29 replies to this topic

[JoeBodge]

recently purchased 2X 12" disk setups off of minidaves - and i am going to convert them to 7.5" to run under 10" wheels.

Ive been trying to take them apart, so i can re-build them up.

I have taken off the callipers, removed the big nut from the middle of the drive flange, and removed the 4 retaining bolts. but the drive flange still wont move-

any ideas?

[minimadjonesy]

copper mallet??

[JoeBodge]

ive tryed using a rubber mallet to move it - but that isnt very effective - they have moved about 4 mm, then thats it - is there a cir-clip of anything like that , that needs removing?

[Jammy]

Can you drive a thin screwdriver between them? Or firstly use heat - blow torch, etc!

[Guess-Works.com]

Hold the disk is a vice, and then you can carefully drift them off from the inside ( make sure you are not damaging the flange ) and no circlip..

Also, how are you 'modifying' them to fit under 10's, if you are intending to use the existing mini disk drive flanges, then your choice is to get the disks machined down to 7.9 and then use alloy 4 pots.

Edited by GuessWorks, 07 April 2006 - 02:44 PM.

[GraemeC]

I read it as though he hasn't got the flange/disc assembly off the CV yet and the hubs aren't on a car.

If so then support the hub on wooden blocks high enough to keep clearance behind the CV and then tap that out by knocking on the threaded part with a soft faced hammer (loosely screw the slotted nut back on until its flush with the end of the thread too).

[JoeBodge]

i plan to change the drive flanges for the correct ones to fit under 10" wheels ( from minisport i think)
and to purchase a set of 4 pot alloy callipers and 7.5" disks also from minisport

[Guess-Works.com]

in which case there's no point separating the disk from the flange as both will not be used...

The 7.5" disks have a different ( cooper S ) drive flange..

as GraemeC has said. smack the end of the CV ( big threaded part ), if that's tight, it indicates that the CV and bearings have been heated due to lack of lubrication, and are probaby scrap anyway...

[JoeBodge]

rite - will have a go

[JoeBodge]

still having problems - so to clarify - hit the big threaded part like in the pic :

[attachment=14529:attachment]

should i screw back in the 4 retaining bolts - so the disk and flange both come off?

[Sprocket]

Have you tried a hub puller yet????

[pikey7]

DO NOT HIT THAT THREAD!

you'll just collapse the driveshaft where the split pin goes through and have to buy new CV joints. (Yes, I found out the hard way! Good job one of the CVs was knocking!)

Put the nut back on so that nut covers the split pin hole. Then get a thick (5mm ish) piece of steel that you can drill though and put on opposite wheel studs, ad over that top of the cv thread/big nut. then put the nuts on and give each one a turn at a time to make sure it pops out evenly. Alternatively, buy a hub puller!

[minipip]

joe if you can hold fire till next friday i will have a hub puler as i need to buy one for fitting ma alloys, unless you already have one that is!
if you have one could i borrow it lol

[miniboo]

you need to get the washer out of the centre before you can remove the disc and flange

rather than me trying to explain read the and look at the picturs in the FAQ section for changing brakes.

what i do is give the washer a whack with a blunt metal rod andf it tends to dislodge that way.

http://www.theminifo...?showtopic=9930

[JoeBodge]

thanks alot you've been a great help

one more thing - what size socket do you need for the castle nut on the hub?