Hello looking for some advice.
I have recently had my mini van rebuilt / resprayed and is now currently having inner sills and drivers floor replaced.
What is the best thing for me to do now. I know I need to wax oil it but where? what do I use? how much do I need? where do I spray it?
With the floor being done I would like to stone chip the underside to give it the best protection again what do I use? What process do I need to do?
Is there any other things I need to do to protect from the dreaded rust.
I do kept him in a garage every night is there anything I need be carefull with as I've heard this isn't always te best thing as the car doesn't always dry inside
Looking forward to your replys and wisdom :)
What Do I Do Next?
Started by
adamjohnson1990
, Jan 04 2013 01:56 PM
2 replies to this topic
#2
tiger99
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Posted 05 January 2013 - 12:00 AM
I am rather puzzled as to why you are dpeningng inner sills and floors after the rebuild and paint. Normally, paint is last.
You are mostly asking about rust prevention, and basically it has to be considered all through the rebuild process, not just slapping some Waxoyl about when it is finished. Opinions differ, not so much based on what will and will not work, but on what can feasibly be done. I think that everyone here will know that their best efforts will be imperfect, so we do what we can. The usual approach is etch primer, with weld-through primer in seams and other weld areas, followed by a suitably tough primer, typically epoxy, followed in some places by stonechip, and finally top coats. Better, but less practicable, is to have everything grit blasted so the initial primer layer can be zinc, not etch, which is way better, but rarely done. Adhesion is very poor without the grit blasting. But some people spend lots of money and have the shell dipped and E coated like a modern car.
An important point is that the inside of all cavities (sills, crossmembers, top side of scuttle closures, etc) should all be painted to the same spec (but not necessarily colour, any left-over topcoat paint will do as no-one will see it) as the visible areas, as far as possible. There will only be weld-through primer in the seams, and where possible they should be sealed on both sides with seam sealer, after primer in my opinion, although some people seam seal under the primer. No-one will be able to tell you conclusively which is best, everyone knows what did and did not work for them.
Once all that is done, and the paint has fully hardened, it is time to inject Waxoyl into every cavity, and every seam which may not be totally sealed. Thin it well with white spirit, and for good measure stand the tin in a tub of almost boiling water, so it goes in really thin. Obvious areas are sills (at least a couple of pints each), bulkhead crossmember (spray through the openings for the pedals etc, mostly towards the outer ends), on top of the scuttle closers (access under rear inner edge of wing), seat crossmember (mostly towards the ends, through the vent holes), bottom of rear bins, at least half a pint each (excess will run down into the rear end of the sill, and you want LOTS there), and the front crossmember of the rear subframe. That is most of the enclosed areas, but it does no harm to spray it thickly under wheel arches, wings and valances etc, especially on the seams. Then put lots into the door pillars, e.g. through the check strap holes.
Oh, and dip all subframe fixing bolts in Waxoyl before fitting. They may then come out again next time you want the subframes off, without the usual drama.
Dont forget lots (maybe a pint again) in each door bottom, and front and rear edges, and a decent amount in the boot lid and the bonnet stiffners.
I would expect to use at least 5 litres of Wayoyl on a Mini, and it would do no harm to double that.
You are mostly asking about rust prevention, and basically it has to be considered all through the rebuild process, not just slapping some Waxoyl about when it is finished. Opinions differ, not so much based on what will and will not work, but on what can feasibly be done. I think that everyone here will know that their best efforts will be imperfect, so we do what we can. The usual approach is etch primer, with weld-through primer in seams and other weld areas, followed by a suitably tough primer, typically epoxy, followed in some places by stonechip, and finally top coats. Better, but less practicable, is to have everything grit blasted so the initial primer layer can be zinc, not etch, which is way better, but rarely done. Adhesion is very poor without the grit blasting. But some people spend lots of money and have the shell dipped and E coated like a modern car.
An important point is that the inside of all cavities (sills, crossmembers, top side of scuttle closures, etc) should all be painted to the same spec (but not necessarily colour, any left-over topcoat paint will do as no-one will see it) as the visible areas, as far as possible. There will only be weld-through primer in the seams, and where possible they should be sealed on both sides with seam sealer, after primer in my opinion, although some people seam seal under the primer. No-one will be able to tell you conclusively which is best, everyone knows what did and did not work for them.
Once all that is done, and the paint has fully hardened, it is time to inject Waxoyl into every cavity, and every seam which may not be totally sealed. Thin it well with white spirit, and for good measure stand the tin in a tub of almost boiling water, so it goes in really thin. Obvious areas are sills (at least a couple of pints each), bulkhead crossmember (spray through the openings for the pedals etc, mostly towards the outer ends), on top of the scuttle closers (access under rear inner edge of wing), seat crossmember (mostly towards the ends, through the vent holes), bottom of rear bins, at least half a pint each (excess will run down into the rear end of the sill, and you want LOTS there), and the front crossmember of the rear subframe. That is most of the enclosed areas, but it does no harm to spray it thickly under wheel arches, wings and valances etc, especially on the seams. Then put lots into the door pillars, e.g. through the check strap holes.
Oh, and dip all subframe fixing bolts in Waxoyl before fitting. They may then come out again next time you want the subframes off, without the usual drama.
Dont forget lots (maybe a pint again) in each door bottom, and front and rear edges, and a decent amount in the boot lid and the bonnet stiffners.
I would expect to use at least 5 litres of Wayoyl on a Mini, and it would do no harm to double that.
#3
adamjohnson1990
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Posted 05 January 2013 - 12:33 AM
Wow thanks for all your advice tiger99
Ye I understand the confusion it was a budget issue which backfired slightly I had all the exterior work done as the car was falling apart the floors and sills looked mostly solid so the plan was to get the main body done which included some new suspension rear subframe and bits and then in a couple of years when the paint needed a touch up from stone chips and the like to have the floor done. But after the body was all solid the floor gave way and large crack apeared on the outside so the floor has been bought forward.
I'm planning on feb half term (as I work in a school) to take it off the road and wax it all and stone chip the underside.
For the floor on the inside is the best plan to paint it as if I was painting any other metal part or is there anything I should put on to protect for wear and tare
Ye I understand the confusion it was a budget issue which backfired slightly I had all the exterior work done as the car was falling apart the floors and sills looked mostly solid so the plan was to get the main body done which included some new suspension rear subframe and bits and then in a couple of years when the paint needed a touch up from stone chips and the like to have the floor done. But after the body was all solid the floor gave way and large crack apeared on the outside so the floor has been bought forward.
I'm planning on feb half term (as I work in a school) to take it off the road and wax it all and stone chip the underside.
For the floor on the inside is the best plan to paint it as if I was painting any other metal part or is there anything I should put on to protect for wear and tare
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