1843 replies to this topic

[Petrol]

very impressive work

 

Thanks for the kind words

Fantastic build!

What degreaser did you use to get the black oily stains off the inside of the gearbox case?

I used Turtle wax degreaser -

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Max, Might not be aggressive enough for powder coatings. They do two types, red is coarse and blue is fine http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5404f1ca35 Pete

It's not suitable for removing powder coat. it will just get hot and smudge it i would have thought

I have a coarse wire brush coming, will give it a try on some powder coat

Just seen this, cheers for the reply and for that link Pete!

 

 

No prob. I have a powder coated bracket to strip so will post up how I get on.

 

Plastic brushes are deffo the way to go for ally

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

[RossKnight]

That has come up incredibly well!

[Petrol]

It might be just what I'm looking for to take the powder coating off my rocker cover! Do you have a weblink for that Abrasive brush Pete?

Thanks
Max

 

 

 

I've tried loads of wire brushes to remove powder coating and none of them work. These include twisted coarse brushes for an angle grinder.  As Ben_O says it just smudges -

 

 

 

I then tried soaking it in paint thinners for 24 Hrs and that did nothing. I now have a phone No and contact name to ask advice. I will let you know how I get on

 

Pete

[minimaxie]

It might be just what I'm looking for to take the powder coating off my rocker cover! Do you have a weblink for that Abrasive brush Pete?ThanksMax

  I've tried loads of wire brushes to remove powder coating and none of them work. These include twisted coarse brushes for an angle grinder.  As Ben_O says it just smudges -   I then tried soaking it in paint thinners for 24 Hrs and that did nothing. I now have a phone No and contact name to ask advice. I will let you know how I get on  Pete

thanks Pete appreciate your input. I think the only option is to take it to my local mediablaster as I've dealt with numerous devices to take the powdercoat off to no avail

thanks

Max

Edited by minimaxie, 19 September 2015 - 12:13 AM.

[Petrol]

Hi Max,

 

This sorted it

 

 

 

Pete

[Domneon]

 

I lost a fight with a knotted wire wheel like that

 

 

Although it did kill my grinder as well

Edited by Domneon, 21 September 2015 - 08:00 PM.

[jackgreen91]

I hate those bloody things! I also had a run in with a cup wheel but not at severe as above, took a chunk out of my leg after wrapping the grinder up in my not baggy trousers. They are notorious for running unbalanced. Not surprisingly. Beware, they'll take anything they can get! Great thread as always Pete. Still watching with interest.

[minimaxie]

Hi Max,

 

This sorted it

 

 

 

Pete

Hi Pete

 

Excellent! Thanks for taking the time to do that :)

 

thanks again Pete

[Petrol]

No prob, it needed stripping anyway as I'm not a huge fan of powder coat.

Those knotty wire wheels do tend to grab and I don't like using them.

 

Got the rear lights in, normal bulbs in here as LED's tend to give the wrong light through the lens

 

 

LED's for the front and side repeaters though

 

 

 

 

 

I don't know what these clips are called but this type is used to hold the front indicators in

 

 

 

 

These are notorious for rusting so I have bought some stainless cap screws, oversize washers and nyloc nuts

 

 

 

 

 

Pete

 

[Artstu]

Spire clips. I guess plastic ones would be a good option if there was no rear access to hold nuts on. These  wheel arch ones are a bit fat.

 

Edited by Artstu, 23 September 2015 - 09:13 AM.

[Petrol]

Spire clips. I guess plastic ones would be a good option if there was no rear access to hold nuts on. These  wheel arch ones are a bit fat.

 

Thanks, I need some M6 ones for the Nissan and now I know what they are called, have found some alloy ones

[Petrol]

Radiator fan cowling has a bracket spot welded to the bottom of it

 

 

Seam sealed it to prevent moisture getting in

 

 

 

This could possibly be the biggest change of direction since I started building this car....

 

 

 

It's brand new but a 30 year old close ratio straight cut 4 syncro gear kit. One of the problems with some modern parts is they are made to a tight budget often using poor quality steel and built with poor tolerances - as I found out with the radius arms. Some of these parts are made in China. This however is an old skool Ripspeed gear kit with Jack Knight baulk rings so it should be made of decent materials, the gears should be properly case hardened and hopefully it will last.

 

I know it's going to whine but on the plus side, straight cut gears transfer more power to the wheels (helical gears loose a bit of energy due to the lateral force) The close ratio gears will open a whole new avenue of cam choices. With a higher lift cam, the CR is less at tickover so I can use quite a lightweight flywheel. With a 3.44 diff, 10" wheels and "half race" cam it might not be such a sloutch despite the 998 engine. The engine is currently being rebored and the crank ground. I am having new cam bearings fitted and everything balanced. I may need a bit of help working out how much to skim off the head but until the block is back, I have no idea of volumes.

 

I have been at this for so long now but have to say, I'm excited at the direction it's now going

 

Pete

Edited by Petrol, 27 September 2015 - 09:02 PM.

[alchall]

That's quite some find, how did you come across it?

[Petrol]

That's quite some find, how did you come across it?

 

TMF!

 

http://www.theminifo...o-crsc-gearkit/

[alchall]

haha, where else would it have come from!

 

Those alloy parts have come up brilliantly by the way, I know what I'll be doing with mine now.....