around a radius, or is there more to it than that?
And the flaring tool I guess you can get sets, where did you guys get yours from and are they any good?
Trac
P.s while I'm here can someone let me know what diameter pipe I need, the end fitments/couplings and material that's legal in the uk, - I could look it up but seems as we're here.........
#2
Posted 21 April 2013 - 07:10 AM
Anyone used one? I don't have too many expectations for £11
Trac
#3
Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:12 AM
The problem is, some motor factors are selling cunnifer as copper brake lines!
You can tell the difference in the colour but I can't remember which is which!
#4
Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:15 AM
#5
Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:24 AM
I found this video on YouTube, ignor the fact he's a waffling American but it is quite useful he explains about the single and double flair you mentioned Ben
Trac
#6
Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:38 AM
#7
Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:43 AM
#8
Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:53 AM
Picture shows Kunifer at the top and copper at the bottom (picture from morrisminorowners)
Attached Files
Edited by FlyingScot, 21 April 2013 - 08:54 AM.
#9
Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:56 AM
Here's the right stuff I think
http://www.ebay.co.u...d=p5197.c0.m619
The only other thing I need to sort is the nuts that go on the end, I'm guessing there's only two options, metric and imperial? I think I've got a mix of both on my mini because I've fitted a servo and disc brakes to a mk3
Anyone know the metric and imperial sizes - and what the proper name is for the brake nuts :)
Trac
Edit - thanks guys, looks like I took too long writing my reply and you'd already replied
Edited by tractor, 21 April 2013 - 08:59 AM.
#10
Posted 21 April 2013 - 09:10 AM
The sizes used on the Classic Mini are.....................
3/8"unf
M10x1
M12x1 (Only Yellow tag master cylinder though)
However as above the majority are 3/8"unf
Also you have male, female and different seats so for each size you could have 4 combinations (except the M12x1 as there is only one type used)
Making a total of 9 different flare ends.
Would I be alright to double flare everything? Why are there different flare options?
Trac
#11
Posted 21 April 2013 - 10:20 AM
You are right about the colours. The only problem with this is if the copper is old stock, then it may be so dull it looks like cunifer! It can be a nightmare. Best bet is to buy from somewhere who sells a lot and who you can trust. An old trick I was told was that copper bends easily if you hold a bit between two hands but don't use your thumbs, cunifer won't. In practice I could only tell the difference when I had a piece of both!The type flaring tool with the clamp up die are the b***ocks they don't slip like the one piece ones. Cunifer has a blackis sort of finish it is copper and nickel I believe. Copper is a really bright almost pinky colour and extremely easy to bend.
#12
Posted 21 April 2013 - 10:38 AM
===== > >======= and ======< <====== and not === > <==== or =====< >======
#13
Posted 21 April 2013 - 11:40 AM
Trac
#14
Posted 27 June 2015 - 12:01 AM
Another thread resurrection!
Machine Mart sell a good flaring cutting set. It's the same kit as the one in the Youtube video above. Loads of manufacturers re-badge it, I wonder who originally made it.
https://www.machinem...RC-pipe flaring
Where is the best place to buy the Copper Nickel pipe and fittings ?
#15
Posted 27 June 2015 - 07:32 AM
I'd recommend the one that Frost does, actually a pair of tools, one imperial the other DIN (metric). You can use it in tight spaces on the car, but you can also clamp it in a vice (without the bolts) for speedy use off car. A small pipe bender is really useful for making a job that's not only neater, but less prone to fatigue as your lines will be that bit straighter and shorter between the supports.
Tip: doing the bolts up lightly makes a pipe straightening die out of your flarer, or you could drill a suitably sized hole in a block of wood to draw it through.
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