1843 replies to this topic

[Petrol]

Fitted the pedal box and chopped more out of the console. Can't do any more than that, I've even moved the heater over to the left to give a bit more room around the clutch pedal.

 

 

 

 

Can you use the Cibie's with the Mpi electronic height adjustable headlight gubbins?

 

Yes they fit straight in

 

Pete where do you buy your stainless steel nuts and bolts from, local or online?

 

Ebay, mainly from here

 

http://stores.ebay.c...rkshop-Supplies

 

 

 

Pete

[domdee]

The thread name change really threw me!

Smashing work as usual. It's really coming together now

[Anthony30]

Can't wait to see this car finished.

[Petrol]

The thread name change really threw me!

Smashing work as usual. It's really coming together now

 

Sorry,  hopefully the thread title is a better description of what I'm now building

 

Can't wait to see this car finished.

 

I have an awful lot to do, it would have been easier and probably cheaper, rebuilding an original spec rarity like a 997 Cooper but the point of this build is purely for the driving experience.

 

When installing a loom, it's best to get the big stuff in first - Speaker and phono cables

 

 

This is where they go through the OS companion bin

 

 

Crossover network boxes fitted behind the dash. I have soldered the cables on and shrink wrapped them. Also note the speaker cables running right up to the bulkhead to save space.

 

 

Struggling with the weather at the moment big time. Can't spray in the garage as the shell is in there. I need to spray the seat mounts and get the seats fitted to make the new steering column. I've also loads of stuff like these lower arms and engine steady that need painting

 

 

This is the rack I will be using

 

 

Most "new" parts are made overseas and are not built using the same quality of steel or indeed the same hardening processes that the originals were built from.

 

This is one part I don't want to compromise on

 

 

 

The new steering column will be built up from this lot

 

 

Bottom of pic is the MPI column. Above that is an earlier column insert. The rest are various outer columns. The plan is to use a MK3 column and extend it. The switches will be Mk3 (indicators on the right stalk, wipers on the left) Like this

 

 

However I want to use the MPI steering lock / switch as it has more positions (key in and radio powers up without ignition on)

 

 

Just to make it more difficult, the earlier column wont bolt straight on to the lower dash rail as it has a different fixing arrangement, the MPI steering lock won't fit either - the columns are a different diameter and I'm hoping to use the MPI  steering column cowl.

 

Confused? So am I

 

Just hope it will be worth it when it's done.

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

[evansisgreat]

Good luck with all those columns. Have you seen any installs of rover 100 columns? They're similar to the MPI one, but longer and have a single universal joint.
I think there's even one with two UJs. Although I don't know how you'd mount that.

[Carvell]

Thanks for checking the cibies :)

[Jase]

That's interesting, I haven't taken my steering column out of my GT donor car yet. I'm guessing this won't fit as the heritage shell is a MPi shell with a clubman front

[Jase]

Fantastic work, keeps us all enthused and may even motivate me into my cold garage soon.

[Petrol]

Thanks for checking the cibies :)

 

No problem

 

That's interesting, I haven't taken my steering column out of my GT donor car yet. I'm guessing this won't fit as the heritage shell is a MPi shell with a clubman front

 

It's likely that the pedal box is different on the MPI's. The Clubby shell is probably the same as the Heritage one Jase

 

MK3 steering column tube and bracket

 

 

Bracket cut off the MPI column and adapted to fit the MK3

 

 

Bracket for the cowling

 

 

The MPI tube fits exactly over the MK3 tube. 

 

 

This means I can weld one tube over the other and use the MPI ignition barrel

 

 

Inner column will be extended by welding these together. I don't know exactly how much I'm going to extend it at the moment. The brake and clutch pedals are fixed but the seat and now the column are adjustable. I need to fit the drivers seat, position it for comfy pedals then adjust the column to suit.

 

 

Mk3 column & steering wheel boss, with MPI cowling

 

 

Pete

[MrBounce]

I have just read all of this. Pete, I salute you. I feel my rebuild lags some way behind yours in the quality stakes!! Absolutely brilliant work

[F1L8EY]

if your extending the steering column will you need to extend the loom to get to the indicator stalk and ignition ect ? (I'm teasing you really I'm sure you have thought of all of this already)

 

     

[Petrol]

Thanks for the kind words MrBounce but everything seems to be going at a snails pace at the mo

 

F1L8EY thanks for the heads up but the loom does need a bit of sorting 

 

 

I don't know what switches to go for. Original plan was to use savage switches above the heater but this means relays as they won't take the current. I'm just trying to keep things simple. I only need switches for side lights, headlights, hazards and RHW. There are some pretty cool toggle switches but since quite a few people will probably drive this car, they could do to have legends on them.

 

I have also moved the speaker cables as they looked a bit too close to the throttle pedal

 

 

 

Bit more on the electrics, this is a headlight bowl with the attachment for the leveler.

 

 

 

I'm not using these and going for fixed headlights. Fitted the MPI loom into standard headlight bowls

 

 

 

I'm not a fan of crimps so I soldered and shrink wrapped em

 

 

 

New heater matrix.

 

 

 

The heat output from the matrix on later Minis was higher (3KW IIRC) couple that with a 2 speed fan & plastic enclosure and that will do for me   The problem with Mini heater boxes however is the poor seal between the matrix and the box. What happens is the air from the fan blows around the matrix rather than through it resulting in poor performance. To sort this I lined the box with foam

 

 

This was glued in with high temp spray adhesive. Then I added some self adhesive foam to seal the end

 

 

It was getting tight at this stage due to the foam sealing the end

 

 

Before I pushed it fully home, I added some butyl sealant

 

 

 

Couple of stainless self tappers to secure it and another job done

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[evansisgreat]

That's almost exactly what I did when my MPI heater matrix was leaking. I found I'd make it too efficient and it kept roasting my feet

[Petrol]

That's almost exactly what I did when my MPI heater matrix was leaking. I found I'd make it too efficient and it kept roasting my feet

 

Sounds good to me The last thing you want is cold feet when "yer dancin' on the pedals"

 

New heater matrix outlet pipes. Used a bit of sealant on these as well as the O rings.

 

 

Lower dash rail cover had some marks in it from a poorly re fitted dash

 

 

These ain't cheap so I decided to re cover it. I bought some "Marine grade, car seat upholstery vinyl" It's not worth using budget vinyl as it scuffs easily. A simple test is to push you fingernail into it. This stuff seems good enough

 

 

Sprayed the rail and vinyl with adhesive

 

 

 

 

 

 

Again if you use cheap, it wont last. It gets hot inside of a car in summer so high temp stuff is needed

 

 

 

I left it about 30 mins before fitting the covering. I also used a hair drier to make the vinyl a bit more supple around the curves

 

 

 

To get the vinyl to fit tight into the contours properly, I used a toothbrush handle.

 

 

Pete

[Ben_O]

you seem to be able to do every single job perfectly Pete.

 

I am very impressed with that re-cover. I have seen so many that have wrinkles and creases in them, your's looks perfect.