450 replies to this topic

[hoody99]

Any tips for fitting the skin peeps?

Edited by hoody99, 27 February 2013 - 09:06 PM.

[sonikk4]

Offer the door frame back into the car so that it sits well in the car. Then lay the skin over the frame to get an idea of how well it fits in the hole.

The skin comes with a hole to fit the door handle so see where that lays with the hole in the door frame. You can use this hole as a rough guide. If it all looks good take some measurements from the top of the window frame to the bottom of the skin.

Now take the door and skin out of the car and lay the skin back on the frame. Check your measurements again to make sure the skin sits well on the frame.
Now if its a pattern skin strip off the crappy coating inside the skin. Etch prime, prime and paint inside the skin.

Before you lay it back on the frame and clamp in place you need to drill two 5mm holes in the skin where it lays over the window frame at the top of the door skin.
Now lay your skin on top clamp in place and check your measurements. If you are happy now do a couple of tack welds on the upper edge of the skin front and back. make sure the skin is tight against the window frame at this point, if not pop the tacks off and re clamp. Before you go any further look along the length of the skin at the top to make sure its no bowed out. If it is pop the tacks again and then use either a mate of a clamp pull the skin in but DO NOT clamp too tight.

Now you can start to fold over the edges in a couple of places enough to hold the skin in place. You can now if you want at this stage offer it back up into the car to see how it fits. If its good remove the door and carry on folding over the skin and then weld up the edges and plug weld the the holes onto the window frame.

This sounds long winded but doing this gives you a chance to get the door to fit well.

I use a flat panel beating hammer and a good reaction block to fold over the flange. I did forget to mention there should be a couple of spot weld / plug welds in the bottom at both ends.

When its all folded over, welds cleaned up and everything looking good you can then carefully seam seal the edge of the folded sections.

Take your time with folded edges and make several passes to get a nice flat folded edge.

[SAL 821X]

There a big thread from i think it was sonikk about doing the skins.

I posted the link in my van thread for when i do mine.

On my phone at the mo so cant link it that easy.

Have a look in my thread its a couple of pages back.

[SAL 821X]

Hahaha spoke to soon.

[SAL 821X]

Thread i was thinking of was panelbeaterpetes actually which picture but the same as sonikks basically.

http://www.theminifo...showtopic=68079

[sonikk4]

Thread i was thinking of was panelbeaterpetes actually which picture but the same as sonikks basically.

http://www.theminifo...showtopic=68079

Clean forgot about Peters thread, good shout there Sal.

[hoody99]

Right think I get the thick of it but no panel beating tool here just good old hammers lol but I will be gentle and but something on the front of the skin so not to damage it he he am sure it will look good in the end just not looking foreword to it this and the heal board ends are my biggest worry lol

[sonikk4]

If you don't have a reaction block then you can use a piece of wood but it needs to be flat with no raised bits at all or you will mark the skin. A flat panel beating hammer will give you a much better finish. I did buy the proper tool to fold the edge round but i found it marked the folded edge so hence why i use a block and panel beating hammer.

[sonikk4]

For the heelboard ends i would suggest you do one side at a time. Use the subframe stripped of the radius arms and use this to align each repair end. So refit the subbie but obviously not in the heel board end you are going to fit. When you are happy its in the right place tack weld it in place then remove the subbie. Weld the repair in place then do the same for the other side.

This is exactly what i did for the "Red One " at the bottom under Project Erm and Project Paddy.

[hoody99]

Was planning no using the subby but attaching the repair panels to the subby to get them in the right position for tacking

[sonikk4]

Was planning no using the subby but attaching the repair panels to the subby to get them in the right position for tacking

Just be careful the subbie is supported well to maintain the right height in the corner you are welding.

[hoody99]

Will be doing it upside down while on the spit lol easier I think

[sonikk4]

Will be doing it upside down while on the spit lol easier I think

It will be easier but its possible it may sag down so do measure it against the other side.

[hoody99]

That's the problem bud none of the heel board mounts exit at present lol

[sonikk4]

Ahh i see your problem now. Are the rear mounts in the boot floor tidy?? If they are then at least you have got a fwd and aft position as a guide.

What repair sections are you going to use, Heritage or after market?? Some of the pattern ones are not particularly good. I got bitten with some very rubbish ones we bought off SC Parts for Project Erm and then we bought a complete Heritage heelboard. Not their own make to be sure so be careful what you get.