And to be doubley sure its the firing stroke, look at the timing marks on the pully, they should be fairly close, (in line)
23 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 25 March 2013 - 04:53 PM
#17
Posted 25 March 2013 - 04:55 PM
That's brilliant you two, thanks!
#18
Posted 25 March 2013 - 06:14 PM
Done this and got it right on the rockers, the position of the rotor arm was correct on the second rotation. The battery is dead i think, because its only showing 3-6 volts.
Another question, after every attempt of turning it over, do i have to set the static timing again?
Another question, after every attempt of turning it over, do i have to set the static timing again?
#19
Posted 25 March 2013 - 07:05 PM
no once the dizzy is clamped it won't move.
#20
Posted 25 March 2013 - 09:08 PM
That battery is probably unrecoverable if it's that low.
#21
Posted 25 March 2013 - 11:42 PM
My brother is getting a new battery tomorrow, another concern is the fueling.
There is fuel inside his inline fuel filter (in between the fuel pump and carb) but it's only half full. Also the fuel pipe is quite long, would shortening it be of any help? Also would a good check to see if fuel is coming through to the carb be, to crank the engine over with the fuel pipe disconnected?
Many thanks,
Iain.
There is fuel inside his inline fuel filter (in between the fuel pump and carb) but it's only half full. Also the fuel pipe is quite long, would shortening it be of any help? Also would a good check to see if fuel is coming through to the carb be, to crank the engine over with the fuel pipe disconnected?
Many thanks,
Iain.
#22
Posted 26 March 2013 - 12:22 AM
The fuel filter can have air in it. That's OK. What's important is that fuel moves into the carb float bowl. If in doubt, remove the hose from the carburetor, place the open end of the hose in a catch bucket and turn the engine over on the starter. If fuel pumps into the bucket the pump is working. Next you will have to determine if the fuel is getting into the carb float bowl. That is best determined once you know the timing is right.
If you have the timing close, the engine will try to fire when there is fuel. I believe you said you have electronic ignition. Is it the factory OEM ignition or an aftermarket kit? Some aftermarket kits can be static timed. Let us know which dizzy you have.
If you have the timing close to correct you can tip a thimble of gasoline down the carb throat and turn the engine over on the starter. If the engine fires briefly and dies, you have a fuel delivery problem. If your pump test above said the pump was working, that indicates a probable blockage of the float valve.
If you have the timing close, the engine will try to fire when there is fuel. I believe you said you have electronic ignition. Is it the factory OEM ignition or an aftermarket kit? Some aftermarket kits can be static timed. Let us know which dizzy you have.
If you have the timing close to correct you can tip a thimble of gasoline down the carb throat and turn the engine over on the starter. If the engine fires briefly and dies, you have a fuel delivery problem. If your pump test above said the pump was working, that indicates a probable blockage of the float valve.
#23
Posted 26 March 2013 - 10:39 AM
Thank you for clearing up the issues with the fuel. Yes it's a factory OEM electronic distributor.
#24
Posted 26 March 2013 - 12:07 PM
I don't think the factory electronic ignition can be static timed. This is where I have to bow-out. Hopefully others can tell you how to get the distributor "close enough" for starting the engine after which you can dynamically time it.
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