
Show Us Your Tamiya Rc Mini
#31
Posted 22 April 2013 - 07:22 PM
#32
Posted 22 April 2013 - 08:37 PM
#33
Posted 24 April 2013 - 10:24 PM
#34
Posted 25 April 2013 - 06:19 AM
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item589d7b036a
No modifications, just some grippier tyres and a electronic speed controller... Some one on the Modelsport Forum tried running their mini on a brushless system, wheels just spun it just couldn't put the power down. Wether some lead weights in tyre's would make any difference I don't know...
And yes, the motor size is 540

Edited by brum,brum,mike, 25 April 2013 - 06:20 AM.
#35
Posted 25 April 2013 - 07:27 AM
#36
Posted 25 April 2013 - 07:37 AM








List of things it needs:
- New body shell (already have new one, may need another as I have ruined this one cutting it out)
- New Radial tyres
- New reciever (have the crystal installed on the car)
- New battery
- New oil filled shocks (these ones are quite stiff)
- Fix radio atenna on on car
- New hop up parts
- Complete dismantle and respray/clean up of parts
- Tamiya Racing Green and Racing White Spray paint

#37
Posted 25 April 2013 - 03:37 PM
This is the motor we got -
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item589d7b036a
No modifications, just some grippier tyres and a electronic speed controller... Some one on the Modelsport Forum tried running their mini on a brushless system, wheels just spun it just couldn't put the power down. Wether some lead weights in tyre's would make any difference I don't know...
And yes, the motor size is 540
Thanks Mate will be getting one over the weekend hopefully, what's out there in the way of shocks?Here's one more pic.


#38
Posted 25 April 2013 - 03:49 PM
#40
Posted 27 April 2013 - 03:30 PM
Will hopefully be the proud owner of one of these later
#41
Posted 27 April 2013 - 07:44 PM
Will hopefully be the proud owner of one of these later
Good stuff get some pics up when you do, could do it up to look like your park lane
#42
Posted 28 April 2013 - 11:12 PM
A completely standard mo3 I bought a few years back in a hobby craft clearance sale, brand new for £60 and then painted up to look like my full sized 25. the paint is hycote acrylic cans to match the exact colours, although as it's not the correct paint it has started to chip.


Did I hear anyone mention hop-ups? last summer I was on the lookout for another one I could actually play with without fear of damaging the 25 replica body. so for £35 I bought a used mo3 that apparently hadn't been used much and only needed a radio set. But after stripping it down for a general clean and check over I found just about everything apart from the rear chassis half and some of the screws were all scrap, even the gears had no teeth left.
But after another search through eBay a week later I was able to pick up a complete chassis built from all new parts and enough spares to build at least another 3 for £15 less that the pile of plastic scrap I'd previously bought. One thing lead to another and I ended up buying yet more parts on eBay and ended up with enough parts to build 2 fully working mo3's, but one with a few little extras.
So far it has a set of 3 racing shocks, on road tuned spring kit, stronger front steering arms and hubs in blue chrome. Full set of ball bearings (original grease flushed out with brake cleaner and then oiled with wd40) hollow carbon shafts, reinforced gear set, 1.5degree toe in rear uprights again in blue chrome, front and rear sway bars and blue alloy servo mounts.
At the moment it’s only running a 20turn motor with standard gearing, but on a nice open smooth car park it has more than enough power to spin the front tyres.
But the most expensive item has to be the body. I found a new old stock one tucked away in a local model shop for £25 with the stickers; they normally go for £35 on ebay. I then probably spent (had a few left over half used cans) that again just on the paint. The multicolour union jack roof was all hand masked and sprayed up with cans and then finished off with white pinstripe tape. The blue also got a light backing coat of metallic purple and then black, so in some lights the blue has a slightly deep blue/purple look to it. Although because of the time and money that’s gone into the shell I’ve since bought a cheaper one and just painted it up in a standard green and white roof combo.









Edited by 1984mini25, 28 April 2013 - 11:15 PM.
#43
Posted 29 April 2013 - 04:59 PM
Nice job on the 25 shell , been out a got the Tamiya RS-540 Sport Tuned Motor (bloody quick
) took it out for a spin with a new shell and then rolled it!
So iv dug out thunderbird 2 from the attic this ones got a problem when driving it will ramondly steer left by itself any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.
Will
#44
Posted 29 April 2013 - 08:25 PM
A few pics of my collection...
A completely standard mo3 I bought a few years back in a hobby craft clearance sale, brand new for £60 and then painted up to look like my full sized 25. the paint is hycote acrylic cans to match the exact colours, although as it's not the correct paint it has started to chip.
Did I hear anyone mention hop-ups? last summer I was on the lookout for another one I could actually play with without fear of damaging the 25 replica body. so for £35 I bought a used mo3 that apparently hadn't been used much and only needed a radio set. But after stripping it down for a general clean and check over I found just about everything apart from the rear chassis half and some of the screws were all scrap, even the gears had no teeth left.
But after another search through eBay a week later I was able to pick up a complete chassis built from all new parts and enough spares to build at least another 3 for £15 less that the pile of plastic scrap I'd previously bought. One thing lead to another and I ended up buying yet more parts on eBay and ended up with enough parts to build 2 fully working mo3's, but one with a few little extras.
So far it has a set of 3 racing shocks, on road tuned spring kit, stronger front steering arms and hubs in blue chrome. Full set of ball bearings (original grease flushed out with brake cleaner and then oiled with wd40) hollow carbon shafts, reinforced gear set, 1.5degree toe in rear uprights again in blue chrome, front and rear sway bars and blue alloy servo mounts.
At the moment it’s only running a 20turn motor with standard gearing, but on a nice open smooth car park it has more than enough power to spin the front tyres.
But the most expensive item has to be the body. I found a new old stock one tucked away in a local model shop for £25 with the stickers; they normally go for £35 on ebay. I then probably spent (had a few left over half used cans) that again just on the paint. The multicolour union jack roof was all hand masked and sprayed up with cans and then finished off with white pinstripe tape. The blue also got a light backing coat of metallic purple and then black, so in some lights the blue has a slightly deep blue/purple look to it. Although because of the time and money that’s gone into the shell I’ve since bought a cheaper one and just painted it up in a standard green and white roof combo.
Where did you get the stickers from for the 25?
#45
Posted 29 April 2013 - 08:28 PM
Providing the steering/hubs aren’t binding up and are free to move. I’d be checking for radio interference, like a nicked wire or even trying another set of crystals.Nice job on the 25 shell
, been out a got the Tamiya RS-540 Sport Tuned Motor (bloody quick
) took it out for a spin with a new shell and then rolled it!
So iv dug out thunderbird 2 from the attic this ones got a problem when driving it will ramondly steer left by itself any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.
Will
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