1843 replies to this topic

[Steve220]

Even i'm excited for you! Amazing work!

[Richie83]

Getting there Pete. Nice work as usual.

[Petrol]

Thanks guys, I'm getting there. Now the rolling shell is almost finished I will be making a start on the engine soon but have a few questions about the wheels....

 

I want to fit 5 X 10" rims with 165 / 70 Yoko A032 tyres. From what I remember 6 X 10's can tramline a bit.
I want Minilite style rims but they have to fit over the 7 1/2" disks and 4 pot calipers I have. I also want them to fill the Mini Special arches.... More than fill them for that ever so slightly cheeky look.
I have been told that Minator rims are very light which will keep the UN-sprung weight down but will the ET of these fill the arches?

Copy and paste...

Here we have a set of 4 genuine Minator silver alloy wheels, suitable for Classic Mini

Size 5 x 10

ET 19

PCD 101.6

Thanks

Pete
 

 

 

 

 

 

[superzorg1000]

Hi Pete, not sure of it will, but this website might come of some use. If you have the measurements of your current wheels (poke/ET, etc.) it's a useful comparison tool. Hope this helps in some way. 

 

https://www.willtheyfit.com/

[timmy850]

The Mini 1100 Special wheels are listed here as being 10x5 with an offset of 15.5 (and of course use the same Mini Special wheel arches as you)

http://www.wheeldictionary.net

 

The ones you've listed are offset 19, which will be 3.5mm further set in under the arches. 

 29911867403_2256a17996_b.jpg   71.21K   3 downloads

 

If you space out the 5x10 wheels to be as wide as 6x10 wheels you'll probably have the same amount of tram-lining anyway?

Edited by timmy850, 08 April 2018 - 05:36 AM.

[Petrol]

Hi Pete, not sure of it will, but this website might come of some use. If you have the measurements of your current wheels (poke/ET, etc.) it's a useful comparison tool. Hope this helps in some way. 

 

https://www.willtheyfit.com/

Thanks, that helped a lot.

 

 

The Mini 1100 Special wheels are listed here as being 10x5 with an offset of 15.5 (and of course use the same Mini Special wheel arches as you)

http://www.wheeldictionary.net

 

The ones you've listed are offset 19, which will be 3.5mm further set in under the arches. 

29911867403_2256a17996_b.jpg

 

If you space out the 5x10 wheels to be as wide as 6x10 wheels you'll probably have the same amount of tram-lining anyway?

 

Brilliant thanks very much, just what I needed. I remember driving my old Mini with 6X10 wheels and felt it tramline a bit so your probably right. The offset on the 5X10's is about as far as I want to go for a road car. I'll get a set of the Minators and see how it goes.I might put some small spacers on and take it from there. Again thanks

With the rolling shell sorted, it's time to start on the engine.

 

I swapped the pistons / rods around to get the best deck height. They are within 2 thou and the highest piston is flush with the top of the block

 

 

I measured the volume above the piston and its about 1cc. Remember there is a void between the piston and the top ring. I will use this to calculate the head chamber volume for the CR.

Some of  the oil feed holes in the block don't line up with the holes in the shells. A restriction like this will reduce the flow of oil to the shell and make the pump work harder. A friend of mine told me what you're trying to do is turn the wheels not make heat. Reducing any losses like this are worth having.

 

 

I used a burr in a dremel to elongate the hole in the block to match the shell

 

 

 

I had to drill and tap the block to take the new oil pump

 

 

 

Then removed the core plugs to clean the galleries out.

Drilled first to weaken them

 

 

Then pulled them out

 

 

 

There are 2 on 998's and 4 on 1275's.
 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Petrol]

To remove boring / honing cutting fluid, it's best to use paraffin or detergent. WD40 won't shift it.

Block sprayed with engine degreaser. I poured it into all the oil galleries too.

 

 

Shower head removed and mat in bath

 

 

Hot water pumped through galleries

 

 

I got the whole block hot then dried it off with an airline. As soon as it was dry I sprayed WD 40 everywhere including down all the oil galleries

 

 

 

The cam I'm using was designed by David Vizard. In order to get the best out of it I'm using pressed steel rockers since these have the correct lift ratio for the cam. Different types of rockers have slightly different lifts. Even the forged S rockers are different from the sintered and pressed steel ones. 1.3 or even worse, 1.5 roller rockers would also ruin the profile of the cam. 

