1843 replies to this topic

[Petrol]

 A good 998 is very nice, but a 4.33 diff in a road car?  I currently run a 3.9 in a 997 and also in a 1275.  I did think about using a 4.1 in the 997, I'm glad I didn't now. 

 

The 1275 is heavily modified and is used as a hillclimber that can also be used occasionally on the road.  The 997 is an old rally car that I have just completed 1800 miles around Ireland in and it went well.  A 4.33 would be an absolute pain to drive on the road.  Indeed a friend of mine used one for a brief period and promptly took it out. 

 

Your build looks very good otherwise, I like the forethought put into different things.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Me bad, it was a typo, the diff I'm intending using is a 3.44 - the same as fitted to a Mk3 1000. I assume this will be OK?

 

Masked the block up

 

 

 

 

 

Primed with Pro XL etch primer

 

 

 

Then a few coats of 2K red

 

 

 

 

 

Pete

[minimissions]

Nice work that has come out great :)

[RossKnight]

I bet you can get it smoother

[Petrol]

I bet you can get it smoother

 

I have read that slapping loads of paint on a block insulates it and reduces heat loss. As far as this build goes, I don't think it's a problem

 

Pete

[ace01]

 

 A good 998 is very nice, but a 4.33 diff in a road car?  I currently run a 3.9 in a 997 and also in a 1275.  I did think about using a 4.1 in the 997, I'm glad I didn't now. 

 

The 1275 is heavily modified and is used as a hillclimber that can also be used occasionally on the road.  The 997 is an old rally car that I have just completed 1800 miles around Ireland in and it went well.  A 4.33 would be an absolute pain to drive on the road.  Indeed a friend of mine used one for a brief period and promptly took it out. 

 

Your build looks very good otherwise, I like the forethought put into different things.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Me bad, it was a typo, the diff I'm intending using is a 3.44 - the same as fitted to a Mk3 1000. I assume this will be OK?

 

 

 

A 3.44 will be ok.  A 3.76 might give you a bit more off the line, but uses a few more revs on the motorway.

 

Loving the finish on the block.

[MrBounce]

Fantastic work as always Pete - looking very good

[Petrol]

 

 

 

 

A 3.44 will be ok.  A 3.76 might give you a bit more off the line, but uses a few more revs on the motorway.

 

Loving the finish on the block.

 

 

Thanks for the heads up.  With the cam, lightened flywheel and CR box I don't think it's going to be great off the line anyway

Fantastic work as always Pete - looking very good

 

Thanks,

 

I'm just waiting for some big end shells and the cam to arrive then I can start the engine build. In the meantime, I'm sorting a few bits out -

 

Door seals cut to length

 

 

 

These have metal inserts in them

 

 

 

Left unprotected they will rust. The rust stains will then start penetrating the paint on the door step and it's the start of the end. To keep the seal aligned, I used a cut off

 

 

Then coated the lot including the metal insert with sikaflex before assembly

 

 

Hopefully it will seal providing some protection

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jase]

Didn't fancy the furlex ones?

[Petrol]

Didn't fancy the furlex ones?

 

Not heard of those. Do you have a linky?

 

Pete

[Jase]

It would help if I had spelt it correctly :

 

https://www.google.c...CFUGfFAodsr4HeQ

 

I had a set on my Spitfire when I bought it many years ago. Apparently it was standard on some of the Triumphs.

[Petrol]

Think I will go for the stock ones. Just for the record, later MPi Mini's had an extra lip on the door seals that went over the inner sill carpet to give a neater finish.

 

At the moment, door seals are the least of my problems. I'm having major problems with the oil temp gauge/sender I bought. Thought it might be a good idea to test it first and it's about 50% out of calibration  I've also lost count of how many big end / main bearing sets I've picked up that have been wrong

 

It's pretty simple, Later A+ Block and crank uses main shells with different tangs (these are the cutouts to locate the shells)

 

This is the tang in the block which is offset

 

 

The Tang in the cap is more or less central

 

 

So, these shells with all offset tangs won't fit and are for pre A+ engines and A+ up to 1984

 

 

I have a lot of patience but this lot is very annoying

 

 

Pete

Edited by Petrol, 06 November 2015 - 08:02 PM.

[CAU998]

The arch seals are from Somerford Mini. GAW117FK - Fitting kit, standard arches

Thanks for that, don't want to go off topic but don't suppose you know what the four small silver rivets in the kit are for?

Hope you get your parts woes sorted, the engines looking fantastic.

Cheers

[GraemeC]

I had exactly the same issue with ordering/getting the wrong main shells. 

However as I was trying to get the engine built and couldn't get any others in a short timeframe, I simply slotted the caps to suit what I had.

[Petrol]

The rivets are to fasten the arches to the shell but I used rivnuts.

 

I've now got the right shells

 

 

Marked 0.254 which is 10 thou in old money

 

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

[pmplovesminis2006]

great stuff pete the right ones   ,did you give them a good telling off !!!