1604 replies to this topic

[ToM 2012]

thanks daz and trac im going for it got to learn somewhere... the last photos of my mini was done with a compressor and spray gun i mixed it my self its etch primer i used. i am going to finish of the welding do my fillering and etc and i am going to get it all in etch primer. not sure if you no all this but do i have to key every coat thats dryed for the next coat to go over the top? what grade sand paper do you use to key it up? if anything can you tell me the best stage by stage what to do to get it ready for top coat? thanks tom 

[Daz1968]

If you are planning to take your time with it then use epoxy primer as it will seal everything from moisture. I have painted my car and learnt a lot along the way. When I do the next one I won't use etch primer I will use epoxy primer.
All coats must be keyed before over coating if they are left longer than a few hours, a grey pad is all that's needed in most cases.

I would apply 1 or 2 coats of epoxy over the whole car,
Then mist a guide coat on and block sand to highlight problem areas using p320 paper dry on a large block I use abranet
Then fill and repair any areas required apply another coat of epoxy over the repaired areas and sand with use of a guide coat again.
Once you are happy entire car is done apply another guide coat and sand with p500 abranet dry using an interface pad on either da or hand sanding block.
You should then be ready to apply top coat of choice, epoxy is much better then cellulose high build as it doesn't sink and as it doesn't absorb moisture is ideal for home use and only requires a good filter mask.
Top coat is up to you, I have used cellulose before and this time wanted to use 2k direct gloss, it cost a bit to set up an airfed with correct filtration but I think it was worth it,

Edited by Daz1968, 13 July 2014 - 09:52 AM.

[ToM 2012]

thanks daz ile do just that. 

[Daz1968]

Another point is when filling pinholes and minor blemishes use upol gold as it a 2k glazing paste and is much better than cellulose stopper as once again it doesn't sink.

[ToM 2012]

hi just to let you all no my rear parcel shelf has just come back from my mate and i will be getting it welded in with the rear bulkhead this week almost done with the welding now can not wait lol cheers tom 

[ToM 2012]

Another point is when filling pinholes and minor blemishes use upol gold as it a 2k glazing paste and is much better than cellulose stopper as once again it doesn't sink.

thanks daz 

[ToM 2012]

hi can anyone help me on how the tank stand fits and where it lies on the bottom of the tank? i have just had a go and there is a pipe sticking down and the pipe is sitting on the boot floor i suppose there is suppose to be a hole for this pipe to pop threw the floor? here is some pictures so you can tell me what way it goes around thank you tom 

 

[Daz1968]

My 1962 has a hole in the floor where the tank drain plug is think its about 3/4 dia but would have to measure it.
Can be seen on this pic before I painted the inside of boot


I also found a link to the epoxy high build I have used on my bonnet
http://www.refinishs...LEpoxyPrimerKit
It's more expensive than 2k high build but as you don't need an etch primer and also don't need an airfed mask it not to bad.
Not tried any other brands but this one applies thick and sands very easy dry. Just need to find a cheaper supply in larger tins.

[ToM 2012]

thats excellent mate so once i have the hole sut out it will sit alot better. i dont suppose you no what side the tank stand is on as there is a seamed lip around the tank does it sit behind the seam so you can not see the stand or does it sit in front so you can see the stand when its fitted in place? cheers mate 

Edited by ToM 2012, 14 July 2014 - 08:10 PM.

[ToM 2012]

hi all just welded in the rear bulkhead and parcel shelf just need to clean the welds up and seam seal and etching prime to finish it off hoping to get this done tomorrow. i need to order some little panels from m machine but i am not sure if mk1 mini have rear arch stiffners that sit from the back of the bulkhead bottom corners to the rear arch? my mini has them and my other mini that i chopped up have them but these are later models can any one tell me if mk1 minis had them? i cant see them on dazes picture above. also does anyone have a picture of the metal mount that the fuel strap bolts two? so ino what one i am ordering or i could make it? thanks tom 

[Daz1968]

The panels you mention are on my mk2 but not the mk1 and this car was unmolested when I got it so am confident they aren't needed

[mk1leg]

wow you have come on along way since I last looked in......keep up the great work.........I wish I still had My mk1.......

[PNL629G]

I've just read through all 54 pages tonight..... what an epic, epic build! Looking great!

[ToM 2012]

hi rear bulkhead and parcel shelf finished and bootlid has been repaired i have fillered the rear panel parcel shelf and bootlid tonight and will be making my way around to the front. hoping to get all the fillering out the way this week and then weekend i should have my last few panels from m machine to fit. hoping to get it upside down in the next 2 weeks to start painting the underside and sealing it up. i do need some new doors if anyone noes where to get some good second hand ones from i cant find any at all on ebay.. thanks for looking.

 

 

[ToM 2012]

thanks daz 

thanks mk1 leg 

thanks pnl629g

Edited by ToM 2012, 28 July 2014 - 05:51 PM.