Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild
#616
Posted 13 June 2014 - 05:59 AM
#617
Posted 13 June 2014 - 06:41 AM
Yeh, I'd be over the moon if I could manage to get my paint like that!
Same here!
#618
Posted 13 June 2014 - 11:56 AM
#619
Posted 13 June 2014 - 01:24 PM
Not the final paint ?
nope!
He is painting it in solid blue first for protection and to get the body 100% then it's going to be re done in metallic.
Mad aint he!
#620
Posted 13 June 2014 - 09:44 PM
#621
Posted 13 June 2014 - 10:01 PM
Thanks for the kind comments
Mad aint he!
LOL, That's well documented on many forums.
It's best to spray a metallic on one colour. If you spray a metallic over a multitude of colours, it can result in shading problems. Then there's filler shrinkage - Fillers and stoppers often react when paint is applied. What happens is the solvent in the colour coat penetrates the porous primer and causes the fillers to initially swell, then shrink as everything dries out. This results in mapping lines around the filled area. Applying a coat of solid colour and leaving it for a while before a final flatting is the best way to go. Metallic basecoat is a 1K product and dries pretty fast. Applying it over a fully cured 2K solid won’t have any mapping problems as the solvents won’t penetrate to the filler / stopper.
Fitted the 5 1/2 Gallon tank. Another huge weight saving
Strap and support
This early tank has a bolt on arrangement for the fuel sender which looks like it could be difficult to source. I might be better with a later tank with the twist lock fastener. If anyone has a 5 1/2 gallon tank for sale drop me a PM
I'm impressed with the head timmy850 which has been ported and the chambers opened up. ( I got it through a contact that used to work for Downton ) The plan is to fit unleaded exhaust seats, bigger valves and balance the chambers.
Lots to do, 1000X more work than I expected but that's how these projects go.
Pete
#623
Posted 18 June 2014 - 09:09 PM
I am seriously impressed mate!
Can't believe you have never done bodywork before!
So what comes after the roof?
#624
Posted 18 June 2014 - 09:30 PM
Hi Pete, your paint and bodywork results are absolutly stunning, is there any chance you could put a few links up towards the gun/nozzle you're using and any other tips you could give ? don't know what else migth create such a great result so guess it's down to those and your ability.
Cliff
#625
Posted 18 June 2014 - 10:21 PM
I am seriously impressed mate!
Can't believe you have never done bodywork before!
So what comes after the roof?
I've done a bit of bodywork before but nothing on this scale. Welding the roof on is gonna be a challenge as most of the Heritage shell's I have seen have buckling down them. I am currently modding my spot welder and thinking of ways to reduce the problem on the roof.
Once it's on, then it's re fit the doors with the internals fitted for a final shim. I'm guessing that despite my beefed up hinges, they will drop a bit with the weight.
Hi Pete, your paint and bodywork results are absolutly stunning, is there any chance you could put a few links up towards the gun/nozzle you're using and any other tips you could give ? don't know what else migth create such a great result so guess it's down to those and your ability.
Cliff
Hi Cliff, It's not really the gun / nozzle that gives a good finish. It's more a case of applying the right amount of paint at the right viscosity.. with the right amount of time between coats. Have to say it looks better in the pics than in the "metal" There's a lot of bits in it and some of the paint has gone on dry. to be honest it's not possible to do a proper paint job in a garage. The main problems are bits and fumes - you just can't get rid of em. Think the final paint job will have to be done in a proper booth.
I used 2 guns to spray inside, I will get some pics up for you though
Pete
#626
Posted 18 June 2014 - 10:36 PM
What sort of prep work did you do for the exterior just at that stage paint wise?
I don't really know how to tackle mine as the current paint is good, it's just had a lot of panels, (whole front end, door steps, rear valance etc etc) and I'm doing a colour change, was going to sand, etch prime, and then paint on top of that
#627
Posted 19 June 2014 - 10:05 PM
If the paint is good then you only need to flat it back and paint colour on. You don't need to etch prime. Think of it as layers -
Bare metal - etch prime
Imperfections in panels - high build primer where necessary over the etch primer
Then spray the colour on
Pete
#628
Posted 24 June 2014 - 04:24 PM
its looking so bloody good!
#629
Posted 24 June 2014 - 06:09 PM
I'm impressed (again ) & looking forward to seeing the roof on.
Edited by Brams96, 24 June 2014 - 06:09 PM.
#630
Posted 27 June 2014 - 10:23 PM
Prepped under the roof, sprayed in 2K paint and flatted back. I will be sticking some soundproofing under here so a matt finish is better for adhesion
Aerial holes drilled and clamped on
Clamped like this down the sides
Used shorter tools at the front and back where the curves are tighter
Bought some brass rod off ebay and turned down to make tips for the spot welder
Welder arms modded to accept the new tips, these have been reamed to ensure a good electrical contact. There's some big amps going through here
Tips are 3mm. This will reduce the heat introduced and hopefully prevent the roof skin buckling
I'm expecting to have to do about 200 spot welds, bet my arms will be aching as the spot welder is a bit heavy.
Pete
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