Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild
#871
Posted 22 January 2015 - 05:31 AM
#872
Posted 22 January 2015 - 09:03 AM
Hi Pete
Did you strip the old vinyl off first or stick the new over the top of it ??
Looks great by the way !!
Phil.
#873
Posted 22 January 2015 - 01:02 PM
#874
Posted 22 January 2015 - 09:30 PM
This looks ace, where did you get the tape if you don't mind me asking. I am currently looking for a way to run the wiring for my amp (yet to buy) before laying my carpet. In that vein what wiring did you use? Sorry for the questions, but you're so knowledgable 😄
#875
Posted 22 January 2015 - 10:27 PM
Ive managed to read through this whole thread over a few days and im amazed at the level of work youve put in! A totally cracking job.
#876
Posted 22 January 2015 - 11:55 PM
Again, Thanks for the kind words. If you take your time with any job and do your homework, it's easy to get good results. Have a look at this for vinyl covering
The key words are "let the glue tack up" I applied the vinyl over the top of the original so the switch plate is gonna be a bit tight
The tape I'm using for the loom is propellor tape which is used in the aircraft industry, not cheap but much better than gaffer tape.
Speaker cable I bought is this
http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Ruckus from this forum recommended it. He knows his ICE stuff and has helped me no end
Pete
#877
Posted 23 January 2015 - 11:14 PM
This is the stock MPI bracket that fastens the column to the lower dash rail
Wood and Picket sell this lowering alloy bracket which I bought some time ago
to be honest this whole arrangement is a bit of a hotchpotch for a number of reasons. Brackets on brackets is not really the way to go. The solution -
Still needs a bit of work but this bracket is the dogs
For those who have an eye for detail, I have moved the bonnet release lever over to enable the speaker pods to be fitted. I did this whilst the shell was being welded
Pete
#878
Posted 24 January 2015 - 05:25 AM
this is easily in my favourite 3 threads... even project binky must admire your Fab skills
#879
Posted 24 January 2015 - 09:01 PM
I can't take credit for the steering drop bracket Bought my way out of that one
http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Decided to go for Savage switches. I will have to fit some relays as they won't take the current. God help anyone who has to work on the electrics later down the line. Most of the loom is from an early 80's car, some of it is MPI and the rest is a "Petrol Spesh" The thing is, the colours on the wires are different between the spliced looms
4 Plate switch holes blanked off with Fibral - chopped matting in resin
Back
Also got the rack painted
Did this with etch primer followed by 3 coats of 2K gloss.
Pete
#880
Posted 24 January 2015 - 09:15 PM
Why does it state to remove the airbag when fitting the bracket? (i understand you're removing yours, Pete)
#881
Posted 24 January 2015 - 09:30 PM
I'm short, currently the airbag would probably go off in front of me rather than stop me hitting the wheel.
#882
Posted 24 January 2015 - 11:05 PM
I'd very much appreciate it if we could keep this thread on topic. All I'm trying to do is help people with advice and guidance on how to refurb / rebuild a car.
I really don't care about the ins and out of airbag deployment - nuff said.
Just to add, I get quite a few PM's from members asking me about the products and techniques I use. They say they don't want to "clutter" the thread. Feel free to post on here any techie Q's you have and I will do my best to answer them. If I can't answer them..... I probably know someone that will
Pete
#883
Posted 25 January 2015 - 11:09 PM
I want to use LED lights. It's mostly a case of just replacing the bulbs but the indicators can be a bit tricky due to the flasher unit.
This is the stock flasher unit which was mounted behind the dash on the bulkhead
The problem is, when you fit LED's they draw less current and the indicators flash too fast. I bought a replacement flasher unit off ebay suitable for LED's but when I plugged it in, it didn't work. After a lot of reading, it turns out that not all flasher units have the same pin outs. In other words you can't just plug any flasher unit in because the connections are different. There are only 3 wires though so it was simple enough to sort -
I cut the plastic connector off and fitted spades to the wires
The savage dashboard switches will need some relays, in particular one for the rear heated window and one to turn the dipped beam off when high beam is on. This is the bracket I'm making to mount the relays. I will also fix the flasher unit to it
Fits in here on the NS behind the dash rail.
Pete
#884
Posted 27 January 2015 - 11:44 PM
Bought some orange led lights for the front indicators
The pins on these are offset, exactly the same as the stock item
Would they work? Nope. After a bit off messing about I sussed it. The indicator bulb holders were wired at the factory the wrong way round. On a bulb the center pin is always + Ve and the outer bit is earth.
I swapped the cables over and it's now sorted
Pete
#885
Posted 29 January 2015 - 10:36 PM
I made some brackets for the Cobra seats I bought a while ago. Recline adjusters are fitted to both sides of the seats. As you can see they are a bit bulky
The main problem was fouling the companion bin
Took the adjusting rod out from the seat and found a number plate screw fit exactly inside it
Cut the rod down so it was flush with the end of the seat
Then glued the screw in with this 2K super glue
It now clears the companion bin
It's a while since I sprayed these steering rack mounting U bolts. New anti slip nylon strips, stainless washers and nyloc nuts
New foam seal on the rack
Then fitted it loosely
I need to get the column angle finalised before the rack is tightened.
Pete
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