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Clutch Pedal Travel


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#1 Woreign

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 06:44 AM

I just started driving my Mini after a 5 month restoration. Everything is fine so far, except the clutch pedal travels all the way to the floor before disengaging the clutch. I've followed the Hanynes recommended adjustment procedures. The slave cylinder, clevis pins, clutch arm, throwout bearing are all new. The master cylinder has been rebuilt. And I have bled the hydraulics several times. I just can't seem to get the pedal to disengage any sooner. Any suggestions?

#2 Old Bob

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 09:06 AM

There are different lengths of push rod for the arm to solenoid. Could yours be too short?

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#3 Woreign

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 09:45 AM

I had thought so too, but Mini Spares only lists one push rod for both verto and non-verto clutches. There was no space inside the cylinder when I disconnected the push rod from the from the arm.

It's almost like the movement ratio at the pedal vs. cylinder is wrong. Could the master cylinder be the problem?



Update: I added a new master cylinder to my Mini Spares order for good measure...

Edited by Woreign, 07 March 2013 - 11:11 AM.


#4 BritishRacingGreen

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 01:15 PM

just tighten the return stop bolt a flat or two, mine was doing the exact same thing, you had to ram your foot into the footwell to be able to use the gears.

#5 Woreign

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 01:58 PM

Tighten, as increase the space between it and the clutch arm? Or the other way around?

#6 MRA

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 11:14 PM

Did you replace the clutchb plunger ? if it is worn it can lead to poor operation and often intermittent operation.

If you reduce the clearances of those specified you run the risk of damaging your engine or clutch.

2 lengths of push rod to cylinder (not solenoid, as solenoids are electric) the longer pushrod is for an earlier clutch, I very much doubt if you have one of these as they didn't work very well and where changed in the early 60's

#7 Woreign

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 09:18 AM

I fit a new clutch master cylinder and the problem is gone!

#8 Woreign

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 11:51 AM

I thought the problem was gone. The pedal still goes to the floor, almost. I little better than before.

I checked the plunger, and there is some play within the hole and the ball of the lever. Not a lot, but maybe too much? What is an acceptable amount?

The only problem is shifting into first when it will occasionally crunch. 2nd, 3rd, and 4th are fine.

Edited by Woreign, 19 March 2013 - 11:53 AM.


#9 KernowCooper

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 11:56 AM

Where does the pedal travel start to take up drive.

if its only a problem in 1st gear with a crunch are you sure its not the bulk ring worn on 1st gear

#10 Woreign

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 06:20 PM

I'm not familiar with the transmission or even what a bulk ring is. But if I'm careful to press the pedal all the way down to the floor, first does into gear easily.

When you let up on the clutch pedal, does the plunger within the slave cylinder retract away from the end of the clutch rod? I wonder if that's my problem?

#11 Woreign

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 09:06 AM

Another update: the instructions I had followed for adjusting the clutch were for the verto style, not the non-verto. So, after adjusting it correctly (pedal to the floor, adjust stop to the boss, release pedal and adjust stop one more flat) the pedal no longer goes all the way into the floor. However, shifting is still the same. 2, 3 & 4 are smooth, but some crunching in 1st. I did notice that when the engine is cold, there is no crunching, but once warmed up the crunching starts. Not everytime, but enough to warrant attention.




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