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Frozen Water In Engine!


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#16 MrBounce

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 08:22 PM

I had the same thing happen to my GT about 15 years ago (the freezing bit, not the fan belt bit). I left it to thaw (helped with a fan heater too) and then replaced the water with a 50/50 mix of blue glycol & water. No problems at all - not even a core plug. I would suggest you do the same but replace the fan belt & water pump.

#17 MRA

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 08:37 PM

You don't need a fan heater, think of the safety issues with getting 240v to the frozen car outside in the frozen, frosty, snowy etc outdoors, its a fatality waiting to happen please do NOT use an electric heater outside.

You have a heater sitting there ie the engine !

#18 mini13

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 08:45 PM

yep run the engine for a little, keep an eye on the temerature gauge, run for a few mins then leave for half an hour and repeat. the water pump should free off quite quickly, put a belt on and continue.

the heat from the engine will melt the water in the rad after a bit. once the rad is warm put some antifreeze in and runn it for a couple of mins .

#19 1984mini25

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 08:46 PM

Same thing happened to a project of mine that was left in the garage a few years back, the only damage once it thawed out was soaked carpets. But then the heater matrix was on it's last legs anyways.
Although at the time the mini that was left outside under a foot of snow, was completely fine. Either that or the garage is colder inside than it is outside.

#20 Jaydee88

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 09:23 PM

Guys you are all awesome!!
I was completely worried id need a new engine til I read all your replies. I hope im lucky to get away with not needing much as im not too clued up with the more complex bits of it!
ive just got back home and checked the rad and all the ice has thawed after putting that antifreeze in earlier and the hose was squishy (technical word!) so the ice had melted in there too.
I just hope the weather warms up tomorrow while im at work so I can sort it when I get home. how would I know if its all thawed and safe to start up? I dont want to damage it further after fitting new fanbelt and starting it up.
trouble is... my temp gauge hasnt worked properly for a while... jumps up and down all the time and my heater is more like aircon and never actually warms up... any ideas what that could be?
see sometimes the temp gauge will go up but after a while it will stop working and drop back down so i dont know if I can rely on that to tell me if its over heating! its stayed up on long trips like when we went to santa pod for MITP but the heater still never worked? it used to work many moons ago though.
Needless to say that this winter I was actually warmer outside of my car than i was inside it!!
Xxxxxx

#21 mini13

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 09:38 PM

well, if you can spin the rad fan waterpump by hand then you should have no probs with a belt on there.

if most of the ice has melted thers no immediate danger, leave the antifreeze in ther over night and it will probably melt the rest of the ice.

#22 alicetheauto

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 09:57 PM

As above, accidentally did it to one of mine years ago. I think it helped the heater matrix to pack in a number of months later but that's it. Warmed it up for a minute, left it for 10 to warm through. I dont think the block usually freezes totally, the water pump is exposed and alloy so freezes first.

#23 midridge2

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 10:05 PM

over the years i have done loads and loads of frozen engines and NEVER had one with any damage caused by freezing.
as been said before remove the fan belt and start the engine and let it run for 2-3 minutes and switch off and leave for 15 minutes and start again, let it run again for 2-3 minutes and switch off again, do this untill you can turn the water pump fan by hand, refit the belt and start it again this time for 10 minutes then switch off and allow to cool and add the anti freeze and check the core plugs.


#24 Jaydee88

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 07:19 PM

Brilliant thankyou for all your help!
I've just got the alternator and new fanbelt back on. without the fanbelt I could spin the fan... is that telling me it has all thawed out? I started it after jumping it from the in laws car and it ran fine. I turned it off and it started up again fine.
at first I smelt a bit of a burn but it went away after a few seconds.
i dont want to take it out if its not completely thawed so is it safe to drive now? it started fine and had no funny noises? can I drive it?
xoxoxox

#25 Alex_B

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 07:21 PM

The fact its started and also the fan can spin, shows that its thawed around the water pump and running it creates heat to will have probably melted now, I would drop the coolant and flush it through then replace with 50/50 water and glycol coolant and keep an eye out for leaks around the core plugs

#26 Jaydee88

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 07:50 PM

great thankyouuu :) I will never make that mistake again!!
where do I find the core plugs? sounds daft but I'm pretty thick!
xoxoxox

#27 lrostoke

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 08:15 PM

Posted Image

see the 3 silver discs front of engine level with the water pump...thats them..think also one on clutch side of block

#28 Dan

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 08:19 PM

The core plugs are the round plugs along the front and sides of the engine. If they look like they have moved at all in their bores then they should be replaced, pushing them back never really works. I personally have not known a frozen engine that didn't shift at least one, even if there was anti freeze and it simply got colder than anticipated. And I have lost core plugs on the motorway as a result which isn't fun. There are different types and the cup type plugs are far better than the dome type. Keep an eye on the heater for small leaks developing in the near future, the cores are not strong and if it fails badly you'll get a flood.

#29 MRA

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 09:53 PM

You are not thick just because you don't know something ! I would suggest that thick is the person who continually does the same thing time and time again after being told how not to do that same thing loads of times..

By the way your engine gets upto 1000 degrees in the cylinders, your water would boil off in a short time if you left the cap off for instance, it keeps cool by contunual circulation to the radiator and being a sealed system helps this.

Good luck

#30 mk=john

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 10:03 PM

Hi Jaydee
Sorry to hear of your troubles with the frozen engine. When you do plan to get the engine running, also watch out for any water in the front footwell of the car, in case the heater matrix, located under the dash area, has cracked due to the ice. I would recommend removing the front carpets as a precaution before you start up.
We all learn lessons in life, just follow the good advice many have given you and you will likely be fine.
Let us know how it goes, and good luck.




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