1604 replies to this topic

[rally515]

dont suppose you can send me a piccy of yours mate? so i get a rough idea? thanks 

 

I,ve got one! haha

 

Stole from harrison's thread:

[ToM 2012]

lol mine is ok on the top half but its rotten from 5" up from the bottom. 

[ToM 2012]

mmm just thought maybe i could reuse the bottom half of the other one maybe...

[Daz1968]

Are you going to swap the tunnel over for the remote change gearbox as well, as for heel board I made a jig out of some 25mm box section and flat plates with the holes in correct position as I could easily lift it and leave in position while welding everything in. It is easier with just the ends being replaced as the opposite side helps to give a reference but it depends how rusty your panel is, mine was only rusty at ends and that was due to a bodged repair someone had done when changing subframe before.

Edited by Daz1968, 10 September 2013 - 09:29 PM.

[ToM 2012]

hi daz i will be changing the tunnel and cross member and anything else to make it look as original my toe board has totally gone and needs replacing all together i can see your only in dudley 10 mins away from me. 

[Daz1968]

Yes I used to work in Halesowen opposite the now closed comet, the factory is a go kart track now. If you need any pics of anything let me know as my 1962 mk1 deluxe is a bare primed shell at the moment, don't forget to save the spare wheel clamp off the boot floor and when you get sills get the m-machine ones. I also noticed my petrol tank has a drain plug and a hole in the boot floor in line with it. I was lucky with mine as it had little rust for its age.

[ToM 2012]

o yeh i know where you mean down the forge? by the college full of totty i member that road haha. well i might need pictures of how the fuel tank bolts in place and a few shots of the inside floor as when i got mine it had all rotted away and i had no idea what it used to be like. as its my second project and i am learning to weld at the same time its like i do something and im thinking should i be welding that part now or last kind of thing. cheers tom

[Daz1968]

No probs just send me a pm if you need anything as my floor is still original other than inner sills to first groove and my boot floor other than battery box and a few patches in the corners, I have a captivated nut built in the boot floor inside the valence closing panel, and my valance closing panels are not blocked off like later cars, I had to replicate the originals myself as I couldn't buy any the same. I know mine were original as they were still intact and valence was original. My front floor pans don't have the holes for the grommets either and that's how they were. My car is a 1962 and has no seatbelts, although there is a upper mount but in a different position to later cars and mine has grey fleck trim on seats but door panels and dash trim are green. Not sure if any different to a 1963 shell though, the front panel should also not have the brake cooling cut outs but these panels are available at m-machine and easy to fit.

[ToM 2012]

cheers daz i will send you a pm when i get to the stage when i am in the boot floor i am sure m machine do most panels tho but are expensive i dont have the skill to make panels so i will have to buy them or see if any pop up on here or ebay. thanks tom 

[ToM 2012]

done abit today put rear arch in and cut a lot more rust away give me your thoughts if this will work by getting the lining up from this floor panel to the mk1 shell? also i have tested the mk1 sills and where the old jacking point is on the floor it doesnt line up with the hole on the sill panel? is there another way around this? also i can not do the sills as yet as i dont no if it will be in line with the shell when i drop it on the top? so i am kinda stuck and could do with your advise on what you would do next so i can get the mk1 shell on top of the floor temperately and just tack everything into place and do the full welding last once its all in line? thanks tom

 

 

[rally515]

Could i hav some better photos of your shells at present Tom to see where you're upto ? the outer sill's are the last job to be honest so put them to the back of the panel pile and forget about them for now.

 

Your next step would be to sort out all the mating surfaces ready to weld them together (i.e cut out replace rust ect.. on the front floor section of the donor shell, boot seem, inner sill top edges were you,ve drilled through need to be welded up so as you can then drop the mk1 shell ontop and spot weld in place on the doors and genraly working your way round, be sure to check the alignment before welding by clamping it in place fully everywere! and then spot weld whilst removing the clamps as you go along.

 

There are numorous areas i,ve probably missed for cleaning up which you'll obviously see before welding...like the rear parcel helf/bulkhead to boot floor surface flange, flitch panels, wheel arches on the mk1 shell ect... you'll see how it makes sense when you,ve done the above and have a couple people give you lift on & over whilst you or someone else gets it slotted in the right place.

[ToM 2012]

hi mate i have cut one sill of allready and was thinking about welding that in place but i wont no where to weld to after i fort about it i am going to brace the mk1 shell up as much as i can this morning and then cut out my rear seat and etc and drop it on top of this to give me a ruff idea and then start dropping panels on and just tack them in place while i get it all lined up. ile get you some piccys today of what it is. thanks tom

[ToM 2012]

cut away the rear seat bulkhead and rear bins today here is some piccys.. 

 

 

 

 

[rally515]

I thought you'd fitted the doorsteps in tom ? well seeing as you're at that stage i'd advise you to get the doors mounted and doorsteaps welded in, to do that though you'll need to first sort out the A-panels and then mount the doors on there hinges, fitting the doors will allow you to align the doorste up from the inside whilt the door stays hut at all times so now you repeat on the other side and then the shell WILL be lined up correctly once you have it dropped ontop of the floor pan and slotted up on the floor pan to toe board join.

 

If i havn't explained well please say so

Cheers,

Cliff

 

Also: You'll need to be sorting this out, the boot hinge panel (Here: http://www.minispare...h/classic/Hinge panel.aspx|Back to search)

Doesn't exist on your mk1 so you'll need the above panel but weldiing ths panel in will mean (like the doors) you'l have to mount the boot lid on its hinges whilst tacking in place as the alingment needs to be bob on before you start welding

[ToM 2012]

hi cliff i have emailed m machine what panels i want and i havent received nothing back from them as i wanted the door post stiffner i was going to put on a new rear panel if i could as its rotton on the top half to. cant really do anything to it untill panels come but i have put it in valuation area to see what it is worth as i might be selling it as i havent really got the time to work on it what do you think it is worth all together or splitting? thanks tom