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What's The Best Place To Lift The Engine In


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#46 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 11:05 PM

 

I think the point i was edging towards is that everything works until the moment it drops on the slam panel. I'm pretty sure that the rocker shaft wouldn't appreciate the treatment either.

Seems a shame when you have a pretty little car like that not to buy a cheap pull lift - I've got a little Yale lift rated at 600Kg single sheaved that is perfect for lifting mini engines....safely. It didn't cost very much either.

 

I bet you had fun getting that clear of the front panel.....

 

I agree about the poor rocker shaft being under excessive load....... :ohno:

 

It is only a hollow shaft and I think you could put a set in it quite easily....



#47 PurpleXrA1NX

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 09:12 AM

I'm sorry about the rocker shaft but the engine was coming apart anyway and I had seen it done like that on here before so I copied them

#48 JustSteve

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 09:24 AM

Saw this on Ebay. I have never seen an engine lifted like this; I am surprised it did not strip the threads.

 

$(KGrHqV,!lcFFzE1-LHBBRkOV+Qc1g~~60_12.J

 

That's the official way of lifting an a-series!!! 

 

in some cars they were hoisted in like this and they left the brackets on. Me and dad have been doing this for the last 25 years with some BL brackets ''borrowed'' from the MOD  :lol:



#49 mini-luke

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 09:47 AM

If I remember correctly the allowable tensile load for a 5/6'' UNC thread is in excess of 5000lbs so I don't think it's going to pull out the stud



#50 PurpleXrA1NX

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 10:19 AM

WHO HAS THE ACTUAL ANSWER TO THIS THREAD !!!!! FOR GOD SAKES



#51 JustSteve

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 10:46 AM

WHO HAS THE ACTUAL ANSWER TO THIS THREAD !!!!! FOR GOD SAKES

 

The best place, is to lift WITH BRACKETS from the front cylinder head studs because they rock the engine into the correct position (pulls diff housing clear from subframe).

 

The second best alternative is the rocker studs, they were used originally on some a-series engines, but they pull the engine 'straight' 

 

 

 

 

Here's a picture of a b-series (a lot heavier but same size studs) with the lifting brackets left on. if they lifted b-series engine's they're fine for the a-series.

 

engine.jpg



#52 mab01uk

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 11:54 AM

Although the A & B inline engines with brackets attached were rarely lifted out with the heavy gearbox attached unlike transverse units.......I will stick with using two of the front cylinder head studs on a Mini, which as said also lifts things at the correct angle to clear diff from subframe.

#53 JustSteve

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 12:07 PM

Although the A & B inline engines with brackets attached were rarely lifted out with the heavy gearbox attached unlike transverse units.......I will stick with using two of the front cylinder head studs on a Mini, which as said also lifts things at the correct angle to clear diff from subframe.


That is a very good point, which I hadn't considered,but ive just done a search and the b-series w/o box weighs over 150kg- more than the a-series and box!

#54 mad mk1

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 12:15 PM

I just use to bits of old abseiling rope all the way around the engine on both sides, I just make sure its down the back on the Cv jonts Never had any dramas..



#55 lrostoke

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 12:33 PM

This reminds me of a topic on the old BMC forum, went on for about 2 weeks somebody asking what brackets and how to lift :) I kept thinking jeez could have had it out by now :)

 

I wrap a rope round the clutch cover and under other side engine mount, join 2 loops in the middle...I do remove things like starter motor and manifold and dizzy, alternator  first just to give more clearance



#56 jaydee

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 01:00 PM

WHO HAS THE ACTUAL ANSWER TO THIS THREAD !!!!! FOR GOD SAKES

 

Please stop shouting and READ the firsts replies of this thread:

 

 

 


You have to lift it from the two central cylinder head studs.
This is safer and allows you to move the engine out of the bay without damaing anything.

 

 



#57 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 09:11 AM

If I remember correctly the allowable tensile load for a 5/6'' UNC thread is in excess of 5000lbs so I don't think it's going to pull out the stud

 

It's not the stud that is the problem....what screws onto the stud?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

$(KGrHqFHJEwFGTdvsbEfBRmjszKCK!~~60_35.J


Edited by Captain Mainwaring, 29 May 2013 - 09:16 AM.


#58 HUBBA.HUBBA

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 03:48 PM

Mine came out like this:IMG_0675.jpgAnd went back in like this:IMG_0829.jpg


Thread revival alert.

Looking to use the L brackets to lift the motor. The studs on the picture look a lot longer than normal. Am I missing something? Don't think i would have enough meat on the ARP stud to fit a bracket and another nut on.

Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 23 September 2017 - 03:48 PM.


#59 Ian Bloggs

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 08:34 AM

Wasn't up for buying a crane so I bought an £18 winch off of Fleabay, supported the garage beam with a fence post and wrapped the winch around the roof beam. Came straight out.



#60 HUBBA.HUBBA

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 10:37 AM

Got a crane. Just need to know about the studs to attach it to.




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