Nice work! Brilliant stuff so far. I guess your going to drop the mk1 shell onto the mk4 once it's prepped and welded?
And meant to say the parts you sent are great. Your better at packing than M machine and that's going some!!!
Posted 02 September 2013 - 06:24 PM
Nice work! Brilliant stuff so far. I guess your going to drop the mk1 shell onto the mk4 once it's prepped and welded?
And meant to say the parts you sent are great. Your better at packing than M machine and that's going some!!!
Posted 02 September 2013 - 09:23 PM
Nice work! Brilliant stuff so far. I guess your going to drop the mk1 shell onto the mk4 once it's prepped and welded?
And meant to say the parts you sent are great. Your better at packing than M machine and that's going some!!!
thanks mate well thats the plan anyway and the cheapest option for me to do. i dont think it will look any different once its all finished and painted up plus the money i have saved will go towards getting the running gear done. i made sure they wasnt going to get damaged as they just chuck them around. cheers tom
Posted 07 September 2013 - 07:06 PM
bit of a update chopped the bulkhead and passenger door step of and got the subframes of and stripped ready for the new panels to go on i will replace rear arches two corners of rear floor 2 sills and inner along with two front floor panels from what i can see so far. once thats done i will get the mk1 tunnel in place and cross member. the only thing i am thinking about it the rear seat panel as the mk1 is different with the hole fitted and the back panel where you mount the rear subframe to the bolts have snapped any ideas on how to redo that bit with lining the subframe up? thanks tom
Posted 07 September 2013 - 07:17 PM
looking good there tom!
Ben
Posted 07 September 2013 - 07:19 PM
Looking good tom, I'm not sure if there is any other difference in the rear bulkhead other than the hole, if thats it then you could cut out the mk1 and weld it onto the other one. For the rear subframe draw a line on the heel board (where the bolts mount) and take some measurements to the holes then you can clamp the new peice on to the right measurements, tack it on and check again, if it's not right just grind off the tacks. Or you can make a jig like a dummie subframe, a piece of bar in from both mounts and two bolt holes either side, that you can then bolt on to check if it's right.
Posted 07 September 2013 - 07:26 PM
thanks ben.
alex the lines that are moulded in the panel are different to the mk1 so i am thinking shall i buy a new one of those but im not sure on price. i was thinking about cutting the whole out and welding it in but it might look a mess? and seems a good idea to make something up or i have seen this done. can i bolt the new heel board to the subframe bolt it on position at the back and then tack it in place? would that be easier to do? thanks
Posted 07 September 2013 - 07:31 PM
If the bolts haven't snapped flush with the heal board, hammer a nut onto the what's left so its a snug fit and then weld it with as much heat as possible. Hopefully you then be able to remove it with the heat helping to loosen it or you could drill out the bolts and and re-tap the holes.
Posted 07 September 2013 - 07:36 PM
What condition is the heelboard in? Are you replacing the whole lot or just the ends? I don't think it would be as easy to do it with a subframe attached, but if you're fitting a whole new heelboard then it would probably be the best way.
Posted 07 September 2013 - 07:39 PM
If the bolts haven't snapped flush with the heal board, hammer a nut onto the what's left so its a snug fit and then weld it with as much heat as possible. Hopefully you then be able to remove it with the heat helping to loosen it or you could drill out the bolts and and re-tap the holes.
hi mate the bolt have snapped flush and inside where the bolts screw into they snapped loose so they are going to have to be renewed do i just tack a bolt on to the back of the new heel board? thanks tom
Posted 07 September 2013 - 07:40 PM
What condition is the heelboard in? Are you replacing the whole lot or just the ends? I don't think it would be as easy to do it with a subframe attached, but if you're fitting a whole new heelboard then it would probably be the best way.
it knackered mate i might aswell put a brand new one on for what it is thanks tom
Posted 07 September 2013 - 07:46 PM
What condition is the heelboard in? Are you replacing the whole lot or just the ends? I don't think it would be as easy to do it with a subframe attached, but if you're fitting a whole new heelboard then it would probably be the best way.
it knackered mate i might aswell put a brand new one on for what it is thanks tom
I would fit the subframe with the heelboard attached if it can be held in the right place fairly easily, Then you can tack it on take off the subframe and finish welding it on. I think the new heelboard come with the nuts attached, I would weld right the way around them to make sure they don't come off and turn.
Posted 07 September 2013 - 07:50 PM
cheers mate will get it on order.
Posted 07 September 2013 - 08:05 PM
can anyone tell me please what sills i will need? any mk1s will do? also do the petrol tanks bolt the same as the later minis? strap over and bolt to the little bracket or was they different brackets they used? thanks tom
Posted 10 September 2013 - 07:54 PM
can anyone tell me please what sills i will need? any mk1s will do? also do the petrol tanks bolt the same as the later minis? strap over and bolt to the little bracket or was they different brackets they used? thanks tom
No you will need to use the old one from the mk1 rear seat panel..........great build thread.....it will be well worth all the effort in the end..............
Edited by mk1leg, 10 September 2013 - 07:55 PM.
Posted 10 September 2013 - 09:00 PM
dont suppose you can send me a piccy of yours mate? so i get a rough idea? thanks
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