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Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild


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#1141 cp2708

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Posted 04 December 2015 - 12:28 PM

I had a Honda S2000 about 9 years ago. Great car, well made and an epic engine. It's still on the road so it must not have been written off!

 

Attached File  S2000.JPG   69.01K   10 downloads

 

Great work on the Mini, been following it!

 

Chris.

 

 

 



#1142 Petrol

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Posted 04 December 2015 - 09:47 PM

Pete has the block not come back yet ?

give me a call when you want the tools 

 

No but I'm in no rush. I just want it right.  Will give you a call when it's arrived :thumbsup:

 

I had a Honda S2000 about 9 years ago. Great car, well made and an epic engine. It's still on the road so it must not have been written off!

 

attachicon.gifS2000.JPG

 

Great work on the Mini, been following it!

 

Chris.

 

 

 

 

Nice colour Chris. Lol at the written off - there were unjustified claims that the diff lock was a bit savage but I have driven both the AP1 and AP2 and didn't have any probs.

 

 

I'm having real problems fitting a new tint top screen. Iv'e fitted a new rubber to the aperture but can't even get the screen started inside of the seal. Iv'e tried soapy water and even WD 40 but can't seem to even get it started. Any advice would be welcome.

 

Thanks

Pete 
 



#1143 Badboytunes

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Posted 07 December 2015 - 11:28 PM

My Mrs won the one from 5th gear, i think they are great cars

#1144 Petrol

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Posted 08 December 2015 - 10:51 PM

Wow, what a prize!

 

Things are now going wrong with this build - 'Ive cracked a brand new laminated tint top screen :ohno:

 

1551_zpsbutdavem.jpg

 

 

It was too tight, it can only be one of three things-

 

The aperture is wrong because my bulkhead top / scuttle repair wasn't accurate

The rubber seal is too big

The screen is the wrong size

 

I could do with a genuine screen to see if this aftermarket one has the right curvature and dimensions.

 

Oh joy

 

Pete



#1145 pmplovesminis2006

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Posted 09 December 2015 - 06:16 AM

pete i have 2 x screens you can have a look at 

if you measure the hole ,we can see if its the same as my clubby estate ?



#1146 Petrol

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 10:40 PM

pete i have 2 x screens you can have a look at 

if you measure the hole ,we can see if its the same as my clubby estate ?

 

Thanks for your help today :thumbsup:

 

The outcome is this -

The windsceen aperture on my shell is within 1mm of a factory original shell ;D

The laminated windscreen was placed on top of an OEM screen. The laminated screen is too big and the curvacture along the bottom edge is wrong so it was mission impossible to get it to fit.

 

I have a few other problems with new parts not working / fitting properly but am hoping to get things back on track next week. I guess it's a case of watch this space!

 

 

Pete



#1147 slidehammer

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Posted 13 December 2015 - 07:45 AM

Shame about the screen, but unfortunately you always come up against issues like like this in a build. At least it was nothing you have done wrong with the body work. Pattern parts are getting worse as there is less demand for them now.

#1148 alchall

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Posted 13 December 2015 - 10:13 AM

Must be a relief that your aperture is not at fault, I've been thinking about getting a new screen and test fitting before going for paint on mine, maybe OTT and I just need to double check the measurements.

 

Where did the screen that was never going to fit come from?



#1149 ratty

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Posted 13 December 2015 - 10:29 AM

I've had all sort of issues with reproduction parts during my builds, takes the fun out of it at times

#1150 mini_surfari

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Posted 13 December 2015 - 06:55 PM

I echo the above, the standard of aftermarket and reproduction items is absolutely appalling, especially with the cost considered...

Stick with it though!

#1151 cp2708

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Posted 13 December 2015 - 08:13 PM

My top tint was a bugger to get in, required 2 people where the original I managed to fit easily on my own.

#1152 Petrol

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Posted 17 December 2015 - 11:42 PM

Things are moving again.

 

The screen has gone back to the manufacturers. I was told that if it wasn't broken, they could have ground it down. They should have thought about that before shipping it in the first place!

 

Replacement short block has arrived. No strap on the center cap but at least it won't spin the thrust washer

 

1552_zpsebzqyxa6.jpg

 

Oil feed to main bearing can be out of alignment

 

1554_zpsofkzrwwr.jpg

 

Sorted with a Dremmel

 

1555_zpscbldkmi8.jpg

 

Main bearing clearances checked, no taper on the journals this time

 

1553_zpsuu9mlfue.jpg

 

Piston to bore clearance is a bit bigger than I would have liked at 0.0019" but for a screamer, it will be OK. Ring gap is 15 thou

 

1556_zpshkxpbsr5.jpg

 

Block in primer

 

1557_zpsz6zbynru.jpg

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



#1153 Gr4h4m

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Posted 18 December 2015 - 12:36 PM

Interesting Pete, I Dremmel'd the block when I did my mains. I think they are all out to some extent.

Looking good

#1154 Gr4h4m

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Posted 18 December 2015 - 12:41 PM

Also I found wedging and balancing the crank made a big difference to how quick and smooth the engine spun up. Over the standard crank and a super light flywheel. I'm only saying as the title of your thread says screamer...

#1155 Petrol

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Posted 18 December 2015 - 10:02 PM

The block was chemically cleaned so I didn't want to introduce swarf into the gallerys. That's why I dremmeled the shell. The crank is balanced but not wedged, I know what you mean but you have to draw the line somewhere. I would have loved a forged crank / rod set but that's massive wonga.

 

Painted the block

 

1558_zpsa8azykij.jpg

 






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