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Austin Mini Mk1 Super Deluxe Restoration


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#571 Daz1968

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Posted 20 April 2014 - 01:54 PM

The heel board is spot welded to boot floor and the rear quarters do sit on top as you have them, but I would hold fire on welding those until you put the wheel tubs in and repair rear panel so they all line up.

#572 ToM 2012

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Posted 20 April 2014 - 02:08 PM

The heel board is spot welded to boot floor and the rear quarters do sit on top as you have them, but I would hold fire on welding those until you put the wheel tubs in and repair rear panel so they all line up.

cheers mate i am right then thank god. i wasnt going to do them as yet but when i clamped them in place and i looked down the side of it the curve in really bad. its like the boot floor isnt wide enough. maybe once i have me rear panel on and the arches are in line it might be ok. cheers i am ordering my panels wednesday.. 



#573 ToM 2012

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 08:54 PM

little update been and brought spot welder this morning and got a few panels from himley mini show was gutted tho as i couldnt find a mk1 back panel so now have got to pay the extra for one from m machine in the morning. hopefully this week get my new floor welded in and fit a new top dash rail. thanks for looking updates coming soon.. 



#574 RossKnight

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 08:57 PM

Thought you'd given up ;)

 

 

How was Himley?



#575 Daz1968

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 09:02 PM

I went to himley as well not a bad show and weather held off, I only spent £100 but could of spent a lot more but not sure of everything I need yet. Back panel nos is hard to find though and a lot of new ones have wrong window in them.

#576 ToM 2012

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 09:03 PM

i did once lol. its having the time atm this week i really want to get stuck in to it tho.  i am aiming to get it in paint for the end of july at a push. himley was good got a few bits and bobs did you go? 



#577 RossKnight

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 09:05 PM

i did once lol. its having the time atm this week i really want to get stuck in to it tho.  i am aiming to get it in paint for the end of july at a push. himley was good got a few bits and bobs did you go? 

 

Ah good to hear!

 

Nah, bit of a trek for me, and I don't really need bits at the moment haha, I'd have wasted all my dosh! (and I was working -.-)



#578 ToM 2012

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Posted 13 May 2014 - 06:37 PM

now i have pritty much everything to start again is my floor ready for spot welding and in line? i have taken measurments from another mk1 shell and they are all the same. but just because they are doesnt mean the shell is in line with the subframes? both subframes are on. and all lines up pritty much with  boot floor in place i was thinking about putting the wheels on it and seeing if the wheels are in line with the shell? whats your thoughts? i dont want to rush this part as it will be a disaster if its crabing while on the road? any other ideas what i can do if you have been threw this before let me no thanks tom :) 



#579 rally515

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Posted 13 May 2014 - 06:46 PM

I would advise using the method of putting the subby's on axle stands and makeing sure its level everywere! with a spirit level, then measure from rear hub to front hub in a flat area and then measure the other side and  ajust alignment until equal down either side.

 

Although that could be in-accurate due to differences in the wear of the radius arm pins for example.

 

Best bet would be to measure off the subframes using the method above adn that will mean that your subframes are both inline with each other,.

 

I can draw i diagram if you dont understand the above Tom ? i learn 10 times better from doing than reading :)



#580 ToM 2012

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Posted 13 May 2014 - 06:55 PM

if you dont mind mate it would help me out a lot. i have already made loads of measurments and they are all the same so far. 



#581 rally515

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Posted 13 May 2014 - 07:43 PM



if you dont mind mate it would help me out a lot. i have already made loads of measurments and they are all the same so far. 

 

Not a problem Tom, jsut remember, measurements are good.......more is even better ;). Drawing yourself a little diagram on A3 paper of the floor and subframes and writing your measurements on one sheet will help tons for ease of reference.

 

Red lines are the various measurements and blue areas are the subbies.

 

When you mark out the measurements number or name the lines, using MOT chalk on the subframes i.e. A on the rear frame goes to the A marking on the front ect..

 

T2eC16NHJGQFFhsjtzhBRq2VkjrHg60_58_zps8b

fne_zps8d551077.png

 

If you dont get it or need more help PLEASE Tom just Ask!, id hate for you to do something slightly wrong and be kicking yourself afterwards because we couldn't advise the inevidable issues that come with a floor conversion.

 

Edit: Also i used a Vtec 4x4 mini rear shot as its the only full underbody picture i could find


Edited by rally515, 13 May 2014 - 07:43 PM.


#582 ToM 2012

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Posted 13 May 2014 - 07:54 PM

cheers cliff your a star! ile measure it like you have done above if they are all in line then do i just go for it and hope to god that it rolls straight? its more so the rear subframe that makes it looked crabbed? thanks tom 



#583 Vinmin

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Posted 14 May 2014 - 01:19 AM

Always take your measurments diagonally across the car i.e front offside to rear nearside & front nearside to rear offside. If the measurements are the same then the subframes are square with each other.



#584 ToM 2012

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Posted 14 May 2014 - 08:56 PM

hi well got measurements and subframes are ok. so made a start on passenger side spotwelding and what a ball ache it was i cant move in there the spot welder keeps blowing my fuse board so i am in and out flicking the switch! the side of the car looks s**t looks nice across untill right at the end of the rear quarter where it bends down to the bottom to join on to the boot floor bends in like a ducks arse. my arms feel heavy and lusterd man thanks god i got some cider here is some piccys comments welcome. 

 

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#585 Wise Old Elf

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Posted 14 May 2014 - 08:58 PM

My spot welder is proper heavy too. It gives you a good work out but you save time as you do not have to dress the welds.






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