1843 replies to this topic

[Petrol]

If you have cracks in 2K paint, it's best to flat it back and respray. Cracks are caused by spraying over paint that's not fully cured.  I mentioned respecting the solvents earlier in the thread and it's good advice. You might however, be able to fill them with seam sealer.

 

 

This is how I masked the roof up - masking tape on the inside of the gutter, rolled back to join the masking tape on the polythene sheet

 

 

 

 

Close up

 

 

 

I will be using fine line tape on the final part of this paint job, it's a bit more precise and neater than masking tape.

 

 

Pete

Edited by Petrol, 09 September 2014 - 09:43 PM.

[simonwestoll]

Thanks for the advise and inspiration Pete

[Petrol]

Your welcome,

 

Any Q's, just fire away

 

Pete

[Petrol]

The Mini special wheel arches didn't fit too good. I warmed them up with a heat gun and shaped them to the panels

 

 

No screws holding it on so it's a reasonable fit

 

 

Sorted the seam trims. These are Magnum and after removing the black paint with thinners, I gave them a tweak...

 

 

and in some cases, a dose of the angle grinder with a flappy wheel to improve the fit

 

 

 

Pics shown are after zinc primer, made sure I got full coverage right to the back of the fold

 

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

[Ben_O]

Are those the arches from minisport?

[Petrol]

Yes Ben. I remember fitting a genuine Leyland set to a 73 MK3 and they didn't fit too well either

[Ben_O]

Yes Ben. I remember fitting a genuine Leyland set to a 73 MK3 and they didn't fit too well either

I have recently modified a set of those arches for another forum member. I smoothed the screw holes and seam gaps off with the intention of them being bonded on. We didn't offer them up to the car first and once modified, we noticed they didn't fit too well.

 

I shall try your heatgun method when i go back to help him next time.

 

Ben

[Mini Waco]

Pete,  As mentioned by all that have been involved with your thread, OUTSTANDING work.  I'm only just past half way (page 26) as it's taking me time to read and understand everything.  If I may, I'm curious as how you knew which measurements to be sure to record prior to cutting and disassembly?  I've seen several places where you knew your tolerance was within approx. a couple mm.  The thought and calculation on how to reassemble such that you could reach/paint all seams is brilliant.   Thank you ever so much for sharing your knowledge with us.

 

Randy

[Petrol]

Hi Mini Waco,

 

If you look on youtube, there's videos of minis being manufactured. What they did is hold the floorpan in a jig and welded everything else on. It's 1950's technology. As a result, every mini is slightly different which is why replacement panels rarely fit spot on. On a shell re-manufacture, what you do is use the shell as the jig. This means cutting the least out before welding a replacement panel in. It's important not to allow the shell to lose rigidity and twist.

 

In the haynes manual, there are some measurements to check for shell alignment, I used these when I was welding in major components like the boot floor. I also took loads of measurements like suspension mounting points before I removed structural panels. Also, to ensure everything is square, it's a good idea to measure diagonally. I did this from the floor X member (original part of the shell and not replaced) to the replacement heelboard (back bulkhead) before it was welded in.

 

Hope that helps.

 

 

Not much done recently. I've fitted the seam covers though. I used 4 clips per seam, bonded them on then seam sealed. I've been told by "those in the know" that the paint will crack. Time will tell I guess

 

 

 

Flatted the plastic arches

 

 

 

And primed them with this

 

 

 

That's all for now

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

[bluemini17]

Fantastic attention to detail !    I'm following with great excitement.

 

David

[Petrol]

Thanks David. All masked up ready for more paint. The plan is to spray a thin coat of non metallic blue on it. Once it's all one colour and shiny, I can  check for any imperfections. Then it's final paint

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pete

[Ben_O]

Getting close now mate.

 

I feel excited for you!

 

Good luck

 

Ben

[Jared Mk3]

If the quality of bodywork is anything to go by, then that paint job will look stunning! Can't wait!

[Petrol]

Thanks guys, at least it's all one colour now. I only used 1L of mixed paint to spray the outside. Shiny means it's easier to see all the imperfections. There are a few areas that need a bit of attention but it's not as bad as I was expecting. The worst bit is a pressing mark across the heritage scuttle. I have tried to take a pic but you can't see it. Might need a bit more paint to sort that bit out.

 

Looks like this now

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

[myredmini]

Thats superb. Ive seen worse come out of a booth, professionally painted and flat and polished. Looking forward to the final paint.