
15 - 40 Oil For Winter
#16
Posted 02 December 2012 - 05:41 AM
Well I see you live in Hampshire, I know the county quite well. I now live in the NW of British Columbia Canada. (google Kitimat BC then you will see just where).
I have a 73 mini 1000, and run Castrol 20/50 all year, yep thats right all year. The mini is our 12 month car and it does get to negative 30c here..The mgb our 5 month other car also runs Castrol 20/50. I do use zppt in both engines. Guess I an recomennding Castrol 20/50 with zppd.
Cheers Ric
#17
Posted 02 December 2012 - 05:44 PM
Hi Bob,
Well I see you live in Hampshire, I know the county quite well. I now live in the NW of British Columbia Canada. (google Kitimat BC then you will see just where).
I have a 73 mini 1000, and run Castrol 20/50 all year, yep thats right all year. The mini is our 12 month car and it does get to negative 30c here..The mgb our 5 month other car also runs Castrol 20/50. I do use zppt in both engines. Guess I an recomennding Castrol 20/50 with zppd.
Cheers Ric
hi Ric yes see where you are i lived in canada as a kid toronto
so you use castrol 20 50 like me but you still ad zppd
castrol told me theres enough in the 20 50
bob
#18
Posted 02 December 2012 - 07:44 PM
www.millersoils.co.uk/pdf/automotive/oils_mini_motorcycle.pdf
http://www.opieoils....i-Oil-20w50.pdf
http://www.opieoils....s/CTV-20w50.pdf
One is mineral and the other is semi synthetic both 20W 50 with shear stable viscosity improvers and EP gearbox protection additive.
People who say you cannot use a semi synthetic oil in a mini are not correct!
I use the CTV 20W50 in my 7 port with it's Jack Knight 6 speed dog box and can highly recommend it.
Oh and the CTV semi synthetic oil is what several top engine tuners recommend e.g. Swiftune (although you can get it a-lot cheaper from Demon Tweaks for example).
http://www.swiftune....racing-oil.aspx
#19
Posted 02 December 2012 - 07:54 PM
One important thing when starting a Mini, or any older engine with thicker multigrade mineral oils is to never start the engine with the clutch pushed down to avoid not loading up the crankshaft thrust bearings until the oil is flowing.
With the Mini the gearbox is the big issus, as 'Tiger' so rightly says, and a thinner or synthetic oil is really not suitable.
#20
Posted 02 December 2012 - 08:30 PM
Only 800ppm zinc and shear down like water when abused. Poor like any other SE spec oil. Wouldnt use it on a modified engine.
I had an hearthache when oil pressure went down to 55 psi at above 4k rpm on a mountain stage, i was using Castrol XL fresh oil, and suspected oil pump/bearings failure..Low pressure all the time even travelling back home. Flushed out it was thin like a 30 weight oil. Ffilled up with Millers and had oil pressure went back to the usual readings.
Castrol offers better 20w50 oils...
Millers CVT and Valvoline vr1 are excellent oils.
20w50 visosity oils have an average pour point at about -27° so in cold climate is fine only if the car is well garaged and used regularly.
Once it reach just 5° it becomes hard to pump on a cold start as grease.
#21
Posted 02 December 2012 - 08:35 PM
Cstrol classic XL is good only if yours a standard car doing a daily route home-work-tesco-home.
Only 800ppm zinc and shear down like water when abused. Poor like any other SE spec oil. Wouldnt use it on a modified engine.
I had an hearthache when oil pressure went down to 55 psi at above 4k rpm on a mountain stage, i was using Castrol XL fresh oil, and suspected oil pump/bearings failure..Low pressure all the time even travelling back home. Flushed out it was thin like a 30 weight oil. Ffilled up with Millers and had oil pressure went back to the usual readings.
Castrol offers better 20w50 oils...
Millers CVT and Valvoline vr1 are excellent oils.
20w50 visosity oils have an average pour point at about -27° so in cold climate is fine only if the car is well garaged and used regularly.
Once it reach just 5° it becomes hard to pump on a cold start as grease.
Yes, always use Valvoline Racing 20w50 in the rally cars and Castrol Classic in the road engines.
#22
Posted 02 December 2012 - 08:38 PM
#23
Posted 02 December 2012 - 08:43 PM
I believe Penrite is also very good.
#24
Posted 02 December 2012 - 08:55 PM
Let me have a search, come across to this on ebay and price wasnt too bad.
#25
Posted 02 December 2012 - 09:04 PM
#26
Posted 02 December 2012 - 09:04 PM
#27
Posted 03 December 2012 - 12:12 AM
Penrite oils are supposed to be great but I don't quite get how a 20/60 replaces a 20/50.
Also, any opinions on the Morris golden film 20/50? Minimine push it so it shouldn't be rubbish - I hope!
#28
Posted 03 December 2012 - 10:07 AM
Has anyone tried the penrite 20/60 oil? They advertise it as a 20/50 replacement for classics.
Penrite oils are supposed to be great but I don't quite get how a 20/60 replaces a 20/50.
Also, any opinions on the Morris golden film 20/50? Minimine push it so it shouldn't be rubbish - I hope!
Why not use the CORRECT viscosity grade, which also is availabe from penrite.
Penrite sounds like Marmite...
Too high viscosity index imho, and such a thick oil will cost you performance loss and return a poor mpg.
Anyway:
the PDS for the HRP30 mineral 20w60 clearly states "Not recommended for four stroke motorcycles with wet clutches."
For the Diesel 20w60 says its ok.
Their PDS for bike oil show no friction modifiers and good zinc content, so its suitable for the gearbox, its a synth anyway(for what they said above....)
Morris golden film has a good reputation, never been looking at it personally, but lots of MG owners talk about this classic oil.
#29
Posted 03 December 2012 - 12:49 PM
#30
Posted 03 December 2012 - 12:52 PM
Having worked in the additive industry as a formulator for around 8 years, I can see there is a lot of nonsense being talked here!!
Then it be a good idea for you impart some wisdom...

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