Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild
#1216
Posted 09 September 2016 - 08:53 PM
Also the gear lever almost touches the seats in 2,4th and reverse,but its safe to drive.
Great build,and never done bodywork is impressive.
When you come to painting,say an old panel that has paint already on it,do you just use 600 grit and lay the basecoat without primer.
I understand on bare metal primer etc.
#1218
Posted 10 September 2016 - 09:21 PM
Just offering my advice, as an aircraft engineer we wouldn't solder the joint prior to crimping. Especially with finer stranded cables.
During use, we have found that were the tinning has stopped wetting the cable this causes a solid edge but with the finer cables having more flexibility the soft cables will eventually start to tear and then causing a break. The heatshrink is a great idea to stop moisture ingress into the joint but you may have introduced a weak point into your power cable.
Sorry, please don't think I'm picking holes, it's just what I know and I can see you want to do everything from a informed position.
Keep up the great work. It's gonna be brilliant 👍🏻
Edited by Junior Mini, 11 September 2016 - 07:31 AM.
#1219
Posted 11 September 2016 - 07:04 PM
Thanks for the heads up and absolutely no offense taken. I might have enough length on the cables to re make the ends off
#1221
Posted 16 September 2016 - 09:40 PM
#1223
Posted 05 December 2016 - 04:35 PM
#1225
Posted 11 January 2017 - 12:15 AM
#1226
Posted 12 January 2017 - 11:59 AM
Genuinely upset that I've finished this thread.
We're currently restoring a 1997 MPI which was in worst state than this when we bought it (Northern Irish coastal car, they love road salt up there too...). I've spent over £700 on panels alone, new front and rear subby and it's been at the welders for the last year (Another £1500!).
This thread has made me realise that once we get the car back from the welders, the job has realistically only just started! I wish I had read this thread before hand and I would have done a lot of things differently.
Fantastic work and thank you for sharing it with us in so much detail. It will be invaluable once I come to putting my car back together.
#1227
Posted 13 January 2017 - 11:02 PM
Phew, started reading this thread three days ago and I'm only halfway through. I love how the build has changed from straight-up Sportspack resto to something utterly different. I want to look back a few pages and see how it's getting on but those 3 most recent pics with the Hoosiers made me hesitate, I don't want to ruin the story!
Pete, I wont even bother to compliment you on the outstanding work so far (I'm up to the first full coat of gloss blue on the bare shell), but hats off to you for your excellent write-up and photos. I think I've learned more reading this than several years of half a dozen well known magazines. And full respect for always being happy to answer peoples questions and repeat yourself umpteen times (how does zinc primer work again? :) ). Almost every post brings a new question to my mind, often answered later on by you or someone else. I've often wondered what the best plan is to prevent rust coming back once you've bothered to get rid of it all, and now I know.
#1228
Posted 15 January 2017 - 10:06 PM
Hi Pete, great build, love the detail, Im building a 998 using a 12g295 as well, Did you do the calculations for the CR yet, not sure if I'm doing it right and wondered what values you were using? Regards Bradley
I haven't worked out how much needs to come off the head yet but it's quite a bit. I'm not going to go mad with the CR either as you run the risk of going through to the oil way in the head.
Genuinely upset that I've finished this thread.
We're currently restoring a 1997 MPI which was in worst state than this when we bought it (Northern Irish coastal car, they love road salt up there too...). I've spent over £700 on panels alone, new front and rear subby and it's been at the welders for the last year (Another £1500!).
This thread has made me realise that once we get the car back from the welders, the job has realistically only just started! I wish I had read this thread before hand and I would have done a lot of things differently.
Fantastic work and thank you for sharing it with us in so much detail. It will be invaluable once I come to putting my car back together.
Only too happy to post up what I know. The main problem with shell restoration is welding, as soon as you weld you have rust. With the mini having so many seams, it’s a right PITA
Phew, started reading this thread three days ago and I'm only halfway through. I love how the build has changed from straight-up Sportspack resto to something utterly different. I want to look back a few pages and see how it's getting on but those 3 most recent pics with the Hoosiers made me hesitate, I don't want to ruin the story!
Pete, I wont even bother to compliment you on the outstanding work so far (I'm up to the first full coat of gloss blue on the bare shell), but hats off to you for your excellent write-up and photos. I think I've learned more reading this than several years of half a dozen well known magazines. And full respect for always being happy to answer peoples questions and repeat yourself umpteen times (how does zinc primer work again? :) ). Almost every post brings a new question to my mind, often answered later on by you or someone else. I've often wondered what the best plan is to prevent rust coming back once you've bothered to get rid of it all, and now I know.
The car is being built for road use. I’m not fitting a roll cage to keep the weight down and I want it to look like a Mini with a few bolt on bits.
Underneath though it will be a bit of a do-er and I will probably thrash it up a hill or two
Thanks for the kind words everyone.
#1230
Posted 02 March 2017 - 11:20 AM
Any updates?
Cheers,
Mark.
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