1844 replies to this topic

[Petrol]

great stuff pete the right ones   ,did you give them a good telling off !!!

 

I was very diplomatic and explained that everyone mistakes I also offered a little advice about customer service. A measure of a good organisation is how they respond when there's a problem. After all, it's easy when you sell something and there's no problems.

 

Thanks for your help mate

[Petrol]

Thought I would check the accuracy of the crank grind before assembly. The rule of thumb is to have 0.001'' clearance per inch of journal. To do this I used this plastigauge kit

 

 

 

Fitted the main bearing shells to the block

 

 

I will open this oil way up in the shell with a dremel before final assembly

 

 

Oiled the shells in the block

 

 

Removed the protective oil from the shells that fit into the bearing cap, then pushed them into place

 

 

 

Applied a "rod" of plastigauge to the main journals

 

 

 

Then fitted the caps. It's important not to oil the shell or journal at this point as it will give a false reading. Also don't turn the crank!

 

 

 

To measure the bearing crush or clearance, it's just a matter of taking a reading with the chart

 

 

 

The clearance is 2 1/2 thou which is within spec

 

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

[RossKnight]

Art!

[Petrol]

Art!

 

Not quite I'm afraid, ran into a few probs with the crank journals and this

 

 

 

It's not easy to see on the pic but the centre bearing cap has been milled to take the strap. In doing so, the slot for the thrust washer tang has been cut off. Thrust washers can easily spin if not located properly and the uprated clutch / high revs will only increase the load on the washers. The bottom line is I'm not happy with it so it's another block without the poor design centre strap along with a replacement crank ground to -10.

[GraemeC]

It's a small bore - they're all like that.
You need a special strap with the retainer cut into it, or drill and pin/screw the thrusts in place.

This will tell you all and give you the possible fixes:
http://www.turbomini...p=vt&tid=581809

Edited by GraemeC, 12 November 2015 - 08:54 AM.

[Petrol]

Thanks for the linky. The strap was sold small bore specific. It should have been narrower or wasted to accommodate the slot in the bearing cap. I don't want to compromise on build quality at this stage of the game so it's a replacement short engine. Drilling the thrust washers to pin / bolt could weaken them and it's not a risk I'm prepared to take. The crank was also not good.

 

Things are still progressing well, done a bit of work on the electrics / interior trim. Fitted the ICE and it sounds awesome thanks to Ruckus

 

 

Pete

 

[GraemeC]

It looks like the one they sell for the 1275 according to the pictures on their website. The pictures of the '998' one show a strap so thin it's not worth having.
Speak to Carl at Force Racing and get him to supply a cap - it would be much better. Swapping to a new block will only leave you in the same boat (unless your not going to strap the main on the new one?)

[Petrol]

No, I'm not going to strap the main cap on the new engine. Problem resolved

[Deathrow]

Just wanted to pop and say that I absolutely love this build thread, the attention to detail is what keeps me coming back.

 

Like Graeme says though; it seems a little extreme to get a replacement block when you could get a better designed strap and have the best of both worlds?

 

Whatever you decide, I'm looking forward to the next update .

[gadget555]

As above, but you have come up with some methodical and  ingenuous ways of doing things and I can see your theory in wanting to get a different block but the one you have is perfectly fine it just needs the centre strap machining differently.

[Petrol]

The center cap is deemed part of the block as it's line bored to suit. Like I said, I paid to for the parts and machining so should end up with a solution. The supplier has contacted me and said they are going to sort it. Whilst a center strap is not essential on a 998, any improvement in rigidity will help reduce crankshaft oscillation. All I can do at the moment, is wait to see what they come back with and there is talk of a strap being fitted with proper locating slots for the thrust washers

[Petrol]

I'm still waiting for the block and crank but in the meantime, I have sorted a few bits out - one of which is the rear parcel shelf.  I'm not having speakers in there so covered it in carpet

 

 

 

I have also been busy with this Honda S2000 I bought. It took me 12 months to find a good low mileage example

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's having a quick fettle up which Mika is helping with

 

 

With induction and exhaust mods it will sound like this

 

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube....bed/_QtPOHp2atg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

 

Hmmm, can't get the vid to embed ^^^^

 

Goal for next year is to get everything on the road!

 

Pete

Edited by Petrol, 03 December 2015 - 09:48 PM.

[RossKnight]

Link just needs to be posted, forum embeds it :)

 

 

 

 

Pete, how many projects are on the go now?! Also, that sounds nice!

Edited by RossKnight, 03 December 2015 - 10:27 PM.

[Petrol]

I tried to embed it but it didn't work Not to worry, it's only a click away.

 

Projects on the go are -

 

Honda S2000 - it's just a quick fettle up and will be on the road about March. There is nothing wrong with it but am taking the opportunity to stop it detiorating. S2000's are appreciating in value

 

Nissan 200SX S13, Needs lots of work. Mechanically it's 100% but this car is my biggest problem at the mo

 

Mini - I just want an engine, the rest of it is easy as everything is sorted. Let's just say I feel let down with people who claim to know what they are doing, but in reality know very little..............

[pmplovesminis2006]

Pete has the block not come back yet ?

give me a call when you want the tools