Vanny My 1961 Mini Van
#16
Posted 01 April 2013 - 10:56 AM
#17
Posted 01 April 2013 - 05:22 PM
#18
Posted 04 April 2013 - 06:46 PM
thought i'd have a got at making some repair bits..save a bit and means i can still get on with things..
my atemped at a toe board repair pan needs a bit more work but i think it'll work..
got a few more bit's i might be able to make myself while i wait for my other floor pan and new front end to turn up..
another example of the "proffesional" repairs carried out when i brought it that and part of the floor was made of masking tape and filler covered in 5mm of underseal inside and out... Dam sure i wont be dealing with that "H..... classic mini" place just outside Reading again...
Edited by minbin 69, 04 April 2013 - 06:56 PM.
#19
Posted 05 April 2013 - 11:33 PM
started having a clear up ready to roll her over to do the other side of the floor(once i get the panels) 1 wheely bin full later i found the floor
and the rear valance so i fitted that to...
so i'm out of panels and metal...what to do...ummmmm ok time to be brave and start on the engine strip down...so after draining the black slugh that once was oil we started....the water ways are full of rust and crap...the pistons and valves are caked in black stuff..so how do i get rid of that?
#20
Posted 06 April 2013 - 04:17 AM
But be careful not to go onto the mating surfaces of the head to block as these need to be kept 100% flat & true of each other
#21
Posted 06 April 2013 - 08:33 AM
#22
Posted 06 April 2013 - 02:53 PM
thanks rally..though it was carbon but didn't want to sound stupid just wasn't sure if that would damage the faces of the valves and pistions..i will be stripping both the head and block down fully..just have to be a bit careful with the head then
Haha yeah dont worry, we all are daft in are own ways .
To be honest its the cleaning of the pistons which is the hardest as they sit flush with the block & more importantly you dont want any crappy carbon in the gap between the piston & bore so maybe use some thinners & a air blower to clear any left over crap out post de-carbonising .
May i also advise wire wheeling the head before you take the valves out as it'l be much easyer that way.
#23
Posted 06 April 2013 - 07:47 PM
as for the valves i did them in place (lack of compression spring tool) and after your coment about the faces i left the old head gasket on just for a bit of protection against drill slips
look a bit better...is that how they should look or do i need to keep going?
#24
Posted 06 April 2013 - 07:51 PM
#25
Posted 06 April 2013 - 07:58 PM
#26
Posted 07 April 2013 - 05:41 PM
the fact is i ordered a flywheel puller last night off ebay..and yes some of you will know where this is heading...
my mate said hit it from behind through the starter motor hole..keep turning it and it'll come off..then some idoit managed to clip the housing and take a chunk out of it... :!: yes the air turned blue.....
So now my Question is are the flywheel housings the same for the different engine sizes? cause i have one that came off either a 998 or 1098 engine anybody know?
#27
Posted 07 April 2013 - 05:55 PM
#28
Posted 07 April 2013 - 05:59 PM
#29
Posted 07 April 2013 - 06:06 PM
Would have left it to be honest but it was into the gasket area so thought best to get it tigged, come to think of it he must have even sanded/filed the gasket mating surface down for me .
#30
Posted 07 April 2013 - 06:13 PM
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