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Oil Sump Washer


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#1 TehMarchant

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 02:47 PM

so I need to do an oil change and I will need a new sump washer, Are these univesal over all cars, if not what size will I need to get one from my local car shop?

#2 maccers

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 02:49 PM

Buy the correct size washer when you are, I assume buying the correct oil filter too from a mini / classic car specialist like Moss or Mini Spares.

#3 TehMarchant

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 02:57 PM

Will I need an oil filter special to the mini, I thought thet would all be the same for older cars? Aslong as it is a spin on manual?

#4 TehMarchant

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 03:04 PM

Okay, dont worry about this thread, I may aswell do it properly and get it all from miniSpares.

Thanks for the help fella <3

#5 Ethel

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 03:16 PM

You can anneal the original washer if it's not too chewed up. Some replace it with a plastic washer or dowty seal that require less torque so are less likely to result in stripped threads.

#6 dklawson

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 04:15 PM

There is an alternative. Buy a "Dowty" washer. It's a bonded rubber-metal seal. Buy one for 3/8" pipe or a 14mm oil drain plug. The 14mm seal will be a bit tight but will go over the plug's threads by "screwing it on".

The advantage of the bonded seal is that it requires VERY little torque to seal and therefore over the life of your car there is less chance of stripping/damaging the threads in the sump.

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#7 maccers

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 05:07 PM

Would these help keep more oil in too?

#8 Cooperman

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 05:10 PM

Well, it won't leak if that's what you are asking.

#9 maccers

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 05:44 PM

Seals better than a usual copper washer? Mine is leaking past the recent helicoil so I am looking for something to stop the cold oil leaking out. PTFE tape? Or some other thread lock?

#10 03jkirk

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 07:32 PM

the oil should be sealed in by the copper washer, that is what it is there for so either replace the copper washer with new 1 or 1 of the dowty washers that where mentioned earlier or anneal the old washer (heat up till glowing then quench) if it is in good condition

#11 dklawson

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 08:49 PM

Where you have already installed a HeliCoil, the Dowty washer probably is not going to work well. The HeliCoil tap is larger than the normal drain plug hole so the rubber on the Dowty seal probably isn't going to land on a flat surface with a HeliCoil in it.

The copper washer is probably your best choice after fitting a HeliCoil... however, you could try a 14mm nylon washer instead as it will crush easier than copper to create the seal.

Edited by dklawson, 18 March 2013 - 08:55 PM.


#12 MRA

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 09:51 PM

Seals better than a usual copper washer? Mine is leaking past the recent helicoil so I am looking for something to stop the cold oil leaking out. PTFE tape? Or some other thread lock?


Iv'e seen a few Helicoiled gearbox/transmission units and to be honest, unless you can get them within a very tight tolerance then they will often leak, one I saw was a few degrees out and the copper washer was never hoing to seal.

the oil should be sealed in by the copper washer, that is what it is there for so either replace the copper washer with new 1 or 1 of the dowty washers that where mentioned earlier or anneal the old washer (heat up till glowing then quench) if it is in good condition


Even annealing will not always cure this leak path potential :-(

#13 maccers

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 10:00 AM

Thanks guys, as mentioned above the drain plug does not screw as tight as before the helicoil. I even bought a new drain plug thinking it was that but its still loose until right at the end it grips, lets me tighten to correct torque but leaks cold oil past the plug. When I say cold, the engine has not ran since January and its still leaking about 10ml a day.




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