Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild
#811
Posted 27 December 2014 - 04:10 AM
The 295 head looks to be in good nick though!
#812
Posted 27 December 2014 - 01:11 PM
You probably know that SU carb rebuild kits are readily available. I did the same thing, bought a pair of twin 11/4's from ebay, the plan is to replace everything that moves. I bought a sonic cleaner to aid with cleaning these small parts, works very well especially with carbs.
#813
Posted 27 December 2014 - 10:21 PM
I'm really pleased with the head, it looks in great condition. I bought the carbs off here but planned on refurbing them anyway.
Stripped the green paint off by soaking in thinners
Then scrubbed with Farecla G10 using a toothbrush
The plan is to try a new throttle spindle in the body and check for any play. If the bodies need bushing I will probably just buy a brand new set of carbs. If I had my time again, I would have just bought a brand new set and had done with it. Hindsight is wonderful thing though. To be honest, you're better off with a single big carb but twins look good and sound a bit better.
Weather was half decent today so I did a black paint run. I'm working towards a rolling shell slowly. One of the things I need to bolt to the shell before the rear subby is fitted is the fuel tank support
Pete
#814
Posted 27 December 2014 - 10:44 PM
Pete, what "thinners" do you use ?? Is it normal celly thinners ??
I can get what they call gun cleaning thinners reasonably cheap for cleaning stuff, is that what I need ??
I don't "do" painting yet so it's not like I have any kicking around me.
Phil.
#815
Posted 27 December 2014 - 11:09 PM
Hi Phil,
Celly, whilst still available has pretty much long gone. Standard thinners or gun wash (same as gun cleaning thinners) is what I used to remove the paint from the carbs. It's great for cleaning stuff up but it does leave a residue behind. If you want to degrease then panel wipe is the best bet. To remove heavy, ground in dirt from say an old engine part the I use Turtle wax degreaser which is a water based product.
Hope that helps, any more Q's just ask
Pete
#816
Posted 27 December 2014 - 11:21 PM
Phil.
#817
Posted 27 December 2014 - 11:26 PM
No problemo
Pete
#818
Posted 28 December 2014 - 11:00 AM
Price of new carbs is astronomical - £600ish?? There a re a few good refurbishers about. How would you check for re-bushing? Is this a visual check?
#819
Posted 28 December 2014 - 04:27 PM
Checking the carb spindle for wear is pretty easy. If there's any play in this bearing then it needs either a new shaft, bushing or both. I'm going to try a new shaft in the hope it gets rid of the play
Seam sealed the rear subby and primed over the seam sealer
Then sprayed it black
Used the spit frame to hang it up the the garage
Bit cold for these games - I must be mad!
Pete
#820
Posted 28 December 2014 - 05:16 PM
Nice. At least you've not got 2" of snow like us.
#821
Posted 29 December 2014 - 08:08 PM
Nice. At least you've not got 2" of snow like us.
No but it's not ideal spraying when it's so cold. I used a bit more thinners than usual as the paint was so thick.
The problem with twins carbs is, if everything isn't bang on they run out of sync which can lead to erratic idling and fueling. Tried a new spindle in the carbs and result no play whatsoever.
In the kit are bushes to fit into the throttle body if needed
Complete kit looks like this
Should keep me busy for a while building that lot up
Pete
#822
Posted 29 December 2014 - 08:33 PM
Cor, i love a clean carburettor.
#823
Posted 29 December 2014 - 10:40 PM
How are you going to finish these? I was looking at buying a polisher (upright mop) to polish mine up. Although my set have been sat on a shelf for the last 2 years.
Looks good and good news regarding the body.
#825
Posted 30 December 2014 - 09:47 PM
Much better bare then that green paint.
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