1843 replies to this topic

[zeemax89]

Ross, one of those guns should do a whole Mini - shell included. Just a reminder to always clean out a new gun, there can be cutting fluid inside after the machining

 

I have dug some more pics out of the inner wing / shock mount arrangement zeemax89.

 

With the inner wing cut out, you can see the flanges on the X member

 

 

These are what I welded in. Left to right-

 

Inner wing stiffener, this was the extended plate

Inner wing repair plate - to repair the hole in the inner wing

Inner wing to X member brace

 

 

 

First job was to weld the repair plate into the inner wing. At this point it wasn't welded to the X member flanges

 

 

The inner wing stiffener goes between the inner wing and the X member flanges so that's 4 layers

 

Inner wing

Inner wing stiffener

X member flange

X member brace

 

 

 

I spot welded the lot all in one go

 

 

 

I can post a pic up of the finished job but it's easier to see without seam sealer and paint.

 

Hope that helps and thanks domdee for the pics I should have both the plates and the adhesive soon. Iv'e got a great idea

 

Pete

 

 

 

Many thanks for the pictures.  I was more asking about the rearwards edge of the spreader.  looking at your last image you can see it nearly but not quite meets the vertical flange of the firewall / bulkhead panel.

That's given me all i need for now.  Hope you don't mind if i pop in from time to time with more questions.  Loved your thread and all the detailed descriptions and pictures, I found it very informative.

 

Regards

 

George

[Petrol]

Hi George,

 

The rear edge of the spreader isn't welded to the the bulkhead. These pics might help. Ignore the primer, these were taken before I stripped this section down.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As always, any Q's just fire away

 

Pete

[Petrol]

I went over to Minisport at the weekend to have a look at some cars with solid mounted front subframes. I couldn't see any difference in the shell construction to mine. There was even an original BMC works rally car there which I paid particular attention to. Maybe the steel thickness of older shells was the key

 

 

 

Belt and braces approach is often best in this situation so these are the stainless plates I bought - 3mm thick

 

 

 

They need trimming but will be fitted here

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A 2K adhesive is required for such a large surface area bond. 1K products are air drying and would take forever to cure. This stuff is ideal

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item56556b4277

 

Should be strong enough when done

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

[vsl_london]

Project keeps looking better every day, so much I've learnt reading from this already. Thanks for taking the time to document all this! :)

 

Out of curiosity, when you painted the vents and the mating surface on the brake discs did you need to take any special precautions (like applying too much paint)? Also, that's just standard caliper paint, right? Really tempted to do this myself since I have the set ready to be fitted soon :)   

 

Nice touch with the foam in the drawers, will definitely need to do that for mine as it's currently looking like the inside of my girlfriends purse 

 

Keep up the amazing work!

 

Victor

[GraemeC]

No difference in shell construction, the difference is where the subframes are mounted.

Edited by GraemeC, 01 April 2015 - 07:22 AM.

[Frank the Tank]

Your attention to detail makes me sad, I really hope I move up the waiting list for a garge so I can get a project and apply even half of your commitment.

Epic build thread.

[Petrol]

Project keeps looking better every day, so much I've learnt reading from this already. Thanks for taking the time to document all this! :)

 

Out of curiosity, when you painted the vents and the mating surface on the brake discs did you need to take any special precautions (like applying too much paint)? Also, that's just standard caliper paint, right? Really tempted to do this myself since I have the set ready to be fitted soon :)   

 

Nice touch with the foam in the drawers, will definitely need to do that for mine as it's currently looking like the inside of my girlfriends purse 

 

Keep up the amazing work!

 

Victor

 

Hi Victor,

 

It's just standard caliper paint. I have done this on many cars and not had any problem painting the drive flange. It's best not to go mad on paint thickness though, I sprayed a light dust coat on first, then put just enough on to cover. The drawers are great, it makes it so much easier to find stuff and will save time in the long run.

 

No difference in shell construction, the difference is where the subframes are mounted.

 

Thanks, looked more into this and have decided to do the mods as below.

 

Your attention to detail makes me sad, I really hope I move up the waiting list for a garge so I can get a project and apply even half of your commitment.

Epic build thread.

 

I have refurbed a couple of cars outside but it's hard work. I started this project on the drive but a change in personal circumstances enabled me to use the space in the garage again. The best advice I can offer on any rebuild is don't be in too much of a hurry to get it done. It takes time and rushing, often leads to mistakes.

 

Thanks for the kind words guys, this is where I am up to with the front subframe-

 

 

As GraemeC pointed out, there is no difference in the shell. The solid mounted subframes are totally different to the rubber mounted ones-

 

 

Rubber mounted subframes bolt only to the toe board. Early solid mounted ones also bolt through the floor like this

 

 

 

The proper way to solid mount a late model car is to buy an early subframe and weld the rear "arms" onto the later subframe. This will give the correct mounting arrangement. This project is a bit beyond doing that so this is the plan.....

 

3mm stainless plates I made to reinforce the toe board ready to be bolted and bonded on

 

 

I can't mod the subframe now but by welding an additional plate that runs under the floor like this

 

 

Will replicate the original setup.

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[slidehammer]

Hi, I might have missed something in this project thread but why don't you use a Polly bush kit to mount the subframes?, So you get a good compromise between rigidity and ride comfort. I intend to use one on my next project as they get good reviews. They should help cut down on noise as well.

[Petrol]

Hi, I might have missed something in this project thread but why don't you use a Polly bush kit to mount the subframes?, So you get a good compromise between rigidity and ride comfort. I intend to use one on my next project as they get good reviews. They should help cut down on noise as well.

 

That was the original plan. I bought a full poly kit but after some research, I won't be using any, not even on the suspension bushes. Instead I'm locking the front subby and using stock type rubber bushes on everything else. Have a look on page 63 post #937 for more info on locking the front subby

 

Pete

[gadget555]

Stunning!

[Petrol]

Thanks gadget555. I've paid a lot of attention to detail on this build but at the end of the day, it's all about the drive. I hope it lives up to my expectations.

 

I haven't updated this thread for a while but whilst waiting for the front subby plates to be welded, Ive been sorting lots of stuff.....

Steering column cleaned up ready for paint

 

It's a MK3 innards with a MK5 welded over the top to increase rigidity. 

 

 

Made a new battery cover out of plastic covered foam, light and a bit more durable than the stock item

 

 

Started building up the carbs, only the bodies are left of what I bought, everything else is new

 

 

 

 

Also started cleaning engine parts up

 

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

[vsl_london]

Hi Pete. Don't suppose you might have a guide for making the battery cover? My old cardboard one is on it's last legs and I'd really like to try my hand at making something more sturdy. The replacement you've made look top notch (very much like the rest of the project...) Thanks in advance! 

Victor

[Petrol]

Hi Victor, All I did was mark out the shape of the old one on some foamalux then cut it out. I used a 2 part superglue to bond it all together. The plan is to paint / cover / wrap it so it looks a bit better. I will post up the details when I do some more work on it.

 

Back to the subby mounts, this is what I have ended up with

 

 

These plates not only stiffen the toe board, but now run under the floor like this - OS

 

 

NS

 

 

I have drilled the shell (EEK!) to bolt them on. The pics are a dry fit but by the time these plates are both bolted and bonded on, it will be stronger than an early solid mount arrangement.

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Petrol]

Masked the body up for a neat finish with the panel adhesive

 

 

Adhesive is best applied to both the shell

 

 

And the plate

 

 

Bolted on

 

 

That should be strong enough to bolt the subby straight on

 

Pete

 

[RossKnight]

I don't think that's moving in a hurry!