 

Pressed steel rockers are pretty bullet proof especially if you beef em up a bit. Tig welding across the top

 

 

And a couple of blobs on the bottom

 

 

Makes them as strong as anything.

 

I have cleaned the pads up with 1500 wet and dry to remove any indentations. The high lift cam will use more of the pad than a stock setup

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TobyM2018]

Nice Pete. Great detail as Always!

I'm taking notes... curious to hear more about the cam

Edited by TobyM2018, 12 April 2018 - 08:17 PM.

[Petrol]

I'll post the spec of everything when I build the engine. I'm waiting for a few parts so in the meantime.....

I bought this Mk3 distributor splash guard but it doesn't fit because I have a later front panel.

 

They certainly do the job and I'm not keen on those that go over the front of the engine so I decided to make my own.

 

Cardboard template

 

 

 

Two sheets of 1mm steel, waxed with mold release agent

 

 

This is prepreg carbon. The resin is infused in the carbon

 

 

Cut to shape and 5 layers on a sheet of steel. I rolled the carbon to ensure there was no air trapped between the layers

 

 

Next sheet of steel placed on top

 

 

The right way to do this is to bag and vacuum the part during the heating process which cures the resin. I don't have any of that so I puts some weight (sockets) in a flat bottomed Pyrex dish. This will put a bit of pressure on the layered up prepreg

 

 

Put it on top and baked it for 4 hours at 130C

 

 

Prepreg is much easier to work with than sheets of carbon fabric. There's no mixing of resins and it's much easier to handle.

 

 

 

 

[Richie83]

I'll post the spec of everything when I build the engine. I'm waiting for a few parts so in the meantime.....

I bought this Mk3 distributor splash guard but it doesn't fit because I have a later front panel.


 
They certainly do the job and I'm not keen on those that go over the front of the engine so I decided to make my own.
 
Cardboard template
 

 
 
Two sheets of 1mm steel, waxed with mold release agent
 

 
This is prepreg carbon. The resin is infused in the carbon
 

 
Cut to shape and 5 layers on a sheet of steel. I rolled the carbon to ensure there was no air trapped between the layers
 

 
Next sheet of steel placed on top
 

 
The right way to do this is to bag and vacuum the part during the heating process which cures the resin. I don't have any of that so I puts some weight (sockets) in a flat bottomed Pyrex dish. This will put a bit of pressure on the layered up prepreg
 

 
Put it on top and baked it for 4 hours at 130C
 

 
Prepreg is much easier to work with than sheets of carbon fabric. There's no mixing of resins and it's much easier to handle.
 

 
 
 

did it smell in the oven?

[guywilko]

Car looks great!!

 

Which sub is that plse?

[Petrol]

There was no smell from curing the carbon.

The Sub is an Alpine SWE-122 8". The best thing about it is it's light and doesn't take up much space.

 

 

I bought 5 rims. I'm not fitting a carpet in the boot so it will be nice to see a proper spare

 

 

These look just about right

 

 

They also clear the 4 pot calipers..... Just!

 

 

 

 

 

[1330RG]

Stunning quality work as always!

[Petrol]

Thanks but I chipped a piston ring Had to buy a new set so now I can start building the engine.

 

It's best to fit sealant to gaskets and core plugs, particularly the oil plugs.

 

 

Best not to get sealer inside the gallery so put the plug in first followed by a bead around it

 

 

Knocked in

 

 

 

Engine oil on the pistons and rings.

 

Graphogen on the crankshaft journals

 

 

Also on the shells

 

 

The tab washers on the big ends are very soft. This can lead to the bolt working loose so I ditched them and used lock and seal.

 

 

All torqued up.
End float on crank is 2 1/2 thou

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Marco1972]

Hi Pete

Not sure if your still using Photobucket but all I can see is the image code
I’m having the same problem myself when I post

Mark