Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild
#901
Posted 19 February 2015 - 08:23 AM
#902
Posted 19 February 2015 - 12:01 PM
Glutton for punishment that's for sure. I've been trying to find the post/posts you did in this thread on some alloy wheels you refurbished for someone, without success. Do you know which page it is on? Perhaps if you get the time you could do an index on the first post like on the Nissan builds?
#903
Posted 19 February 2015 - 08:19 PM
The Cooper Sport is a very long term project. It's in pretty good shape and unlike this project, comes with boot floor, rear arches and most of the inner sills! It's also very low mileage. The plan is to store it for some time but need to find somewhere. My garage is full of this project at the moment.
The wheel refurb is on the Nissan forum Artstu -
http://www.sxoc.com/...-refurb/page114
I will try to sort an index out for this thread
Pete
#904
Posted 19 February 2015 - 11:50 PM
WOW.. some of us are already envious enough, now you double it with another beautiful car!! Fabulous Pete!!
#905
Posted 20 February 2015 - 11:36 PM
LOL Mini Waco. to be honest I would have preferred an old skool Cooper but my wallet isn't that big so this will have to do. It's just soooo tempting to raid a few parts off it but I won't do that as I want to keep it as original as possible. It's only done 13K miles. I can post some more pics up if it's of interest to anyone.
My main focus is on this build and there's a lot going on at the moment trying to sort the engine out - things get complicated and you have to sort out the BS from the reality
Only update is the clips for the front brake pipe
Some of them were too long so I bought some shorter ones. Again, stainless but these look OK
Pete
#906
Posted 20 February 2015 - 11:40 PM
I would be interested to see more of the other one Pete, if you wouldn't mind?
#907
Posted 20 February 2015 - 11:45 PM
I would be interested to see more of the other one Pete, if you wouldn't mind?
No Problemo Ben.
Pete
#908
Posted 21 February 2015 - 08:43 AM
#909
Posted 21 February 2015 - 08:31 PM
#911
Posted 22 February 2015 - 10:40 PM
Just finished reading this from start to finish, i must say the level of work you have put into this is absolutley awesome, and given me plenty of ideas/inspiration for my first project cracking work .
#912
Posted 23 February 2015 - 09:12 PM
Thanks Spud21. Took the bulkhead sound proofing out of the sport. Took 2 hours to get it out without damaging it
It's too heavy for this build but used it as a template for a lightweight version made out of carpet underlay
Front subby hung for gloss
Painted black. Need to leave it a month or so before spraying Dynax inside the box sections
Pete
#913
Posted 23 February 2015 - 09:34 PM
#914
Posted 23 February 2015 - 09:56 PM
Why a month, Pete? Is it to make sure full paint cure and no potential reaction?
Dynax is white spirit based so I could spray it on 24 hours after and it wouldn't react. It takes quite a long time for 2K paint to fully harden despite the hardener. The paint isn't fully hard until all the solvents have evaporated and at 15C, takes some time. What it needs is a couple of days of hot sun - that would sort it! The aim it to get a tough coating to prevent chips and a coating of Dynax would prevent the solvents from evaporating leaving the paint soft.
HTH Steve,
Pete
#915
Posted 27 February 2015 - 10:10 PM
Bilt Hamber makes 3 types of wax protection-
Dynax S50 is a box section wax and has excellent penetration properties to get into the seams. When I built the shell, I only sprayed Electrox zinc primer into the box sections - I didn't use any coloured gloss. The reason for this is the Dynax will be attracted to the metals in the primer and offer much better protection. I posted pics of treating the shell earlier in the thread.
Dynax UB is similar to the S50 being very dark brown in coulour but doesn't penetrate as well. It's purpose is to protect the underbody hence the name. It offers a better mechanical protection than S50 and has UV stabilisers to prevent deterioration with sunlight. (You don't get sunlight inside of box sections)
Dynax UC is similar to the UB but offers an almost clear protective film. It goes on a lot thinner and is ideal when you want to protect body coloured parts.
To treat the rear subframe, I used a long lance with the S50 box section wax
This has a 360 degree nozzle on the end
It's just a case of spraying the stuff into the box sections like this. It's best to rotate the tube to ensure better coverage. It's also worth mentioning that I did this with the subframe upside down first, then the right way round.
Next I used the UB stuff with a shorter, straight nozzle
To spray in here where the water could lodge
There are lots of areas difficult to get to but this nozzle made it easy. Also sprayed the top side with a conventional spray nozzle, this would be very difficult when fitted
Then across the front where it goes up to the heel board
Fitted the brake hoses
Sprayed Dynax UC on heel board
Then the areas over the top of the subframe
Time to fit it. 5/16 Stainless bolts
Cap screws of course
Smiffys Stainless washers for the rear mount
Can't find the washers for the front trunnions
I also can't find a poly bush for the rear
I have 3 but need 4. How can you lose one
Pete
Edited by Petrol, 27 February 2015 - 10:28 PM.
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