1843 replies to this topic

[Petrol]

Twin tanks are uber cool but I'm trying to keep the car as light and as simple as possible. Less is best and all that. I did think about it but decided to have the washer bottle in the boot to keep the engine bay as tidy as possible.

 

 

 

 

Range isn't really an issue, even with the modded engine if it does 100 miles to a tank, it's enough for what I will be using the car for.

 

Pete

[Petrol]

Gearbox is stripped. It needs

 

4 x baulk rings

1st gear synchro

2nd gear synchro

3rd gear synchro

4th gear synchro

1-2 drive hub

3-4 drive hub

 

In other words, a new box

 

Pete

 

[Petrol]

Progress has been slow due to other commitments but I'm hoping to get lots of stuff fitted to the shell quite soon. 

 

Inside the fuel tank only had slight traces of rust so I filled it with deox C and left it overnight. I then rinsed it out and dried it out with a hairdryer. With the sender and cap out it soon got hot and dried out. I then sprayed a load of WD 40 inside it to stop any further rust forming. After cleaning the outside with panel wipe to get rid of any WD 40, and a quick wire brush....

 

 

I sprayed on 2 coats of Electrox zinc primer. This will be followed by a couple of coats of epoxy 2K black.

 

 

Before I can fit the tank I need to fit the rear shocks which I don't have yet. The problem is, I don't know what shocks to buy. The main focus of this car is good road holding and handling - I appreciate there is a difference between the two.

 

Setup so far is -

Solid mounted front subframe

Hi Lows on new rubber cones

Adjustable tie rods

Adjustable lower arms

Rear camber / toe brackets

Wheels will be 5 X 10

Rubber will be Yoko A032R's

 

I want adjustable for obvious reasons but on the softest setting, I don't want them to be too stiff as this can lead to skipping on undulated road surfaces. At the end of the day, It's a road car not a track car.

 

All comments are welcome on which route I should take with the shocks.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Pete

[GraemeC]

For adjustable so I'd be looking at Protech or Spax

[evansisgreat]

I've been looking at dampers a lot lately and I'd say short of dropping £4k on a custom Öhlin setup, Protech seem to have the best reputation.

[evoderby]

Between a £250 Protech set and a 4K Öhlins set lies a world of choices, for instance Spax Mini7 upside down single adjustable dampers @ around £600 a set, Avo double adjustable 2" alloy motorsport dampers as successfully used on some front running Miglias @ around £ 800 a set, KAD Quantum non adjustable dampers @ around £ 1600 a set to name just a few.

You get what you pay for and sometimes a tad bit more;-)

[Petrol]

Thank you very much for your help. That Öhlins stuff looks the dogs

Nail on head evoderby, you get what you pay for. I will give Protech a call next week as at the mo, they seem to be the best bet for me. I'm glad I asked now

 

Got quite a bit done. Some random pics

 

Console front painted black before carbon wrap

 

 

Switch plate modded to take savage switches

 

 

Master cylinder stripped

 

 

Fuel tank sprayed black, this need a bit more work

 

 

Thought I had sprayed the bonnet .... Oh dear

 

 

The most important lever fitted

 

 

 

Front subby locking collar

 

 

Foam seal between back seat upright and rear 1/4 panel. I went for grey rather than the stock yellow

 

 

Front suspension

 

 

 

Headlights

 

 

I need to get some some good bulbs for these

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Steve220]

Pete,

It's great to see her going back together now!

Can you let us know which options of the protech you end up going for? As I want to place my order soon and I'm delaying it as I have no idea what to get! :-/

[Jared Mk3]

I'm surprised you haven't refurbed the wheels, even to just move it around   Great job as always. I also have a set of Cibies going on mine. I', keen to see the how they perform with Osram Nightbreakers in.

[Petrol]

Pete,

It's great to see her going back together now!

Can you let us know which options of the protech you end up going for? As I want to place my order soon and I'm delaying it as I have no idea what to get! :-/

 

The options are steel or alloy, and lowered. Whilst slamming a car makes it look good, it doesn't always improve road holding / handling. I don't plan to lower it much as I don't want it riding on the bump stops when cornering hard. I'm building this for 100% "big grin on face" when driving and am compromising on looks big time. I will have chat with protech, take some impartial advice and post up my plan

 

 

I'm surprised you haven't refurbed the wheels, even to just move it around   Great job as always. I also have a set of Cibies going on mine. I', keen to see the how they perform with Osram Nightbreakers in.

 

LOL at refurbing the wheels The bloke that lent them to me is a legend. Without his help, this build would be half the job it is!

As far as lights go,. I'm going to fit a brace of Cibe Oscars on the front

 

Switch panel ready to go in.

 

 

 

 

[Petrol]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pete

 

 

[Ben_O]

now that IS smart.

[Jared Mk3]

I'm getting ideas now. Love it.

[Petrol]

now that IS smart.

 

Thanks Ben. The original plan was to fit a Minisport stainless bar across the front like this

 

 

It looked a bit "heavy" so I decided to fit the spots straight to the brackets. Less is best and all that. Been there, done that before.....

 

 

They need a bit of stiffening but there's room at the back

 

 

 

 

I'm getting ideas now. Love it.

 

That's what forums are for

 

 

These bonnet buttons aren't working out though

 

 

 

I can't get the bloody bonnet off Depressing the button releases the catch but it's just too much messing about. Think I will have to fit good old bonnet pins.

 

The scuttle to bonnet gap is impossible to get tight. This is due to the angle of the fold on the back of the bonnet. Get it too tight and the bonnet will hit the scuttle when lifted. I appreciate I have no hinges but moving the bonnet further back will throw the shut lines out at the front. It's all a compromise.

 

My plan is to use high density foam around the bonnet aperture. This will prevent chipping the paint when the bonnet is removed / replaced

 

 

It also hides the big panel gap

 

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

[Ben_O]

what are the round black things on the dash rail?