14 replies to this topic

[mailman]

I have some play in my steering rack on the lefthand side. I have had a look under the boot and it looks like there is a means of turning it with some sort of C-Spanner, but I have had no luck tracking down the right sort of tool so far.

The question is, are they adjustable, and how does one go about taking the play out if they are?

I currently have the engine out so am tossing up whether or not to replace it, though my preference is to adjust due to the cost of a new rack, and the fact that most threads indicate it's a right pain of a job!

On a related note, what are the correct jacking points for the axle stands if i need to drop down the subframe?

[stonemonkey]

not sure about adjustment but when the mini rack that came with my kit car was grinding, i got a new one from plminis for £29 plus my rack. i think the major mini suppliers have simillar deals so its not as expensive as buying one out right if that helps.

[Spud_133]

No, a steering rack is not adjustable. The adjustment you can see is the adjustment on the track rod ends for the steering geomatory, ie, tracking. How sure the play is not on the tre, ie, the bit which is on the end attached the the steering arm on the hub? These are replaceable.

[Miniowner123]

best option is to replace if the engine is out, much easier job that way, as for axle stands i usually jack the car up and use 2 stands with a length of wood across them placed under the very front of the floor

[Wise Old Elf]

Mmm not sure I agree with the above.

You can and should adjust the amount the pinion meshes with the rack. I have removed shims to adjust this in the past and on page 255 of the workshop manual it describes how to do this.

I believe the part you are describing is the track-rod/ tie-rod. You are correct in saying there these screw onto the rack and if the play is only slight you may be able to nip up the ball housing (part 6) and take out the play. Alternatively the track rod / tie rod (part 7 on page 254) is replaceable check page 254 in the manual.

I have done both of the above on many different cars over the years. It depends on the price of a reconditioned rack: sometimes its cheaper to replace parts of the rack and other times its cheaper to replace the whole rack?

[mailman]

By workshop manual do you mean Haynes?

I may have to just bite the bullet and get a replacement rack. It seems like it shouldn't be so bad, but I know from reading here that it is not a simple task.

[Wise Old Elf]

By workshop manual do you mean Haynes?

I may have to just bite the bullet and get a replacement rack. It seems like it shouldn't be so bad, but I know from reading here that it is not a simple task.

Yes Haynes the light blue version.

You should ask what is a reconditioned rack? In most cases the old rack is cleaned, greased, adjusted, new gaitors, tie rods replaced with good used items and dashed over with some satin black paint.

[mailman]

I was going to go for a new item from Minispares as I don't really have the option of exchanging mine for a reconditioned unit.

[racingbob]

i replaced mine while engine was out
not worth messing around with

i remember was a bit of a pain think it was the u bolts
get someone give you a hand when doing it

[seancv1]

I didn't find it too hard ? Easier with two people though don't Bother with those crap plastic strips though just wrap your u bolts in electricians tape does the same job .

[SolarB]

I've always fitted the plastic strips, but does anyone know what function they actually perform?

[A-Cell]

Plastic strips are anti friction. They ensure the rack locates properly when the U-bolts are tightened, avoiding strain on the rack. Yes they are essential. If you use new U-bolts the job is easier. If refitting original ones check they easily fit in the holes before attempting to fit the rack. Old ones tend to spread apart and that's what makes them difficult to fit! If necessary squeeze the "legs" of the u bolt together ( in a vice) to get the dimension right. Remember to protect the threads, with some rag first.

[Guess-Works.com]

Yes you can recondition a steering rack, but honestly is it worth it....

You can recondition anything but it's a matter of having the time, tools and skills to perform the task.

[A-Cell]

Guessworks is right. The inner ball joint on the steering rack can be adjusted. But the reason for the play is most likely because it is worn. Would you adjust a hub BJ by removing shims to account for the wear or replace the BJ pin and cup? Well the inner ball joint on the rack is similar so unless you can get a new track rod and cup then all you would be able to do is 'tighten' it to remove the play.
Better to get a replacement rack from a reputable source (and safer).

[tiger99]

I think that most racks nowadays are non-adjustable, although if made to the original design there will be adjustment of the pinion meshing and the ball joints. However, beither of those adjustments are useful in correcting for wear,only for initially setting up correctly.

The rack wears around the central position, because obviously that is where it spends most of its time, going to the ends only during very low speed turns, so if you adjusted out play at the worn central position, it would be far too tight elsewhere. Many racks, not sure about the Mini, are delibarately machined a thou or so tighter at the middle to give them a longer life.

Adjusting worn ball joints is also rather useless, because they have to move freely, otherwise you will get a fatigue fracture of the track rod after a while. They start off as spherical, and wear into an oblate shape, which when adjusted will no longerf move freely except at the mid position.

As others are saying, I would always get an exchange rack from a reputable suppler. Far less trouble, and it will last well over 100k miles if not abused, so it is money well spent.

Fitting it is not too difficult, but as stated above you MUST fit the anti-friction strips. Electrical tape is not good enough and if the rack fails to align fully with the steering column you risk a sudden and complete steering failure some time later, when the column splines fail.

To remove or replace the rack (I have never needed a new one, but have had them out to top up the lubricant and for other reasons, and one did well over 160k miles), I get a piece of 4*2 timber and place it across the floor where it joins the toeboard. The exhaust has to be off to do that, as it comes below floor level. I then raise it slightly in the middle with a trolley jack, undo all subframe mounts etc, and jack it very slowly and carefully, watching all the engine connections and especially the brake line from master cylinder or PRV to subframe at the right hand side, which should ideally be replaced with a nice Goodridge flexible to make this job safer. Once it is high enough, i.e. the gap between subframe and shell is a few inches, you can put axle stands under the 4*2, just at the edges of the flat part of the floor, unbolt the rack and take it out. It goes back the same way, but check the brake pipe very carefully and retighten its unions, as flexing often makes then loose and they leak.

Once the rack is in, fit the U bolts, with the anti-friction strips, nip them up lightly to locate the rack properly, and then loosen 2 or 3 turms, connect the steering column (new pinch bolt and locknut very strongly recommended), tighten it, and only then do up the U bolts fully and evenly.