my new engine wont start
#1
Posted 05 April 2006 - 02:42 PM
Kev,
#2
Posted 05 April 2006 - 02:45 PM
Will be interested to see what people say !
Jimmy
#3
Posted 05 April 2006 - 05:05 PM
try removing your dizzy cap !
take cyl no 1 s-plug out find tdc! with a long screwdriver take care not to score piston head !
rotate engine till piston is at top of travel (tdc)
then see if your rotor arm is hitting position one ! on dizzy ! usually about 2 oclock postion !
check firing order its 1-3-4-2 anticlockwise !
replace leads in this fasion no 1 cylender near radiator/waterpump replace s-plug and try to start!
then come back to us here on tmf lol
(also did u time you crank with the cam correctly by the marks on the gears! )just an extra thought !
#4
Posted 05 April 2006 - 05:53 PM
#5
Posted 05 April 2006 - 06:11 PM
We are having the same problem with an engine we have just put the head back onto, it will turn over but not start, its getting fuel as it goes BANG out of the lcb (with no exhaust attached) every now and then.
Mine did exactly the same thing and I found out it was because I had set the dissi up to be 180 out[attachment=14485:attachment]
As No 1 and 4 pistons are both at tdc at the same time but only one is on the power stroke,
Try stetting the crank to tdc with timing marks on pulley, taking out the dissi drive and turning the engine over by hand one revolution and reinstalling dissi.
#6
Posted 05 April 2006 - 06:12 PM
So you've got fuel, a spark, and its turning over but not as fast as it should
Being only in my second full year at college I dont know that much, but I would say because it's new it's 'teething' but thats only a guess.
Rich
#7
Posted 05 April 2006 - 06:25 PM
#8
Posted 05 April 2006 - 08:03 PM
Rich
#9
Posted 05 April 2006 - 08:07 PM
#10
Posted 05 April 2006 - 08:20 PM
well by teething u mean tight, then i have been told this and suggested to tow it round the block, so if it doesent start with a full bat then looks like im goin for a tow
Get a hair dryer on it and warm the head hahah!
umm.. if it were me I would say... you sure your HT leads are in the right order?? do you get huge backfires every so often?
youve got spark.. so u know thats right.. its not turning over fast... hmmm take the spark plugs out and try start the engine, see it is sounds any faster.... maybe it has ridiculous amount of compression and just wont start because of it, but that would have to be extreme and I dont even know if thats even possible.
youve got a full charged battery... has it got water if its not a sealed one? use a fluke.. check what you get.
I mean I to am doing my I.V.A lol so im no expert by any means, but its prob a very very simple solution.
#11
Posted 05 April 2006 - 09:08 PM
Clean the plugs, dry them off with a clean rag and ensure the following before trying to start it again
Make sure that the dizzy is timed right and ensure the plug leads on the cap are 1,3,4,2 anticlockwise with #1 cylinder at top dead center with both the exhaust and inlet valves shut again on #1 cylinder and the rotor arm pointing to #1 plug lead. If you are getting a spark at the plug and it still does not start then its a fueling issue.
If you are still having problems by the weekend, I may be able to pop over and have a look though Jackman is on his way round then to get his engine ready for machining.
#12
Posted 06 April 2006 - 04:35 PM
(very doutbful but poss)
Tarks.
#13
Posted 06 April 2006 - 04:51 PM
There are a couple of points to be watched during re-assembly relative to the dizzy and cam timing. You say the cam was timed right so I'm guessing you set it up with a degree wheel and are confident that all the drive gear is on correctly. The cam drives the dizzy drive gear which can easily be placed in the block in the wrong position, specifically 180 degrees out. Confirm the valve timing corresponds to what the dizzy is doing.
To do this, take off the dizzy cap and valve cover and pull the spark plugs. Turn the engine over by hand watching the timing marks, rotor in the dizzy, and the rockers. When you see your timing marks lining up for #1 piston at TDC, look at the dizzy and confirm that the rotor is pointing in the general vicinity of where the #1 spark plug wire should be. Look at the valves and look through the spark plug hole at the piston. #1 piston should be at the top when you're sitting on the TDC mark. Grab rocker arms for # 1 & 2 valves (the ones above #1 piston). Both rocker arms should be up and loose. If all these conditions aren't as I describe, you need to go back and change something. Specifically, with #1 piston at top, the TDC mark lined up, AND both 1 & 2 rocker arms loose, you'll need to reset your dizzy position so the rotor is pointing toward the #1 plug wire connection on the cap.
#14
Posted 07 April 2006 - 03:16 PM
#15
Posted 07 April 2006 - 09:00 PM
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